Tried google, but maybe I'm search illiterate? I've a 318 and would like to gain some space if possible. Thanks.
The a series and la series have almost identical blocks. The only difference is a coolant transfer hold at the rear of the head surface. To answer your question more directly, yes they interchange. I can go put a tape measure on my water pump for you in a few minutes
That'd be nice, but don't rush. I have the engine mounts in a set up as far back as I can go without getting into the firewall, I "think" I'll have enough clearance ('32 Dodge PU-originally a straight 6) to keep the hood on and radiator in the original position. I'm just looking ahead in case I run into an issue with the fan/radiator clearance. Trying to line up plan B if needed Thanks.
I'll go out and take a look...but it doesn't matter really, because the pump I have has been off the engine for 15 years...I just kept it for exchange (engine was originally going into a van I had). The reason the outlet isn't a concern is because the original radiator is a honeycomb, which most likely won't be up to the task, which means I'll have one made to fit in the grill shell...so I can have the lower neck put where ever I need it. Seems you have an idea based on where the outlet points?
just to give you an idea how they compare, 1969 and earlier pump has the rad hose on the driver side. 1970 and later has it on the other side, and it's a bit longer shaft. But the timing cover is different, and the damper is different, so you can't just change the pump!
Awesome Jim! My balancer is old...engine was out of a '70-something...so replacement is just fine. Thanks for the help, that earlier pump looks a lot shorter!
Oh my...see I guess I'm showing my Mopar UN-intelligence! Never thought to mention my engine year...thanks for the pic, sure seems like your' is a earlier setup like Jim was mentioning above. Thanks!
The thing about the damper...the timing mark is in a different place. And they changed the crank from forged to cast sometime around then, too. But if your engine is 1966, then you already should have the short pump, so none of this will do you any good. Aside from the little bit of education about mopar small blocks. and the 318, if it's from 1966, is not an LA engine, it is an A engine (polyspherical heads, not wedge heads)
Squirrel, you have gotten my engine, (66 poly pictured above) confused with the op Budget36s' 1970s era 318. Mixup non withstanding your information is spot on.
Thanks again, Gents. Thanks also Jaxx, but I think at worst case I can change over to the earlier setup.
They also went to external balance about that time (1970) and you would have to find a damper that is external balance. Or get your rotating assembly balanced, it can be done they usually have to add Mallory (SP?) Metal.
Thanks never knew that. I know that my ex bro in law had a '73 ( I think maybe a '72?) Dart Sport 340 and it was externally balanced. Still ran like a scalded ape. LOL
Inlet, outlet, same thing when you are all doped up on hydrocodone. Just to be safe, I meant the lower one.
If you have to have a rad made, have them move the mounting brackets on the rad towards the motor so the rad sits a little more forward on the chassis and in the grill shell. Should be able to shift that rad forward an inch or two (I can on my 39 Dodge Grill). Moving the mounting brackets on the rad will probably yield more room then the shorter pump. Gene
I'll have to look that over hard...but my grill shell is kinda like a Model A shell, where the radiator is sitting flush with the front of the shell. There's no bars in front of it like a '32-up Ford grill.