Not my first motor build, but most all motor paint in past has faded/stained and thought I'd try the Por-15 Detail cast iron paint this time around. I've used before on large body panels that were easier to 'wash off' (as per directions) but, don't want water back in the oil gallys and other nooks and cranny's. I have a steam pressure washer and can use the siphon to draw in the chemical but not sure if the Metal prep will keep flash rust off till I can put a couple coats on/let them dry before oiling the cylinders and such. I'd hate to have a beautiful looking motor with rusty insides.. OR, should I just wait til I get the whole motor built/sealed up THEN try and use the detail paint. (just called them and basically got laughed at by asking if AFTER the metal prep, would the insides get flash rust.. Would like some people to chime in who have used with good results. Otherwise, I could always just use an epoxy primer/paint it this time again. Thanks E
Motor paint is kind of iffy. But I've had good results using catalyzed acrylic enamel automotive paint, on clean, bare cast iron and sheet metal parts (oil pans, valve covers, etc). Paint after the engine is ***embled.
Metal prep will keep away flash rust. Do NOT use POR-15 to paint your engine. Just think about if you ever want to touch up or remove it. Use engine enamel from Bill Hirsch. You can brush it or spray it. It flows out really nice and doesn't fade away or burn off. Touch up is easy and gas and oil don't hurt it. This block was painted with a brush 15 years ago after ***embly. Heads and air cleaner were sprayed separately with gun.
POR 15 makes a paint strictly for engine blocks. I have used it and it has held up for me. You may be only able to get in black or red but I don't remember the color options.
302: I've learned to paint motors a lighter color (VS Caddy dark blue) to see/catch any leaks early, vs waiting for dust/dirt to cake up (getting to the point where can't see stuff far away (from fender/open hood) and seem to always forget to grab my cheaters after I'm down there already.. Or they fog up and can't see anything anyhow. Getting up and down, gets to my knees and back. Squirrel: Yeah, 'iffy' to say the least. Just was hoping to still be looking nice after about 3-5yrs instead of dull after break-in. Also, was hoping to have a dark, contrasting color on all exterior bolt heads. Maybe satin black. And don't like any of the color options that they have for engine paint. E
So, you guys that just shoot paint.. What do you use to clean the metal first? I usually use walmart brand Brake Cleaner since it doen't leave much residue and seems to help the paint 'seep' into seams/cracks. BUT, still get lifting in some areas. E
I use auto paint chemicals when I'm using auto paint. Getting all the oil off cast iron is a pain. Prep Sol type stuff will get it mostly clean, then something like enamel reducer for the final rinse. Two examples, I painted the engine in my wife's slightly off topic car with Centari about 25 years ago, it looks pretty good still. The mill in my Chevy II has only been together and painted for 5 years, and slightly under 20k miles, and the paint still looks great. Painting the bolt heads a different color looks weird to me...maybe I'm a restorer at heart?