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Projects Kurt’s Puddle Jumper - 1930 Model A Extended-Cab Pickup Build

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by rgclouse, Aug 12, 2016.

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  1. rgclouse
    Joined: Apr 30, 2014
    Posts: 362

    rgclouse
    Member

    Good question. Since it does not look like I’m going to suddenly acquire a new rear clip to make it into the coupe I really want, I am going to put the pickup bed back in for now so I can get it on the road in my lifetime. I received this very suggestion back in Sept 2014 when I first posted on H.A.M.B.
    truck2_zps171dbcb5.jpg

    GAGA4TOYZ actually did a Photoshop of it with a shortened bed. Thank you again GAGA4TOYZ. Not sure exactly how it will look fenderless and channeled, but we will see. I’m planning on shortening the bed to about 6 inches past the old rear of the body.
     
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  2. rgclouse
    Joined: Apr 30, 2014
    Posts: 362

    rgclouse
    Member

    In looking over what I had posted, I realized I left out a few facts and figures.
    127 041116 Frame back right side up and Gibbsed.jpg
    I’m trying to recreate from about 60 year old memories some of how my buddies roadster was done. I remember the front and rear Z’d frame, but not the exact measurements.

    I built the rear of the frame from 2 x 4 x .120 rectangular tubing. The wheelbase is stretched 2.5” to minimize firewall tunneling. The rear Z is 15” at 60 degrees. The front Z is 7” at 45 degrees. The rear crossmember is also 2 x 4 x .120. The 2 x 2 crossmember at the base of the rear Z is only temporary.
     
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  3. Nice work! Don't forget those fish plates.
     
    Stogy likes this.
  4. FalconFixer
    Joined: Aug 2, 2015
    Posts: 1

    FalconFixer

    Just think when you get the bed back on you can tell everyone you have the ranchero prototype.
     
    Stogy likes this.
  5. rgclouse
    Joined: Apr 30, 2014
    Posts: 362

    rgclouse
    Member

    Did you ever have great plans for what you were going to get done on a project, lay in bed the night before planning it all out. Then the next day just not able to get going.

    I planned to get a lot more done today, but at least got to see what it will look like with wheels and tires. Got them mounted yesterday. Cleaned them up and hung them this morning. These are just roll around tires, no flames please for radials.
    165 090316 Roll around tires mounted.jpg

    When I say hung, I mean literally. If you notice the front wheel with a great deal of negative camber, its because it is hanging from one thread on one wheel stud. Hard to mount 4 ¾ wheels on 5 ½ hubs.

    I plan on replacing the original Model A spindles and hubs but for now plan to redrill them to 4 ¾ as soon as a put together a press to press out the old studs.
    165 090316 Roll around tires mounted.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

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  6. rgclouse
    Joined: Apr 30, 2014
    Posts: 362

    rgclouse
    Member

    Sorry for the duplicate picture.

    Weather finally turned again and got a little done between trips taking the wife to physical therapy.

    Built a poor mans press to remove drums from hubs and some other pressing needs (pun). This proves I’m cheap. Could of gotten a 6 ton from HF for $110, but I had to build one myself. I have had this channel iron for 31 years since building a bike rack for the back of our 2nd MH.
    168 091016 Poor mans press to remove drums from hubs.JPG

    Still need to buy bolts and drill more holes to make it more general use, but it worked to remove the wheel studs and the hub from the drum.

    Why am I doing this? Again because I’m too cheap. I plan to replace the front spindles and hubs, but want to mount the 4 ¾ inch wheels to make it a roller.

    Made a template to mark the 4 ¾ lug spacing.
    170 091016 Template to mark 4.75 inch lug spacing.JPG

    Marked the lug spacing on the hub, but not enough flat surface to keep the drill from walking. Yes, I tried.
    171 091016 Hub marked but not enough flat surface to keep drill from walking.JPG

    Slept on it for a day or two. Was ready to bite the bullet and order a Speedway spindle, hub, and disc brake kit for $629, but decided to try one more thing. I welded enough buildup on the inside edge to give more flat surface.
    172 091316 Welded on more surface area.JPG

    Ground it down. Marked it again. Much better.


    174 091316 Hub remarked, much better.JPG

    Now to setup a jig on the drill press. Searched garage for right size socket, pipe, or tube to fit the inside of the hub. Doesn’t it always happen that you have something larger or smaller but not the right size. I finally found a 2 inch hole saw that was perfect.
    175 091316 Jig to hold hub attached to drill press.JPG 176 091316 2 inch hole saw perfect size.JPG

    Drill, turn, drill, turn, … Worked great.

