Recently picked up this 1959 Galaxie for $2500. Buddy of mine named it Maybelline, seems to fit. Got it as a project to make my own, with the plan being for a mild custom, if i can manage to repair all the other things needing repair first. Overall, car is fairly solid, but has some rust in some difficult places to repair. Both rockers need replacing, the inner right rear quarter is shot, as well as the right trunk floor and right trunk opening weatherstrip channel. Bottom of drivers side door is swiss cheese, as well as under the battery, and the front inner hood is rusted through in some areas. And oddly, it is rusted through on the underside of the drivers side rain gutter. It's missing some trim, so I'll have to track those down, if I choose to reuse the trim. It was also missing the door glass from both sides, so I got those off of eBay, not for the glass but mainly for the chrome trim that goes around the glass. Those seem to be unobtanium. The glass is easily replaced. Interior needs a total re-do, as well as general bodywork/paint. Was considering possibly frenching the backup lights, shaving the handles and most trim other than the side trim, as the pot-metal stuff is pretty pitted, and maybe extending the brow over the headlights and making a tube grille. Also planning on narrowing and tucking the bumpers, to make them fit better. Original colors were Colonial White and Indian Turquoise, but some prior owner thought it was a good idea to spray bomb the car red and black, and they were quite thorough about it. Mechanically, it has a 332 with a Cruise-o-matic and a 9 inch. The plan is to keep it that way, as the car will be just a cruiser. But the engine smokes some, so I'm a little worried I may have to overhaul it. Not looking forward to that. Will try a good tune-up first. It is a factory A/C car, as well as factory power brakes and steering (still the brakes feel heavy). I've heard that the power brakes are a bit of a rarity, but parts for the under dash booster are impossible to find. Only booster rebuild kit I've found is for a Thunderbird, and fitment for a Galaxie isn't guaranteed. I've already gotten a universal booster with GM master to replace it with, and will be converting the front to discs, probably with a Scarebird kit. Also need to rebuild the steering, as its leaking like a siv. Hard part seems to be that many of the mechanicals were unique to 1959, so those from 57-58 or even 60 don't work, and those for 1959's are hard to find. Because of this, considering a Borgeson steering conversion as well, but I'm open to advice from those with more experience than myself on parts interchangability and fitment.
I'd do the Borgeson conversion rather than rebuild the OEM power steering; cost will be about the same, and the integrated box is a definite improvement. Rust doesn't look all that bad. And rather than sink any major money into that 332, swap in a later FE; even a truck 360 will be a big improvement. All-in-all, not a bad start for a project.
I’m a chevy guy but boy these 55-60 fords sure do hold my interest! Looking forward to seeing your progress! Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Ya, 59 Fords are all by them self in the Ford family. Kind of like a 58 Chevy. I understand your issues. I see an endless Cash Hole there. I know what it takes to build your vision from what you have. Here's a little motovation for ya. This is a drive it anywhere low mile rust free one. Seemed like I payed a lot at the time till I see guys like you trying to get to this point. I also have some 57 and 58 Fords, your right very little crosses over. I took me 2 years to find the Temp sender fitting for the FE in this one. I personally would Not change up to the Borgensen steering unit even though it's a better unit. To do that you end up with all the shift hardware inside the Toe Board and unless you can modify your column your going to end up with some late model unit in it. Dennis Carpenter has a over haul kit for your stock unit and cheep. Your other problem may be the shaft in your ram if it's pitted. That's what takes out the seal. It will need to be Hard Chromed to get past the rust pits in it. It just keeps adding up. If your going Custom I'd just plain go late 5.0 with an A.O.D. with or without F.I. You'll have a lot left in your wallet if your thinking about starting to rebuilding the 59 Motor and Trans. Been there done that, both ways. Also these cars don't drive bad without power steering. You can just delete it. Good luck on your Quest. The Wizzard
I have been driving my 59 for 17 years. Stay away from scarebird. I had to use the grinder to make his parts fit and it was the Ford parts I had to grind on. I hated doing that
I had a 59 Ford ex Michigan state police car when I was in high school. It was a top end machine. Keep the FE.
