The last two times I started my big block chevy, the starter didn't engage but sounded like the solenoid just spun without engaging. On the second try it engaged ok and worked fine for the rest of the day. Would it ok to just replace the solenoid or better to replace both the starter and solenoid together.
The solenoid cant 'just spin'. Take the starter apart, look closely, probably replace bushings and brushes, maybe the solenoid. All the solenoid does is move the bendix into the flywheel
So if the starter spins when I turn the key and it doesn't engage, it's the Bendix that is not working ?
The gear on the end of the starter drive uses a sprag, or one-way roller clutch, that only locks up with a load against it in one direction of rotation. If you can manually extend the drive into the drive housing you might be able to use a pair of pliers or a screwdriver to try to turn the gear in both directions. If it locks up in one direction but turns in the other the drive is OK. If the gear turns freely in both directions the sprag has failed.
This is timely for me. Mine is on sbc , but it was grinding like crazy. I put it on the lift and used a remote start ****on. Spins good, drive does come out and lock ,but the drive is not going in the flywheel {flexplate } .All the way extended and spins good. Like one gear or other is too small. I checked the drive and the gear is within .020 end to end. Fly wheel looks crisp all the way around. Thinking of grinding the housing to let it get closer .? Thank you Jack
yes, but take it off, use jumper cables to try it on the work bench. It spins fast so hold it tight. Apply power, observe the bendix, (does it go in and out?) listen (is the starter spinning too slowly?) Again, This is the time to dis***emble and inspect the components. (are the brushes, worn down? Is the shaft loose on the bushings?) If the bendix is going bad, its probably time for brushes and bushings then you will know everything is good for a long time.
Bench-testing for a bad drive is not always the acid test. I've had them do all the right stuff out of the car, in the car it was no workee at times. My best advice, have a local shop rebuild it, I like to use my own cores. I had a truck starter done for my car, converted to a hi-torque and totally gone through. I have better luck talking to the rebuilder, ask what he puts into it, it helps him to know ehat you're expecting out of it. One shop used to do my stock car starters, they would always start no matter how hot they got.
OP, next time it happens, get under it..hopefully you have an inspection cover that can come off, and rotate the flywheel back so you can see where the starter is trying to catch, it's possible you have some teeth worn off the flywheel, there's usually a few bad spots on them when this happens.
I just went through this drill, my P10 step van starter solenoid ****ed out. Purchased a replacement starter, turned out the parts store sold me the wrong starter. After installing it, I got about 6 or 7 starts out of it, then it ripped about 2 " of flex plate ring gear teeth off. I had to install a new flex plate and starter My parts guy exchanged the starter, no cost but I did have to pay for a new flex plate.. The worst of it was the R&R on the Th 350 , 2 days and $60.00 for trans Jack rental . The project turned out well so it's all good now. ........... Jack
On my SBC, the bendix isn't engaging and the starter spins. It's on my son's Jeep away at school so I can't do any more diagnostic in person. I have headers now and have heard lots of stories about heat destroying the solenoid. Would just replacing the solenoid likely fix the issue? Also, are the heat shields for solenoids any good or should I just wrap with heat insulating wrap?
That's an odd one for SBC. The way the solenoid puts power to spin the starter motor, only happens if the solenoid piston gets drawn to the very front to then make contacts hit. But, if the piston moves that far, it "should" have pushed the starter gear into the flywheel teeth. One possibility is that the fulcrum pin for the fork that shoves the gear has fallen out, or partly moved out. I can't think of anything else right now that could have happened without warnings like starter mashing the teeth for a long time, and took the teeth off the F-wheel gear. That pin is located in the aluminum "nose casting" of the starter. I am not sure if you could see it with a clear view or with a small mirror.
Thanks F&J, I'll look into the pin. We haven't had any grinding or anything - it just stopped. While I could just replace the whole unit as they're not too expensive, I feel like it's lazy not to try and get to the root of the problem.
the other common cause, is that the starter drive (the part that lots of guys mistakenly call the Bendix) is worn out. It has a one way roller clutch, and when the springs get weak, etc. it will slip. Replacing the solenoid won't fix it. You have to replace the drive, most guys these days just replace the whole starter.
As Jim said, a Bendix drive uses a wound spring to engage the drive. Commonly used in Fords on the 50's and many others. Most were replaced with solenoid activated drives. I wouldn't advise anyone going into The Zone and asking for a Bendix drive for a GM starter.
The younger help won't know what you're talking about, and the older help will know the wrong name, but since they don't sell them separately, you wont' be able to buy one.
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