I have a 1934 Ford V8 with a 6 volt system. I tried to start a cold engine , one pop and wouldn't start. Checked and no spark . Jumped the ballast resistor and it fired up. Had continuity and .6 onthe ohm meter. Bad ballast or am I just supplying more spark to bad condenser-coil? Any help would be appreciated.
Does it have a 6 volt battery? if so, should it really have a ballast resistor? but yeah, it's rather difficult for us to tell what's going on there....
It's a stock 6 Volt battery. I realize the need for ballast , just wondering if this temp fix is hiding something else.
I may be wrong but I don't remember any 6 volt cars with ballast resistors. I say remove it and run it.
the whole reason for a ballast resistor, is to drop the voltage from 12v to around 6v, to work with the coil properly. If you have a 6v battery you need full 6v to the coil, NO ballast resistor
6V doesn't need a ballast resistor... they knock 12v down to 6v to the coil... I like to use the [double] over - under mopar style... I crimp a flat female end on each end of an 8" long wire... tie it in a big loop around the ballast wires for storage... if you blow the ballast you can plug it in line and temporarily byp*** the ballast resistor to get home...
You should check on the "Ford Barn". I'm not really up on older Fords (I'm a "shoebox" guy myself), but I don't think that is a ballast resistor, per se. IIRC, it is a device that heats up and decreases the voltage to the coil after the car is running. As I said, I'm no expert, so you should check with the guys who really know this stuff.
**************************************************************** And all the while wonder if your coil is going to make it that far. I agree that your 6v system doesn't need a ballast resistor. For those of you that do need a ballast, buy and carry an extra in your glove box. Ballast resistors can, and do, leave you stranded at unexpected times. Roger
Not to be argumentative, but step-down covertors can knock 12v to 6v, not ballast resistors. Ballast resistors will reduce resistance (Ohms) for whatever value they're designed for.
When does a 12 volt system need a ballast resister? Does it matter if the distributer is a dual point?
What is that I see between the coil and the ignition switch on the attached wiring diagram? Is that what they call a ballast resister? I don't think the 4 cylinder version had one. http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/FH_images/FH_electrical-pics/Flathead_Electrical_wiring1934.jpg Charlie Stephens
its a resistance but not a "ballast resistor" that one is reducing voltage at all times, why I dunno but would have something to do with how the ignition coil was designed
no system "needs" one its for easier starting, you have 7 volt coil and you give it 12 volts when you hit the starter to get a better spark, only when starting.
Torana68, You need to check the wiring diagram on the '34. It reduces the voltage across the coil all of the time. You are describing the way more modern cars are wired using the resistor. It surprised me when I first encountered it. Charlie Stephens
Sorry, I was a little confused by your two posts. Sounds like we are both on the same page. Charlie Stephens
I have run fords with out a ballast... coil is ok but the points won't last 30 days... also some fords ran a resistor wire instead of a ballast... pink and had resistor printed all along the wire... wire gets warm...
the early Fords used a ballast resistor even on the 6 volt systems, I think I heard that the stock coils were ment to run with 4 volts or something. Try jumping accross the resistor to start and then remove the jumper to see if it still runs. I think 4dFord is right.
Might go slightly off topic but...man those ballast resistors are *****es! I was chasing bad idle when hot for almost 2! years. I rebuilt pretty much everything and used a voltmeter to confirm that current flows through the ballast. Finally I found that the ballast resistor had gained resistance over the last 60 years. I felt like the dumbest man alive after I used the ohmmeter... Cheap fix, new 1.5 ohm ballast, idles smooth even at 420rpm in gear (I HAD to try that!). Sideeffect of my little adventure: All new engine compartment And for the topic: 6V no ballast as far as I know
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