Technical TheStopShop Brake Parts

Thanks for the welcome!
We do carry front hoses in stainless that will work for 73 A body front calipers
https://www.thestopshop.com/collections/brake-line-fittings-armor-unions-tees-etc/products/hk1

For the rear, could you email me a photo of your rubber hose to info@thestopshop.com? There are two different rear blocks that were used and I'd want to make sure I send the right one (usually part of the rear hose) We can definitely get you the right hose, but want to double check that. Is it an 8 3/4?

Thanks,

Todd

 

The “pick your car and we’ll tell you what fits” thing works only if you have an OEM system, and know what it came from. Here you have guys with interesting mixes of OEM, junkyard, and aftermarket parts, some with modifications.

I spent a bunch of time in 2017 learning about brakes, and reverse engineering the system on my car, because the guy that ***embled it didn’t keep track of what was used. Turns out that I have an unknown GM pedal ***embly, modified, connected to a 67 Chevelle master cylinder, GM 1970s combo valve, driving 67 Chevelle calipers with 72 GMC hoses, a 78 Chevy rear end with drums, using a 69 Camaro rear hose.

Figuring this out took many hours at the local NAPA, where they still have the old paper parts books, and a guy that knows how to use them. For the hoses, we started with part of a part number (half a sticker), a general idea of them being from something GM in the 70s, and specs we could see and measure (threaded end, banjo fitting, length, location and shape of mounting tab), and started looking at pictures, and reading specs.

The calipers were identified by casting number, a Google search, and an old forum post by a guy doing a numbers matching restore looking for a caliper to replace one that wasn’t right.

I don’t need a pick your car thing, I need detailed specs I can use. At one point I was thinking about going with stainless hoses. I still might someday. I was researching those before figuring out what rubber hoses I have are from. What I needed was to know how long it is, so as not to have to move the mounting tabs and redo the hard lines, the ends specs, threaded, AN, or banjo, adapters needed to fit them in place. Good clear pictures of the actual part help too. Generic pictures some sellers use are not helpful.

All of that is hard, maybe impossible, to wrap up in a web site. If you can work with a guy on the phone or via email on the weird details of a custom system ***embled from parts, making sure that’s noted somewhere prominent may help.



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Thanks for the feedback!
I totally understand that many cars here are going to be mix and match. That is exactly why we prefer people to call us to discuss their needs. I know that having technical specs can help customers out as well and we are always continuing to improve as much as a 2 person company can!

We have a ton of customers who call with something like “I’ve got mustang 2 spindles with G body calipers and a Ford 9 inch large bearing rear end with Cadillac calipers”. While I admit that our site is not currently equipped to tell that customer exactly what they need, I ***ure you that we will answer the phone and be glad to help get our customers the best parts we can for their custom applications.


Todd

 

Hello and thanks for the feedback. I agree that it is hard to find the right parts for custom applications on our site, but we are always a phone call away from working through it with you. If you were to tell me that you need a rear disc brake kit for a 10 bolt, I would ask for axle flange dimensions to confirm which brackets would be correct.

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/File:Rear_end_axle_flange_id.jpg

The kit you purchased is made for rear ends out of G bodies or 3rd gen Camaros. We do sell some Right Stuff products along with many other brands including our own. Feel free to email me any specific tech questions you have on your build, but if your calipers aren’t even fitting the brackets I would recommend contacting Summit (the seller) or The Right Stuff (the manufacturer) directly to ask for them to fix it.

 

