Hot Rods TH350 with a Chevy 250

Mark I ended up just ordering from here in town. I'm in Whidbey Island WA. I know the shipping is kind of bull and expensive but at least is in town and if it doesn't fit they'll take it back. I ended up paying 163 out the door. The converter was 99 then I had tax and the darn 50 dollars shipping.

 

You did okay then.
Just make sure you get the same dia. flex plate as your flywheel, and that it's a dual pattern, or at least the small T350 bolt pattern. Also need the proper flex to crank and flex to converter bolts.
Kind of disappointed in the Dacco jive talk. Non l/u GM converters don't have Kevlar in them, nor do they have seals. Also most rebuilts don't the hub changed unless it's worn beyond tolerances. Dacco has so many cores that they wouldn't need to re-hub any.

 

Hey Mark, should I just get the bolts through rock auto? I'm sure they'll be cheaper. Napa wants like 20 dollars for one set. I just don't know which ones would be the correct ones.

 

Actually, a true 350 convertor would use a conventional bolt and nut arrangement. Pick up some grade 8 stuff from The Ace Place. Just long enough for a full nut , without the bolt hitting the shell.

 

Sounds easy enough if you know what bolts you need. I wouldn't know what to look for. Length, type, etc. Sorry 1st time working on something like this.

 

I don't have one in front of me either at the moment. They are 3/8-24, or 3/8 -18, about 3/4 " long.
What I would do is try a couple different lengths and then measure the best fit.
Do you have any spare bolts?
Probably wouldn't have a 6 " digital vernier caliper, huh?
Maybe go to China Freight and pick one up..Under 10 bucks.
Good luck

 

Ok thanks. I'm sure I can figure it out. I'm more worried about the next step. Fitting the ****** up there and how I'm going to run the linkage up to the stock column.

 

The only bolts I have left are the ones for my flywheel and the clutch.

 

No, I meant a can or jar of spare bolts in the garage. Surely you'd have some , if you work on old cars.
The p.p. bolts might be close...for sizing anyway, but can't be 5/16". Must be 3/8".

 

What's a good transmission fluid to use in this th350? And how much should I fill the torque converter before installing it?

 

As to the shifter... the stock Collum manual shifter 2nd to 3rd lever will work ok. I've been driving my 41 CAD since 1985 with no issues using the original manual shifter to the turbo 400 automatic. No indicator, detents or starter safety switch. Just have the foot brake on if you ain't in park.

 

Th

Thanks mrspeedyt. I will try that with my linkage arms.

 

Your convertor bolts should be 3/8 fine thread grade 8 bolts. You can get them at ACE hardware or Fastenal. We have a rural king here that has a good selection of grade 8's. I just picked up some 3/4 and 5/8 bolts for my ladder bars.

 

You know about how long they should be? And what about the flexplate bolts?

 

Advance Auto should have a set of flexplate bolts in Mr.Gasket or some other brand in their performance aisle. Same as v-8. Ask the counter person. The convertor bolts are either 3/4 inch or 1 inch , I can't remember. They may have those bolts in the help aisle. They should be bolts and nuts.

 

Unfortunately we don't have an advance auto here.

 

converter bolts are usually 5/8" long...hard to find that size, but 3/4 will work if you make dang sure they don't poke into the converter housing.

 

Good to know Squirrel.

 

And for the flexplate bolts?

 

Small block Chevy bolts are the same. You are making this way harder than you need to. Do you have an O'Reilly's or Autozone or call Summit or Jeg's and order the bolts.

 

Ok so I'm making progress here. The converter and flex plate both match. I have the bolts too. Now I need to know how much transmission fluid I will need for the transmission and how much for the converter. Looking around I found that the transmission takes 4 quarts, and the instructions that came with the converter calls for a single quart. Is this correct? And what type of fluid would be good?

 

I have the fluid. I just need to know how much to put in on both the converter and transmission.

 

dump one quart in the converter if it's dry, and then when you get the transmission in the car, put 4 quarts in it. When it's time to start the engine, get ready to dump more into the transmission. If you're not sure how full it is, check it carefully after every quart you add.

If the transmission is completely dry, it will take about 11 quarts total (including what you put in the converter).

It's pretty common on a fresh transmission to put 4 quarts in before starting the engine, then once it's running, add 4 more, then check it and gradually add the last 2-3 quarts, checking the level frequently. And only get it up to the ADD line, until you drive it and get the fluid warmed up, then it should go to the FULL HOT line.

 

Thank you so much for always answering my questions Squirrel. Well the transmission isn't rebuilt by any means. It was giving to me and I know it has fluid in right now. Once I install the ****** I will drain the old stuff and add the 4 quarts then check it from that point on.

 

that sounds like a good plan.

 

Made some progress tonight. The flexplate is mounted. The torque converter seated in the transmission pretty well. Thursday we will try to align everything. Will update later.

 

Make sure the convertor is all the way into the front pump. Or you will eat the ears off the pump when you crank it. If the convertor is tight against the flex plate when you bolt it up you do not have the convertor all the way in.

 

you can measure the distance the flexplate sticks out past the engine block, then measure how deep the converter is in past the bellhousing face. make sure the converter is in deeper than the flexplate sticks out!

 

Around and inch from the bellhousing face to the tabs, give or take about .030 should be okay.

 

Thank you guys. I will check that. I do have a good mechanic friend of mine coming over to help me tomorrow. I cross my fingers this thing will fit.