Technical Crank, hard start, rough idle and dies, backfire through the carb

I just don't have the money to fix it or chase down the issue.

 

The oil pump drives from the distributor shaft and it couldn't fall into the pan by turning the distributor while trying to adjust the timing! Do you know anyone who is more mechanically inclined to help you sort this out? It may be the time to get a mechanic involved rather than sell it to someone for cheap that may be trying to take advantage of your lack of knowledge.

 

It's not a particular lack of knowledge, it's me just being done with it.

I may have dropped a tool behind the motor where the TC is I guess.

 

Page 3

 

@31Vicky we solved the issue lol, now we're talking about other issues!

 

OK

 

Don't get discouraged. It could be something simple. They fixed your wiring. Describe your noise a little better. Besides we have 14 pages to go.

 

Is this the same friend offering $600?

 

Is the oil pressure light staying on ????

 

when the going gets tough.........
don't give up on it yet, not a good habit to get into. stop, clean a few things up, keep doing some research and find the problem and work to solve it. it's how you approach any of life's issues.
patience, practice and perseverance.......

 

Correct! Slow down, take a step back, and breathe. I was all set to sell my "baby" (non-HAMB-friendly car) because I couldn't do catalytic/exhaust work.... within 24 hours friends directed me to *TWO* different experienced mechanics that could help me out. Problem solved, and I still have my baby!

 

Did this thing ever run enough to make the drive from mazoola to St. Louis?


There's been a myriad of easily rectified issues based on post history.

I wouldn't sell that for 600 but I'd damn sure give you $650 for it if you want a little bit more.

 

Wow.....

 

The TC (timing cover) is in front of the motor. And what tool is it? When ya set the timing you just turn the distributer a bit to the left or the right. That movement won't affect the oil pump. If ya think (or your friend does) the you're now not getting any oil to the top end. You can take off a valve cover and check for oil flow.

 

It did make it from Missoula to St. Louis with not a single issue.

He said he'd give me $1000 bucks for it cash tomorrow.

Honestly, I don't have another vehicle and I can't let this one keep breaking. I have to get to work everyday and I can't risk that by having a 56 year old truck.

I want to keep it but it's not practical.

 

It was a different friend who told me what it sounded like.

 

You are correct in that it likely isn't practical as an only vehicle.

 

If it was still equipped with points distributor and everything else was as should be, you could put your finger on the condenser and say, a new one oughta fix it, especially if any electric welding was done on the car recently. Did you pull the cap off when you worked on the plug wires? Maybe a crack opened up between towers , which a spark can follow , firing a plug on the intake stroke .

 

Or possibly, how long has this engine been dormant, if at all. Is this 454 with hydraulics lifters, it's a Longshot, but if it's not electrical, could it be that a lifters is so gummed up that it can't bleed causing the valve to not seat completely. Or maybe excessively carboned valve guides all of a sudden decided to hold a valve or two open? That used to happen on our Wisconsin on the New Holland hay bailer

 

Surely a 59 truck with a 454 has an oil pressure gauge...Well, maybe not surely.

 

I can't stress this enough -
Back to the Basics and start at square 1
Back to the Basics and start at square 1
Back to the Basics and start at square 1
Back to the Basics and start at square 1

The next thing that can't be stressed enough-

If a new problem shows up go back to the last thing you did.
If a new problem shows up go back to the last thing you did.
If a new problem shows up go back to the last thing you did.

You may have to walk backwards thru a few steps. Now according to only the info you've posted here which may or may not be complete- be methodical here.

The last thing you did was swap pick up leads & that corrected a problem but a brand new became only apparent omce it was running.

The thing you did before that was wire the truck & that created a problem of hard start, rough idle and backfire thru the carb. Also there's mention of smelling gas, running rich and oil burning accompanied with engine noises.

Can any of those conditions cause your new problem? Yes- Dumping fuel can wash down a cylinder or two and you'll burn oil, and it might make noises too. Backfire can cause damage but you didn't say if you tried to start it twice or 347 times. Twice of a carb back fire might not cause much havoc but the likelihood of damage increase 100% at 4 times, 1000% at 20. Get it?

The info you provide here help us figure out what the hell is going on or at least where to look.

 

too much timing now?