    178 091316 Drill, turn, drill, turn, ....JPG

    Tap the holes. Yes, that is only a 3/8 inch tap, but that’s enough to hold the wheels on for now. I don’t have a 7/16 inch tap anyhow.
    179 091316 Tap the holes.JPG


    Kind of hokey, with bolts through lug nuts, but it works to make it a roller. Still need to go buy more bolts.

    181 091316 Hokey, but works to make it a roller.JPG 182 091316 Hokey, but works to make it a roller.JPG

    Now just need to do the other wheel.
     
  7. rgclouse
    Joined: Apr 30, 2014
    Posts: 362

    rgclouse
    Member

    Got the other front hub/drum separated, hub welded, marked, drilled, tapped, and wheel hung. Almost a roller. On to the back wheels.
    183 091416 Both front hubs done and wheels mounted.JPG

    Real scut work today. Removed rear cover, axel C clips, rear axels and rear brakes. Now can get access to finish welding spring hangers on axel. Pressed out broken wheel stud. Quit when it got to 90 in the garage with 70 degree dew point.
    184 091516 Removed rear axel cover and C clips to remove axels.JPG 188 091516 Right rear brake and backing plate removed.JPG

    Just as I’m writing this, FedEx delivered the steel for the ladder bars. Now if the weather would just cooperate.
     
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  8. rgclouse
    Joined: Apr 30, 2014
    Posts: 362

    rgclouse
    Member

    Got started on ladder bars. Wasted a day trying to come up with a jig to hold the mounting plates on the axel housing at 18 degrees and the bolt hole plumb. I wont even show my first attempt. As usual, slept on it and came up with a better idea.

    I mounted the plates to a piece of OSB that was square and sat on the top of my frame table. That made them plumb. I then cut a piece of 2x6 at an 18 degree angle. That holds the OSB at the right angle. Still need to grind the edges of the brackets to fit tighter because of the 18 degree angle. Also need to cleanup the housing before welding.
    DSCN1313.JPG

    I built a jig to hold the ladder bar tubes to drill them in the drill press.
    DSCN1318.JPG

    Worked good got all 4 tubes drilled. Only problem was I had to take it off the drill press each time to get the tube out of the jig and put in the next. Then reinstall it and adjust till it was plumb and centered. Took about 15 minutes to setup and 30 seconds to drill.

    Got 3 of 4 tubes tapped. (Got too hot in the garage). Had to build a tap wrench since I didn’t want to spend $80 for one. Every cheaper one had bad reviews like “it broke on the first use”. Half a HF socket adapter welded to 14 inches of ¾ inch rod. 3/8 socket drive fits perfect on the 5/8 inch tap.

    I tapped about ¾ inch with a starter tap and finished with a plug tap.
    DSCN1319.JPG

    DSCN1323.JPG

    Finish the 4th tube tomorrow.
     
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  9. rgclouse
    Joined: Apr 30, 2014
    Posts: 362

    rgclouse
    Member

    Got the 4th tube tapped yesterday. Start on the bushing ends today and hopefully get the brackets fitted and welded.
     
  10. AHotRod
    Joined: Jul 27, 2001
    Posts: 12,271

    AHotRod
    Member

    Your moving along pretty good.... keep us posted.
     
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  11. rgclouse
    Joined: Apr 30, 2014
    Posts: 362

    rgclouse
    Member

    Well, so much for great plans. Took a week to get done what I expected to do the next day. Too many chores around the house.

    Finally got the ladder bar brackets fitted and tack welded on the housing, and bars hung.
    092216 Ladder bar brakets tacked on axel housing and bars attached.JPG

    Cut center crossmember and started marking front brackets and fitting front end of ladder bars.
    092516 Continued fitting front ladder bar bracket.JPG


    I got tired of the axel housing moving so that each measurement of the ladder bar length came out different. Tack welded the housing to the frame table with a couple of 3x3 tubes left from building the frame table. Now the measurements stayed consistent.
    092616 Tired of axel housing moving so tacked to frame table DSCN1331.JPG

    I want the middle crossmember to be removable, so cutout end plates. One of the four holes I can drill thru the 2x4 tube and weld in a crush tube. The other 3 do not have room due to the body mounts so I will have to weld in weld nuts.
    092716 Crossmember end plates cut, fitted, and drilled.JPG

    Front ladder bar brackets fitted and tack welded on crossmember and tubes fitted and ready to weld.
    092716 Ladder bars almost ready for welding.JPG

    Well that’s where it will sit for 2 weeks. Heading up to MN tomorrow for the wife to have more medical tests.
     
