I just picked up this model T frame, to build a speedster. I was thinking of reversing the front crossmember to low the front of the car. Has anybody here done this? And what is the easiest way to do it? Reversing the front crossmember Ore reversing the rear and turning the frame. Would love some input on this
How about you just turn the frame over and show us how you propose to mount the spring into an upside down crossmember? I can't picture it. I'd suggest looking at old pics of real vintage T racers and copying what they did. I doubt any of them just turned the front crossmember over.
are you planning to use the T motor too? if so, you loose the front motor mount when doing this. one method was to move the cross member back 2", re rivet, and then add a straight cross member where the original was for the spring mount. this will change the drive shaft length, how ever most of the real track racers were shortened to about 80" . if using the stock body, look up carl ore's car(spelling?) the guy who drove his T to the salt flats to race all thru the 50's. don lang has the car. it used a heavy strap, like 1/2 "x 2" bolted on the frame sides about 4" back on each side, tight bend to go across the front with a 90 degree twist to mount the spring on. lots of good period correct info in the book " model Ts in speed and sport" , most dealers carry it.
So I did not think it through haha, I will have to manufacture an other front crossmember. Was thinking about doing it like this.
the photo you show they have a stock cross member about 6" back for a motor mount. you can see the side of it. this method was used for sure, but you see it will limit the axle travel, and change drive line length.
looking again, i see the rear has been Z'd, so my guess is they flipped the frame upside down and reatatched the Z'd rear, then add a second T front cross member for the motor mount, shorten drive shaft and torque tube , stand back and smile at your new chassis!
for some entertainment http://s1073.photobucket.com/user/Tspeedsters/library/speedster brass?sort=3&page=1 and my favorite clip
In Mamel's picture of the white T the front cross member is upside down and has been changes from the stock location on the frame. To just turn the frame up side down a new spring would have to be built with a very high arch. That is an A/ B motor and if you use a B motor mount it is wide enough to almost just bolt to the frame. Must pay attention to engine height and angle and also torque angle. Don't want the torque tube running down hill! Most of the cars were just about level (maybe a "rubber rake) and not as low as we like to see them today. A quick change will lower the rear of the torque tube about 4 '' allowing the car to be built lower. Good luck!
heres how they get they're model t kicks in canada http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/599638/623321.html?1458661872
Your pic looks like a T crossmember, but it has been narrowed along with the frame. And not a lot of clearance between the frame and axle now. Looks cool, but probably a very rough ride. Dirt tracks aren't smooth.
heres the car with the twisted strap front spring mount i was thinking of earlier. not karl orr, he was the early LA speed shop guy. this is multy aldrich's daily driver/racer. a brief story here http://theoldmotor.com/?p=68031
Mamel, That looks like a good frame you have, it is a 1926-27 with the later fender brackets that attach to the front crossmember, makes flipping it a bit harder than the 1925 and older frames. The above photo shows a T dirt car with an extra front crossmember flipped and added for extra strength I guess. Car has underslung brackets and spring perches flipped Bob
should be a 27 frame with wire wheels, and should have a serial number on the right rail about center. they were a little thicker than early frames too
I flipped my front cross member and stepped the frame 9" in the rear I used part of another T frame for the step piece and did the front axle suicide style, the tie rod will be behind, it gives me a 105" wheel base....the frame and springs are T and the front and rear axles are A it will be Volvo powered......... Sent from my QTASUN1 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Okay great now Isn't the torque tube of a stock model A running down hill? What would be this quick change to lower the torque tube? I'm also wondering how much I van lower the rear without Z-ing the frame.
Thanks alot! I did not know what year frame this T was. I looked like this was already some kind of the speedster in the past. Found this handbrake support on the left side.
one, we dont know what your goal is, so its hard to give advise. two, the quick change has the drive shaft entering the diff housing at the bottom, not at the center like all ford banjo rears, 3 the stock model A drive shaft is running down hill towards the rear end, not the tranny. as you lower the frame, from model T's to 48 ( all closed drive shaft ) you get to a point (level )where the rear end oil will flow to the front. you can lower the rear by rotating the outside cast housing 1/4 turn. much more to that story, but we need to know what your trying to build first
Okay, so I am building a speedster with this model T frame but with A Running gear. It doesn't have to be really low, I just like the look with the reversed front crossmember but still have to see how low I can het the back with out cutting into the frame. I have seen a couple of pictures where they rotated the rear end outside castings but could see much in detail how they did it. Is there maybe a thread on here? But then I have to shorten the driveshaft some more.. Also looking for some tips how to do tackle this haha. This is the body that would go on this T frame.
looks like mr rudstude is having some fun in the back yard!, mamel, rotating the ends of the housing is for model T rears, mainly because of the T brake design it works. if you are using an A motor & trans, either stock or hydraulic brakes will make that trick very confusing. using a v8 rear end makes the drive shaft shortening easier than the A due to the tapered and weak back end where the pinion gear goes on. lots of drive shaft threads here, but basically you turn down the A drive shaft to fit inside the v8 coupler and weld it. some guys get away with back yard methods to do the torque tube at home, but really a lathe does a nice job. good luck, keep us posted!
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