Here's the scoop. My '64 C-10 Daily Driver has a '72 4-bolt 350ci motor. Miles, rebuild & internal specs are unknown. It's a good motor for running around, but it doesn't have any balls and oil pressure is lower than I'd like it to be. Usually at idle it's at around 25psi, and buzzing down the highway it's at about 30-35, nail it...there's no change in pressure. It burns alot of oil and smokes, but hasn't used any or smoked since I changed the oil (Valvoline 20w50), filter, and added some Bars Stop Leak last week. I've been looking into GM Crate 350's and there's a few out there that are appealing. One is a 190hp version with a good warranty, another is a 290hp version for about $500 more but the warranty isn't as good. Both are 4-bolt main blocks. I'm just curious what you guys think about crate motors or just buying a reman long block from a local motor supply shop. Rebuilding mine is out of the question right now because the swap would need to happen over a weekend since it's my daily driver. I'm not looking for big power, but more along the lines of reliability and overall bang for the buck.
the chevy goodwrench 350 at about $1500 is a very good deal in my opinion. i have used 9 of them and the owners are all pleased with them. it would cost about the same to have you engine rebuilt , and you get a much better warranty your oil pressure doen't sound to bad to me...if you are blowing oil , my guess it may be valve guides. can you do a compression check and a leak down test? that will tell you more about your engine....you may get by with just some head work
It's real tough to beat GM's deal and Summit has a KILLER price and delivery. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=NAL%2D10067353&N=400129+4294908216+4294865822+4294865806+115&autoview=sku
The quality of a rebuilt is dependent on who built it and what does he know. Did he care about what hes doing? Was he hungover or ready to quit for the weekend? A crate motor sounds best. Last I heard, the 320 hp from GM was about $2200.
check the fine print on the gm base 350 crate motor......the local dealer was telling us that the warrenty only applied to a specific year range on the vehicle....think it was say 68or so to 86......anything other than that ...the warranty went to a 12 / 12 .......with that being said ....i used one in a 35 ford 4 dr sedan ....used block huggers and a aluminum intake and 600 holley ....that dude would run ......probably a easy 13 second ride.....faster than the then 76 year old owner wanted it to be.,.....haha brandon
Depends on your priorities. The crate motor will have a better warranty, comes ready to drop in (depending on it's state of dress), and probably will have a less chance of failure. I'm ***uming you will be able to get a reman'ed bottom end or complete engine from a local machine shop at a lesser price than the crate. Also they may have a core discount so you can drop off the old bottom end and get some money back. It ultimately will depend on how light you want your wallet to be when you are finished.
forgot to mention .....support your local machine shop.......they are quickly going the way of the mom and pop operations.....who knows may meet some cool people ....haha brandon
A few years ago I picked up a remanned 302 for my '89 F150 from SRS there in Austin. It was a good motor & was dirt cheap- like $400 for the shortblock. Unless they've gotten worse since then (ask around there in Austin- bad reps travel fast), I'd call & see what a rebuilt longblock would run you. Seems like I saw them advertise recently $650 for a 350 longblock. Just be sure to check it over before you install it (I'd do this w/ any engine I didn't do myself anyways).
we put a crate "350" with a serpintine system..a "Edllbrock" performer "air-gap intake with a 600cfm carb...runs sweet..smoe places will do a "price match gaurntee" so if you take your "summet" ad to them they will match it..got the serpintine system there too....
Jeremy, you should call Roach just for kicks...see if he's got something laying around that would work. If you want Balls, how about a BBC? I know where one is... -John Joyo...
The warranty drops to a year if you put it in a 1969 or older or if it did not come original to the vehicle and is a replacement according to GM
If it was mine I'd be doing a compression test before doing anything else. IF they're within about 10% of each other, do a valve seal job, which can be done in the truck without pulling the heads, and drive it some more, a lot more.
hmmm..what's a "good" oil pressure reading cause I've got a crate and mine is just around that reading and it runs great.
25pounds at idle is great psi. A 350 probly wont see muhc more than about 45psi unless it has upgraded oiling system. That said i wouldnt get in any big hurry to change the engine out. But if i had money i would get the crate engine.
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