Technical Thoughts on rebuilding my 28 Roadster pick up

Been working on this for about ten months. 28 with a model B engine. Miller/Cragar head.
Looking for educated thoughts on the best way to rebuild.
Old school complete rebuild with babbit or with new inserts. The engine was rebuilt around 35 years ago and never run. It has all new internals but one of the slingers has been removed.
It runs like a champ but leaks like the Valdez.


Any input would be much appreciated.





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So what would you do differently to keep it from leaking? Can't you just do that now? Why rebuild when it runs fine and is fresh?

 

It’s pissing oil. Hate to sound blunt but I’m talking a steady stream after running for just a few minutes.

That’s what I’m asking. It’s the real main bearing.


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Have exactly the set up you have and after a new pan gasket, rope/cork seals and side plate gasket, leaks disappeared. Used black permatex on everything. Also new lock washers on pan and side plate.

 

Probably the missing slinger but by any chance did you leave out the gasket that goes between the block and the flywheel housing?

Charlie Stephens

 

It is missing one slinger. It had the wrong pan. Changed the pan, gasket and I’m not sure about the one between. It’s gushing out the hole at the base of the flywheel housing.


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there are several different kits to help that now I use the one with the chev oilseal in it also it does not hurt to machine a small amount off the camshaft and fit a frost plug behind the cam at the back of the engine check that the sump flange is true as many have been over tightened on a too thick gasket there are new kits for the front of the crank too

 

I’ve heard that the Chevy seal works for awhile but eventually fails. I’ve also been told that it can new inserts machined into the rear. I obviously am not educated about these problems. I do know that I want to be able to drive this while working on another project.
That’s my dilemma right there. Which way do I go?


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In your picture I see a gap between the shims and crank. When assembling I’ve been taught the shims must be squared up and be pushed in and touching the crank. Also put a dab of sealant in the corner where the shim meets the rope seal.


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I would plastigauge the mains, your leak is the rear main. Also make sure the drain tube is open and not screwed in too far or it will be blocked. There shouldn't be any sealer on the shims, that will change the clearance.

 

what is the end play in the crankshaft?