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  12. rgclouse
    Joined: Apr 30, 2014
    Posts: 362

    rgclouse
    Member

    Well it sat for more than 2 weeks. It was exactly a year later when I got in the garage on Saturday to resume work. All I can say is life got in the way.

    While in MN last October for the wife’s medical tests, I fell in our MH and dislocated my ring finger on my left hand. That kept me out of action for a couple of months, since I’m left handed. Next I had to spend several months converting our master bath to a walk-in shower.

    Spring chores followed by another 6 week trip to MN and a family reunion in DC took us to August. Next the bionic woman had her second shoulder replaced. Still have to run her to physical therapy twice a week, but it finally has cooled off enough here to actual get out and work.

    First order of business on Sat was to replace the casters on my welding cart. I went too cheap the first go round. I went cheap again by using the casters from our discarded CharBroil Grill (innards all rusted out).

    Sunday I got back to work on the ladder bars. First I had to cleanup the surface rust that developed in one year. I neglected to Gibbs them last fall. I then decided to put a kickup or dogleg near the back to lower the top bar for floor clearance.

    216 100117 Kickup added to ladder bars 20171001_121731.jpg Not a lot but at least some forward progress.
     
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  13. rgclouse
    Joined: Apr 30, 2014
    Posts: 362

    rgclouse
    Member

    Got another half day in today. Finished fitting and initial welding left ladder bar. Welds look like s@#$. Forgot to turn the gas on. Have to grind off a bunch and reweld.
    217 100417 left ladder bar assembled 20171004_120512.jpg
    Right side needs a bit more fitting and the web plate cut and drilled.
     
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  14. tfeverfred
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 15,788

    tfeverfred
    Member Emeritus

    Nice build thread. VERY detailed.
     
  15. rgclouse
    Joined: Apr 30, 2014
    Posts: 362

    rgclouse
    Member

    Well took 2 weeks off for an annual trip to Dega. Only there 3 days, but it took a week before and after to get the MH ready and ready for the winter.

    Got a couple of days work in this week. Finished the right ladder bar. Got the end plates welded on the corssmember and holes drilled for mounting it to the frame. One hole on each side I could drill through the frame and bolt through. The others were blocked by body braces under the door sill, so I had to drill 5/8 inch holes on the inside of the frame rail and weld in nuts. 218 102417 Both ladder bars finished and installed .jpg 219 102417 Both ladder bars done and installed.jpg 220 102617 Crossmember end plates welded and bolted to frame rails.jpg
     
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  16. rgclouse
    Joined: Apr 30, 2014
    Posts: 362

    rgclouse
    Member

    Well the next step is to finish welding the ladder bar mounts to the rear end housing. Need to pull the body off the frame to get access, so decided I should finish some of the body mounts over the rear zee.
    221 103017 Body mounts fitted on Zeed Frame.jpg 222 103117 Upper body mounts welded and hidden parts primered.jpg 223 110217 Right upper body mount completed.JPG
    Spent about 3 days being finicky fitting the mounts and getting them welded.

    Today it was time to pull off the body. Working on this project is supposed to be Fun. Today was anything but fun. Very humid with fog when I went out to the garage.

    Found with the frame sitting on blocks on the frame table I could not lift it high enough to clear the frame. Funny, I had the chain hoist hanging from the same place when I installed the body the first time, but now it would hit the garage door before I got it high enough. OK, relocate where the chain hoist is hanging by 4 feet. Had to go up in the attic of the garage to move the hanger. Very hot and humid up there.

    OK, chain hoist moved and start to lift body. Not moving on the drivers side rear. In welding the body mounts together while sitting on the frame rail at the top of the zee, I apparently got too much penetration. Body mount was welded to the frame rail. Get out metal chisels, hammers, and cutoff wheel and cutoff the weld. Pound, pound, pound and the body mount finally popped free.

    225 110417 Body back off of frame.JPG 226 110417 Body off of frame to finish welding ladder bar mounts.JPG
    Got the body lifted and placed on the cart. I’m sweating like crazy. Enough FUN for today.
     