Don't get discouraged. You'll enjoy not having a cutting cutter at the red light. Ebay has been a good source for me. I bought a driver and made a few changes. Big changes coming up.
These Fords make great mild customs, with just the simplest changes. One of the easiest and most effective (IMO) is to simply paint the headlight doors. Here are a couple of examples: The tail lights also respond to a number of treatments. I really like these '60 Buick lenses.
F.Y.I. On both my 57 Hard Top and Vert I mounted a 1974 E-150 Ford booster. It was a very simple add on and it will take any standard Ford Drum-Drum, Drum-Disc or 4 wheel Disc master but not Versie. These are over the counter or on line parts from just about any supplier. Also way cheaper than some 1-800 send me a Kit people. Here's a photo of it mounted and I'll go out on a limb here and say it should be the same fit and job on a 59 though I have not done it myself. I'll tell ya my 59 with an FE does not have Power Brakes. It's all stock 4 wheel drums and I have not yet left a mark on the upholstery from thinking it wasn't going to stop. The Wizzard
I put a 1978 Lincoln 460/C6 into a 1956 Mercury years ago. Think I had to massage trans mount or the crossmember a bit. Also had to make the stock column automatic lever so it would engage P R N D 2 1, but would look stock. Not a 1959 like yours, but the C6 fit should work.
Finished overhauling the carb today, installed new plugs, and changed the oil and filter today. Engine smokes less, starts a little easier and idles smoother. Also did compression check on half the engine (gave up after seeing the numbers on the drivers side bank-110, 105, 105, 90). Afraid the engine is due for a rebuild. I might just run it as is for now, since it runs, and plan on rebuilding or replacing later. Focus on some of the other things at this time, and give myself time to afford rebuilding the FE, or swapping to something else. Maybe I can find a good running 390 or something for it, would prefer to stick with an FE. 5.0 swap seems like the easy thing to do though.
Finding a good to use 390 is no easy task. It was last used in Cars in 1971. Trucks went till 1976 but the 390 became a 360 in 1972 and no where near what the 390 was. I understand wanting easy and cost effective that's why I choose the small block family. You can get a 5.0 cheep and low mile. The C-4 C-6 and A.O.D. all mount in with no issues. It's been a while but I believe 59 was the first year for single stud motor mounts. If so you can use the 63 up Galixie mounts on all 302, 351-w and 5.0 motors and they just bolt up. The Wizzard
Cruso is not a bolt up and probably a not so good choice behind any small block. There is a C-6 for the small block that is physically smaller then the FE C-6. You find them mostly in Trucks and Vans so they are rough service units. The Wizzard
Maybe.... Ford used the Cruise-o-matic and it's later derivative the FMX well into the '70s behind the various 351 motors (not the 351M though), so finding a SBF bellhousing shouldn't be very hard. But there were a fair number of variations in input shafts, so getting the right combination may take some effort. Avoid the C6, it's parasitic power loss is over double that of a C4/FMX which is why its SBF use was limited to trucks (and also why Ford quit using it).
I agree with Steve. If you decide on a small block I'd go C-4 or A.O.D. If going A.O.D. you will need to make some clearance for both rear corners of the Trans pan in the cross member. Not a big deal at all. The Wizzard
Not an expert, but can't you swap in a 410/428 crank, 352 pistons, some bigger valves into the 332 heads, and have a real torquer?
I have a '59 Custom 300, fortunately with zero rot, mild surface rust here and there. I used a disc kit, which was lousy. I'd go with the Scarebird kit and the Wilwood kit is the best one I've seen so far. No power, went manual. Steering is manual but considering a Borgeson kit. I drive it all the time. Try eBay for the missing trim.
So going to give it a go at changing the valve stem seals, head on. Going to see if this helps with the oil burning/smoking. Took the valve covers off, and WTF? I wasnt expecting a model of cleanliness, but damn. Crusty sludge makes me worry about whats in the oil pan, and what the heck with the hole in the passenger side valve cover that looks like it was opened with an old school can opener? PCV valve? the ends of it that go into the intake manifold were just siliconed in place. I'm assuming this stuff was added later, due to emissions requirements. Oh well, plenty to do.
Also, if your drainback holes in the heads get plugged or restricted with sludge, you will definitely be smoking.
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