Hi, This may sound like a stupid question BUT What is the order of doing body work? I have striped the body to bare metal, done some lead filling and now what. Do I prime first and then skim with Bondo or the opposite? Thank you. Bruce/CT
Two schools of thought on that subject. You will get different reasons for each. You are in CT. I would get some type of cover on the bare metal as quick as possible. Epoxy primer or dtm type primer (direct to metal). Then the next dilemma is to apply body putty over the primer or grind the spots you work and apply to bare. There are good arguments each way.
There are good arguments to doing it either way. That being if sealed with an epoxy primer the chance of moisture getting to the metal is lessened. If you put filler on bare metal and it gets a chip on a corner or edge it can rust. Some say polyester (filler) doesn’t stick well to epoxy. I’ve done it both ways. Personally I would seal it with an epoxy and then sand the areas down well that need filler. That way if it takes awhile to do the body work no rust will start. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Your very helpful reply calls me to suggest you should supply the needed beers. Bring alot as I'm not a cheap drunk
prime and skim with bondo? wouldn't it be better to find out where the dents are first? prime, guide coat and block with assorted sanding boards. work the metal in the bad spots. then repeat.
If you want to do it the modern way, you put epoxy primer on it, then filler. If you want to do it the traditional way, you put filler on it, then primer/surfacer. I'm old fashioned. Most guys who do bodywork these days, aren't. Either way will work.
If you have the body stripped to bare metal, I would want to at least get something on the body to protect it from flash rust. I would re-strip any area that needs repair work, weld in patches as needed, then apply the filler over the bare metal repairs. Please don't use the cheapest Bondo brand filler, spend some money and buy better filler. Gene
Since we're individuals and not production shops, it makes sense to get everything in primer, then work the filler.
Just finishing up a car that was ground with a 36 grit grinder and primed and then the body work was done. It had cracks everywhere in the paint where the body work shrank and cracked the paint. I had to restrip the car and D/A the edges of the grind marks with 80 and then 180 before I could even start on the bodywork. This car had filler over every inch of the car . It now has about one tenth of the body filler in it that was in it before. We blocked and guide coated the 2k primer 4 times before I was totally satisfied that there are no waves or ripples in the body work before the first coat of base went on the car. We put filler over bare metal and then primer sealer. Old school and have a waiting list for work. I like dustless blasting for stripping a car. They put a anti- rust solution on that gives me time before flash rust starts, and it starts quick down in Florida.
I have been thinking about this as I do my 40. I agree, old school vs new school. I am old, don't know any better so, I blasted the car bare, did all the metal repair and then the filler work. In the next week or so, I will be putting the bare metal primer over the whole car, then the fill coat, sand that shit off, seal coat, color & clear. Funny part on this job, the only rust that has appeared while setting, is on the new steel in the floor boards, all the OEM Chevy steel has not rusted. The body was sand blasted, the new floor was not. It may not be proper by new standards, but it is the way I have always done it. A lot of my old cars / paint jobs still running around here, some 30 years old and still holding up well. I am in Kansas (don't like the weather, wait a few minutes), but I keep my shop warm and dry, rust does not appear for months, if not years. This project has been bare for at least a year. I am not a professional painter, just a long time car guy that is too cheap to pay someone else. So this advise is worth what you paid. .00
If you do the filler work first make sure that you primer /seal is compatible to be shot over filler. And if you primer/seal first then filler make sure the primer /sealer is compatible for filler over it.
I do it both ways, depending on the job. Although over lead filler, I like to put some epoxy over it, if it needs a little filler to glaze to be perfect.
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