With a dropped heavy '32 axle and '39 round back spindles, and '32 rails is there a good or bad reason to run the tie rod over or under the split bones? Photos always help, but what is the on the road advice you have on either setup? Bob
Have to watch the clearance of the tie rod to the bottom of the frame rail.....allowing for suspension travel if over the wishbone. If under the wishbone, watch the clearance to the ground (scrub line ).
If you do have a clearance issue, an old trick is to use '37 Willy's tie rods. They are forged and dropped and look like they are made for this application. Be prepared to pay for recent Ebay auctions had them going for $275 a set. I was lucky to secure two sets many years ago.
You may find it's takes some drastic bending to get them under the bones. I have them over my bones on my 32 PU and they are close to the frame but have never hit. I'm running a Posie rolled and tapered low spring and an A cross member.
Ahh I was just going to say depends on what spring and crossmember you are running, you beat me to it.
These look like a good replacement for the old Willys tie rod ends: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-1948-64-Ford-Pickup-Truck-Dropped-Tie-Rod-Ends,50152.html My 32 sedan uses a stock wishbone and front crossmember, and I have the tie rod above the wishbones. The car isn't really low, and I have a couple inches before the tie rod s****es the bottom of the frame. If I was to lower the car more with either an A crossmember or flatter spring (seriously considering it) I would definitely put the bar under the wishbone.
As mentioned you will find them both above and below, depending on the rest of the set up. Not that hard to bend and get below. First 32 has a stock crossmember with a low reversed eye spring and tie rod below. If you ignore the fake axle and A frame in the second and third pictures show some arm bending. In the fourth, this '32 has stock spring and crossmember with tie rod above; while the next has reversed eyes and flattened crossmember. Kinda shows that set up determines tie rod placement and spring clearance notches, too.
It also depends on which wishbones you are running, I have '36 split wishbones and they sweep up so under is the route for me and my flatty sits lower in the frame so the tie rod would hit the crank pulley if I went over the bones, but if you have '32 bones they sweep down at the mounting point so you can go tie rod over, there is no right or wrong way just depends on your set up.
This is a timely and educational thread, thanks. Thanks to Rich B for the Comparison photos too. It looks like the main issues are works with and Clears everything.
I have bobs 32 heavy that we dropped and his spindles here for a rebush and steering arm adjustment. I asked him about his setup to help determine which way to go. He’s going to use 32 wishbone and a flatter than stock front crossmember. I think you’re undecided on the type of spring bob? It can be done either way but it’s a little less traumatic for the steering arms to run it above and it makes the car a little less sensitive to wear in the tie rod ends by keeping the steering arms a little longer. I like to keep the tie rod above the wishbone if possible but I don’t recommend it if aftermarket crossmembers and springs are used, too many variables. Although krylon32 states he has this setup with no issues?
I cut the goosenecks from 1" plate complete wth the knobs for the perch bosses. I used the cutting torch and then rounded them off with the grinder. The perch bosses were turned on a lathe. It has been in service for decades! The arms are Model A.
I'm currently building a similar setup. Stock dropped 32 i-beam, unsplit 32 bones and 37 spindles. I am used Ford F1 dropped tie rod ends to get the tie rod below the bones. That way you don't have to drop the arms quite so far. Sent from my SM-G935F using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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