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  17. rgclouse
    Joined: Apr 30, 2014
    Posts: 362

    rgclouse
    Member

    Finished welding ladder bar and spring brackets on the rear housing. I will not post pictures since I’m not proud of my welds appearance. Worked on this 3 days this week since I did not want to get much heat in the housing.

    While waiting for the welds to cool, I worked on welding 3/8 inch nuts in the frame to secure the body. Drill a 3/8 inch hole, enlarge to 5/8, drive a nut in place, and weld. Grind it relatively smooth.
    227 110917 Body mount nuts ready to weld.jpg 228 110917 Body mount nuts welded and ground.jpg 229 110917 Body mount nut welded and ground.jpg
    Next up remount the rear axle and install the spring.
     
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  18. rgclouse
    Joined: Apr 30, 2014
    Posts: 362

    rgclouse
    Member

    Well I didn't get the rear axle mounted yet, but I did get the ends cleaned up and painted to keep down the surface rust.
    230 111117 Rear end housing ends cleaned up and painted DSCN1544.JPG

    231 111117 Rear end housing end cleaned up and painted DSCN1547.JPG

    Got around to welding the rear cross member to the frame rails. Not perfect, but this one I'm not ashamed to post. Now need to makeup some gussets.
    232 111117 Rear crossmember welded in place DSCN1545.JPG
     
  19. woodbutcher
    Joined: Apr 25, 2012
    Posts: 3,309

    woodbutcher
    Member

    :D Looking good sir.Hope the wife is doing well.Please keep us posted as you are able.
    Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
    Leo
     
  20. chevy54man
    Joined: Feb 7, 2013
    Posts: 1,683

    chevy54man
    Member
    from NC

    Great work, what a great project! Hope your wife is doing better, best to you and yours!
     
  21. Nailhead A-V8
    Joined: Jun 11, 2012
    Posts: 1,378

    Nailhead A-V8
    Member

    starting to look great! should be lots of fun.....looks like a nice model A truck bed seems a shame to cut it up for something you don't really want anyway....check the swap meets etc. i'm sure a pair of rough 1/4s and trunk lid will turn up they're usually rotted at the bottom and you only need the tops....any of you fella hambs got some kickin' around? maybe you'll even get someone to trade you for the box
     
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  22. rgclouse
    Joined: Apr 30, 2014
    Posts: 362

    rgclouse
    Member

    Woodbutcher and Chevy54man, thank you for the comments. Wife is doing great. Still going to physical therapy after shoulder replacement.

    Nailhead A-V8, I’m starting to think that making it an extended cab pickup would be different. Someone suggested it would be a Ranchero Prototype. Hope to have it sitting on its wheels again soon and try hanging the pickup bed and see how it looks.

    Got 2 days in a row of working on it. Cut and fitted gussets for the rear crossmember.
    234 111317 Gussets fitted for rear crossmember.JPG
    Cut and fitted 8 fishplates for the butt welded joints in the frame. Still need to cut the corners off and round 4 of them.
    235 111317 First fishplate cut and fitted DSCN1551.JPG 236 111417 Eight fishplated cut and fitted DSCN1553.JPG
    Cut and fitted the boxing plate for the left front. All told, used 4 cutoff wheels.
    237 111417 Left front boxing plate cut and fitted DSCN1555.JPG
     
  23. rgclouse
    Joined: Apr 30, 2014
    Posts: 362

    rgclouse
    Member

    Re-enter after the crash.
    Cut and fitted right side boxing plate.
    238 111617 Pass side boxing plate cut and fitted DSCN1556.JPG
    Got all fishplates fitted.
    239 111617 All Fish plates fitted.JPG
    Welded gussets on rear crossmember. (Have to remember to weld the bottom side when I next turn the frame over.)
    240 111617 Gussets welded for rear crossmember.JPG
     
  24. rgclouse
    Joined: Apr 30, 2014
    Posts: 362

    rgclouse
    Member

    Sprayed weld thru primer on backside of boxing plates and inside frame rails. Boxing plates tacked in place and welded in the rear.
    242 111717 Sprayed inside of boxing plates and frame rails DSCN1563.JPG 245 111717 Boxing plate tacked and front fishplates part welded DSCN1567.JPG 246 111717 Boxing plate tacked and front fishplates part welded DSCN1567DSCN1568.JPG
    Sprayed weld thru primer on backside of fishplates and where fishplates will be on the frame rails. Front fishplates tacked in place and partially welded. Ran out of welding wire. Not bad, first 10 lb roll I bought when I got the new welder a little over 2 years ago.