Thanks again Todd;
It's good to read that you agree with the Combination valves input. At least in this specific vehicle things haven't worked out as one would expect.
A little more information for ya. When first built the lack of rear brakes was all I was addressing. I started out with rear brakes being 11 X 2 1/2" drums. (I wanted this thing to STOP) Changing to the smaller brakes was done on advice of a Local Brake/Alignment friend I've used for many many years. In his defense we both thought it was a shot in the dark but worth trying. It was after that I believe when I removed the valve. Things did get better but not what I'd expect. I have to say if this was a Customers car I would be concerned about turning it over to them knowing it should be better.
My motor is a S.B.C. and at first had a Snotty little cam and way more fun to drive. I changed the Cam and did improve Vacc to the booster (I can't remember it's exact inch) enough to be good enough then. Booster or no Booster you still have the same Hyd action, correct?
More info; This car has the pedal and booster under the floor. The Vacc line is hard lined with 5/16 steel line and less that 6" total rubber hose. The pedal pressure under the foot feels good, not overly hard and for sure not spongy. I can't tell you how many quarts of brake fluid have been pushed through this system. I have always had good fluid flow on all 4 corners. Also, I did hand build all steel lines. When doing the Flairs one thing I do on each is inspect the actual opening. If needed I use a pin ream to make sure there is no restriction to 3/16 i.d. size. Then flush and blow out each line prior to installing. This part has been a life long practice both brake and fuel systems.
I can't tell you what the exact pedal ratio is but, I do have enough travel to get full travel in the Master. When braking I would guess I use about 5/8 of total travel from full up to the toe board. The reason I say this system is marginal is that when I'm in heavy 40 mph traffic and need to drop to 15mph fast I find myself gritting my teeth. On the Freeway at 80 I'm reading traffic way ahead of me. I'm constantly aware of how much I like my Grill and what I have invested in it. It just don't make ya feel comfortable. This car is about the same weight as any stock 70 Nova would be with a 9" Ford stuck in it. Getting the brakes to do there job shouldn't be a big deal.
The Wizzard

 

Todd;
I've been thinking about my current move to smaller wheel cyl's and the comment you made a few posts back about 3/16 vers 1/4 brake line. Volume and Pressure are what make this system work so going to smaller wheel cyl's in my system should force the same amount of fluid into a smaller space and create more push on the shoes and apply the force harder with same pedal travel (I'm thinking out loud here). So backing up to the 1/4" line in place of 3/16" line would it not move more volume with same pedal movement into the cyl's and create more shoe contact pressure? I should look it up but I believe the rear bore size in a Nova rear end was 15/16" as I did have in prior. The odd thing there is that from the Master back to rear connecting hose is 1/4" but line size on the actual Axle housing goes back to 3/16". I'm not opposed to changing the hard line but boy am I tired of shooting in the dark.
The Wizzard

 

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This is the brake hose for the rear, sorry for the delay I was very busy over holidays

 

No problem. We have been a little crazy here as well. I haven't seen a block like that one honestly, but I think this hose would be what you need.

https://www.getdiscbrakes.com/fh86

The shown hose is rubber, but we can sell the braided stainless version for $38.

Thanks!

 

Hello and sorry for the late response.
-I would recommend getting a vacuum reading in gear at idle. That is just always a good piece of data when diagnosing brake issues. You are right that you should be able to press hard enough with manual brakes eventually to get the same stopping power that you would with power brakes, but you may need an abnormally strong leg to do so.
-Decreasing your piston size in the wheel cylinders would decrease your stopping power at those wheels. Larger would be better in the rear to add stopping power back there.
-Changing from 3/16 to 1/4 will not improve your stopping power. I would not worry about line diameter at all in this case.

Give me a call any time and we can discuss what will help. 614-557-3442.

Todd
TheStopShop

 

Welcome aboard.Just did a search and you came up.

 

Just got my fittings in the mail. The 3/16 and the. 1/4. Like the colors and the sheet that goes with it. Doing my brakes on the 29 this weekend. Everything looks good. I’ll update as well.
Question, it would help to have either y or t’s in the kit and also those plastic fittings for bench bleeding help a lot. Esp since my master didn’t come with them.

Like most. 46 ford front. 67 mustang dual drum/drum master. 10” ford rear brakes. Should be straight forward...

 

Two tubing nuts, a bit of s**** tubing, and a couple of minutes to flare and bend it, and you have a bench bleeding setup.



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Yes. But I hate using the master cylinder fittings because they are usually only 2 in the pack and then you have to cut them off after you bench bleed. Doing 2x the work. I do that enough on every other part of the build.

 

Parts stores here only seem to sell tubing nuts in 5 packs. Need one of each size, get four spares to go with it. Still, use it once, then cut it off and use it on the real line.


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Didn't know about the Stop Shop till I read about it here. Talked to Todd and he is sending the fittings I need to me Gratis. said to come back when I need something else. What a Guy. Awesome shop.
Godman could not do anything except in An fittings.