Or call French lake auto parts as I mentioned above. owned by a Hamb member and they ship http://www.frenchlakeautoparts.com/
You can repair cast iron manifolds, here is the way I do it. Threaded carbon rod to preserve the threads,clean and clean then chamfer the edges, clamp the broken ear on with the threaded carbon rod installed , preheat then use 309L Stainless rod and TIG together, you will be surprised how easy it welds. CAUTION the weld is very hard so preserve your threads. If you have to drill it, you have to use a carbide drill and if you have to tap it , you have to go very slow and do it only about a 1/4 turn at a time, back up and another 1/4 turn. Learned this the hard way. You can use this to repair cast iron blocks that have had ears broken off. It just takes a little time and patience to make a good repair. I like this repair better than silica bronze or brazing. Hope this has been helpful. Frank
High nickle rod. A good welding supply has it in stick and Tig. Heat to 900 degrees with rose bud. Then weld away. I actually like welding cast iron. If you have high blood pressure take meds before askin the counter guy the price of the rod.
Google cast iron welding service U.S. or Canada. There are specialty cast iron repair shops in northern U.S. and might be some in Canada.
You guys gave the proper answers. I will go off the wall. Take the manifold to a plumber. Have him thread it for some black pipe. Put a ****** in there and clamp the exhaust pipe to it.
Too late for this now, but I'll p*** it on for the future. I'll be 80 in just a day or two and was taught this trick by an old man when I was about 30. He's long ago in the grave but his trick lives on. But for anybody using it, I would suggest going to the s**** yard and getting some expendable pieces to try on first. It works because an OA cutting torch will cut steel at a temp below the melting point of cast iron. And it works best in a clear hole like the ear on the manifold depicted here, where you have an open area behind the hole. Till you get really good at it, it pays to first drill a hole all the way through the broken off bolt. Mr. John didn't need that, but I always used a hole to start the process. Hole maybe 3/16" or so in diameter. After drilling, light up the torch, and adjust pressures and flame just like you were going to cut a piece of steel. Apply torch to bolt at edge of hole just like you are going to cut a piece of stell and hit it with the oxygen lever when the temp is right and the steel from the bolt will be burned away leaving the cast iron. "Wash" around the edges of your drilled hole till the steel is all gone, being careful not to heat to point of melting the cast iron. Mr. John could do the job to the point you could actually screw another bolt in with any problem, but I almost always had to chase out the ************* with a tap. Try it sometime, but as I suggested start on an expendable part
This works because the stud heats quickly and the heat doesn't transfer easily across the threaded gap to the housing. Remember the housing is large and it takes a while to heat up. Especially with rusted threads. The trick is to do it quickly before the whole piece gets hot enough to cut. It works on steel studs in steel housings for the same reason. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
My favorite method of removing broken studs is to take a hex nut slightly larger than the broken stud thread size and set it in place and TIG weld thru the hole to the top of the stud. Then spin it out as soon as the weld solidifies. This gives you something to put a wrench on and the heat breaks loose the rusted threads. You can add oil to it while hot and reheat if necessary but usually not needed For repair, I would TIG weld the ear back on with silicon bronze. (Everdur) It has a strength over 50,000 psi and will hold no problem. You won't get a lot of heat with TIG either. The bronze works very well since the excess carbon in the cast iron won't harden it and the bronze will yield a little as it cools to relieve the stress in the cast. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
This may sound Mickey Mouse, but how about brazing the broken parts back on, retap the hole and get a stud with long threads, thread it through and let an inch or so protrude out the top and then braze that part of the stud to the manifold. (?)
Iv'e had good luck with just mig welding a broken flange like yours. I also repaired a hairline crack the same way and it held up until I sold the car a few years later.
I agree about NOT BRAZING, I personally weld a washer that will fit OVER the stub, then I weld a larger nut to the washer "off center" then I heat manifold, sometimes I put water on large nut, and "tap" anywhere close on the manifold, while ***istant backs it out : large nut, washer, and stub.
Can't tell from the picture if it's intake or exhaust . With intake br*** works well. With exhaust temperature is a factor exhaust manifolds get hot to the point where br*** can lose it's strength. Exhaust manifolds can glow red.
There was a thread on here in just the last day or two about welding cast iron with a MIG. A lot of guys seem to be doing it with a lot of success. You might look that one up.
Zane- I like the soot trick, hadn't heard of that. From the amount of grunge on my flattie, it had been repaired a long time. I didn't even know until I cleaned it up for rebuild/ hop-up. It looked good, so I just left it. It's still doing fine.
When it comes to repairing cast iron manifolds I tend to shy away from brazing as its not as strong or as durable as welding . A "good" welder not some backyard hack will be able to weld it without any issue It can be stick welded using NOMA-CAST or NI-99 or NI55 and or Tig welded also. I've had a few iron Harley cylinder heads repaired and the guy used a Tig torch as it's much more precise. I know some guys like to preheat CI but my guy told me it wasn't necessary but what was important was thoroughly cleaning because if the high carbon content of the CI
Sometimes it is, sometimes less so. The thing is, cast iron cracks easily under tension. If the weld is in a place that can shrink freely without causing tension anywhere in the metal there may be no need for preheating. On the other hand, if the weld is surrounded by metal that would prevent the weld from shrinking as it cools down there would be tension and probably cracks if the area or entire part isn't preheated (so the weld shrinks along with the surronding metal as it all cools down together).
Silicon bronze has a 60,000 psi yield strength. Cast iron is 40,000 psi. Brazing is stronger than the cast iron you are "fixing".
We have a few straight 8 manifolds at the Shop. Give my Brother a shout to see if one will work. 781.223.six thousand
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