    243 111717 Sprayed weld thru primer were fishplates will be DSCN1564.JPG 244 111717 Sprayed weld thru primer where will be covered DSCN1565.JPG
     
  25. rgclouse
    Joined: Apr 30, 2014
    Posts: 362

    rgclouse
    Member

    Got a spoll of welding wire. Got all the fishplates welded on and stitch welded the bottom edge of the boxing plates. Need to turn over the frame now to weld the top edge and bottom of the fishplates. Not enough different to see so no pics today.
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2017
  26. rgclouse
    Joined: Apr 30, 2014
    Posts: 362

    rgclouse
    Member

    Turned frame over to weld underside of fishplates, top of boxing plates, bottom side of rear crossmember and gussets. Thankfully I have a chain hoist. Got every thing welded and ground. Gave the underside a good coating of Gibbs while upside down.
    251 112117 Frame turned over and all welding on bottom done DSCN1573.JPG
    Turned frame back right side up and reinstalled front end. Next up reinstall the rear end.
    252 112117 Frame back right side up and front end reinstalled DSCN1574.JPG

    Hope everyone on H.A.M.B. has a Happy Thanksgiving.
     
  27. rgclouse
    Joined: Apr 30, 2014
    Posts: 362

    rgclouse
    Member

    Well it took 3 days, but I finally got accomplished what I wanted to get done on black Friday. Rearend, spring, and ladder bars are reinstalled.
    254 112417 Rearend reassembled DSCN1576.JPG
    Cleaned up the back of the rear end, backing plates, and axels got them painted.

    Installed the backing plates, axels, retaining clips, and rear housing cover (got to pull them again and replace axel seals, I saw one was bad when installing axel). Mounted the rear wheels.
    257 112617 Rearend, backing plates, axels & wheels reassembled DSCN1579.JPG
    Stopped at TS the AM and got some more chain. Ready to lift and lower chassis to the floor tomorrow.
    258 112617 Chassis ready to lift and lower to the floor  DSCN1580.JPG
     
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  28. rgclouse
    Joined: Apr 30, 2014
    Posts: 362

    rgclouse
    Member

    Lifted chassis off frame table and lowered it to the floor. Took 3 tries to find center of balance. Rolled it outside so I could move the body over under the hoist. Of course I took some pictures while it was outside.
    259 112717 Chassis lifting off of frame table DSCN1581.JPG 261 112717 Rolling chassis  rolled outside DSCN1584.JPG
    Lifted the body off the body cart, moved the cart, rolled the chassis back inside under the body. Lowered the body back on the chassis and rolled it outside for some pictures. I guess I can say “it’s a Roller”.
    263 112717 Body on frame rolled outside DSCN1586.JPG
    Stance is a little off. I was shooting for the frame being 5-6 inches off the ground. Its currently 8-8.5 inches, but no engine and trans yet. Should be close.
     
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  29. rgclouse
    Joined: Apr 30, 2014
    Posts: 362

    rgclouse
    Member

    Yesterday, retrieved pickup bed from behind the garage.
    268 113017 Retrieved pickup bed from outback DSCN1592.JPG

    Worst rot under tailgate. Some fab work to do since I’m not going to pay $250 for a replacement.
    269 113017 Worst under tailgate DSCN1593.JPG
    First thing disassembled as the tailgate. Seems to be in good shape.
    271 113017 First thing off was tailgate DSCN1595.JPG

    Bed totally disassembled.
    272 113017 All disassembled DSCN1596.JPG
    I cut the sides of the bed off at 38 inches. Think I want 32-36, but didn’t want to take too much on the first go. Clamped the sides in place and hung the tailgate. I need to play with the height a bit. I want the bead to align with the cab.
    274 113017 Cutoff sides @ 38 inches to have a look see DSCN1598.JPG 275 113017 Cutoff sides @ 38 inches to have a look see DSCN1599.JPG 276 113017 Cutoff sides @ 38 inches to have a look see DSCN1600.JPG
    So what do you think? I think I need to take at least 4 inches off.

    Is it possible to edit the title of a thread? I think I need to change it to:
    KURT’S PUDDLE JUMPER - 1930 MODEL A Extend Cap Pickup BUILD
     
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  30. Dadio 56
    Joined: Jul 17, 2015
    Posts: 27

    Dadio 56
    Member

    When selecting a trans, consider where the shift mechanism will end up relative to your seating plan. Extending the frame up front will make this easier.
     

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