I'm going to be doing a color change on my 65 Dodge van which means I need to paint the inside walls, ceiling, dash, etc. Is there a no-sand primer I can paint over the original inside paint that wont require wet sanding before top coating? The thought of trying to wet sand the inside of the van sounds really painful. I'm just doing a single stage urethane.
You can use a sealer but they are usually wet on wet so you have a window within which you have to spray your top coat. Usually no longer than 24 hrs. If you want to leave the primer for any length of time before top coating you will need to scuff it at a minimum to open it up to get adhesion. Sent from my SM-G950W using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
There are spray on adhesion promoters. I have never used any. I think that may be a product you could use in that application.
I would wipe it down Real well with cleaner, an piss a light coat of epoxy on the wear areas example floor,jams,dash, But truthfully, Have You ever seen single stage urethane flake off? (I only use fulthane)
Thanks! My main concern was that it was smooth and didn’t look orange peely from not sanding the primer.
Consider scotchbriting it with green pads. It will scuff enough to give some bite. If you can buy it in sheets maybe put it in a drywall pole sander for overhead to save your wrists. I agree with Hoolywood-east though. urethane primer bonds hard. If youve ever had to clean overspray....not fun
I went through that on my 57 Suburban. It was indeed a pain, but I got it done. What you want to do, might depend on the finish you expect to get inside the van. It's kind of tricky painting inside a vehicle. And the original finish on many of them seems to be not so glossy as the outside.
It will never be smooth if you don't sand the primer. I would suggest a satin finish. This won't show as much as a shiny finish. Sent from my 9024W using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Thoroughly sand and clean Apply an epoxy Paint The epoxy I use has a 72 hour no sand window at 70 degrees This epoxy lays down slick
If there's already paint on the inside of your van you will have to at least scuff if not sand it for the primer to stick anyway so why not just shoot the new color over the old scuffed or sanded color???
I agree. The epoxy I use has a five day window. The paint rep says to wait at least 3 days for least amount of shrinkage.
what an epoxy sealer will do is fill the 320/400 grit scratches and handle any bare metal that will show up chances are if your interior paint is factory, it will be very thin will probably sand off easily sometime thinner will wipe it off
PPG DP series epoxy primers can be applied as a primer or a primer/sealer. Follow the directions to activate/reduce as a non sand primer/sealer. It will lay down flatter as a primer/sealer than a primer and require a bit less primer as well. Apply one hiding coat. Don't short cut the prep work. Clean and sand the original finish thoroughly or risk peeling.
The caveat to all of this is to follow the paint manufacturers recommendations. And that recommendation is to coat bare steel within 8 hours of sanding. Cleaning is huge too which has already been mentioned.
Anyone ever tried this product? https://www.paintforcars.com/paintforcars-synthetic-enamel-non-sanding-grey-primer-1-gal.html
You'll need to (at the very minimum) first scuff the inside surfaces no matter what you do. There's a few ways to do that but a scotch-bright pad would be the go to choice. After that Then you'll need to see what you have to work with. Is there any bare steel? It there lots of defects, is it really nice and just the wrong color? From here you can make a better decision on how to proceed. Paint will amplify any defects, chips, scratches. The level of gloss will amplify and surface irregularities like highs and lows in the metal and paint defects like orange peel or dry spots.
I guess I need to try a test area like the inside of one of the doors; scuff the original paint, clean it, spray on the color, and see how it looks after it dries. That should give me an idea of how it’s going to look before I fully commit to the whole inside.
the answer to the question totally depends on how nice you want it to come out. show van? work van? nice driver? camper that you will sleep in? level of finish as mentioned, flat-high gloss. if you want flat-semi gloss you could just clean and scotch bright the surfaces and spray a $50 gallon of alkyd enamel. little nicer? scuff use a $50 sealer and spray a $90 gallon of acrylic enamel. better? scuff surface, spray a $90 gallon of epoxy primer, then choose your price range of enamel/urethane paint $50-200+. really nice?scuff, $90 epoxy prime, $140, filler prime, wet sand and spray.........$100-how deep are your pockets? show finish? could/should involve a complete strip, procedure from the previous paragraph. really the question should have started with "i have $**X to spend on materials and want to put #**X hours into it.
just shoot some old style enamel that will stick to anything personally, I don't want to waste time and materials, hard work (and $) sprayed over 50+ year old paint not saying it caint be done paint preferences and methods are as various as the cars we build
If this is a window van I would just shoot color around the window frames and make some sort of interior trim panels and a headliner like they used to do when vans were the in thing. Maybe even insulate first, dynomat even.
Just a decent looking shop truck; single stage budget priced paint. I used either the single stage enamel or urethane paints from TCP Global on the last few projects I painted and they both looked fine. I painted my 49 Plymouth with their Monza Red enamel and it came out pretty sharp. Reasonable, too; I think it was right at $100 for a 1 gallon kit. I'm stripping the outside to bare metal as I had to replace several panels from rust and it had three different paint jobs on it but the inside was still the original color.
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