If you have the room at the firewall, a GM HEI is the way to go, one of those things you buy ONCE. Summit should take back the one you have. I would also toss a timing tape on the balancer, Summit has those too and they're pretty good.
Still don't follow. You're talking half way around the cap. Anybody? Before we start replacing parts or sending them back?
No not quite half way around but when installed I put the rotor pointing at number one cylinder but to run at all it need to be turned counter clockwise away from number one cylinder by a few degrees but its turned enough to look like the rotor points at cylinder 3 when engine is at tdc it won't run at all when its pointing like all the others I've seen...help mark! And I do have room for the gm hei which I'm leaning towards now and will certainly be happy to send that summit piece back if its the culprit thanks guys!
YEah, I noticed that too. This guy has so many odd issues he comes here for help with, I don't know what to make of it all. I know the purpose here is to help people get through problems, but I don't know how one guy has so many unusual problems that don't seem to make sense.
I don't follow either, but it's so far out it seems like the distributor is installed 180 degrees out (maybe plus or minus a bit with a tooth or two) but that's ok, kinda, as long as when #1 cylinder is at TDC the rotor arm is pointing at #1 wire, wherever that is situated! But with it like that you'll never determine the timing properly (well not impossible but there's so much correction to be built in!) and I'm perplexed as to how you can claim you have it at 10-12 btdc!!?? I'd suggest in the first instance reinstalling the distributor to specification and working from there. Might seem unnecessary as you say it runs, but it makes it difficult for anyone to make informed comments when the basics are way out. Chris
You guys are thinking too much. What he's saying is that the rotor is pointing somewhere between the physical #3 and #5 cylinder. Not the cap terminal for them. Which means he has to crank the dist around to get the timing right. He's just a tooth or two off which make the dist look stupid, but affects very little. This would also have very little if anything to do with spark ****ter which is his problem. Outside of some sort of electrical anomaly, backlash somewhere between the crankshaft sprocket and the distributor rotor is the only thing that's going to cause ****ter. As some have said the timing chain can do it, though there is usually enough load on the cam that it doesn't drift that much. backlash in the dist gear can do it along with loose parts in the advance mechanism of the distributor.
Start by pulling the valve cover and spark plug on #1 cylinder. Rotate engine till both valves are closed on #1 cylinder, and you feel compression with your thumb over the spark plug hole. drop a plastic drinking straw in the spark plug hole, rotate engine till straw quits rising out of hole, verify timing marks on balancer to pointer are correct for TDC, Pull distributor cap and verify rotor is pointing at #1 plug wire, ( as long as firing order is correct, #1 location is not important ) Distributor shaft to gear clearance around .020" If the above is correct, proceed on. For testing, pull one spring off the advance weights and use small wire tie, heavy spring, or rubber band to hold weights in place. If the springs are weak, the advance comes in way to fast and weak springs may not pull the weights back till the rpm is way down. If the idle speed is up enough, the advance may never return to zero ( home ) causing funky timing setting. By limiting the advance, you will see base timing and can set it accurately. I see this a lot with soft springs and heavy weights on my distributor machine.
Glad you understand so well. Maybe we'll let you take over this tune up. Now we've got more worn out parts ,with a new engine, distributor. Most likely none of the above. He needs to total time it (no vacuum) at a steady 3000, and see if it jumps then. Report back to fmstruck.
Just so ya know. I bought a goodwrench crate engine from jegs and swapped the cam, When I went to tighten the cam sprocket bolts they twisted right in half like candle wax. Just something else to think about.
Odds are your up and down end play is ok. The engine runs so its at the very least running. I would suggest a visual inspection of the drive gear. I realize how frustrating these issues can be with all new parts . I would be glad to loan you a orginal chevrolet V8 machine tested distributor ( with points, cap , wires and rotor just to help ya out) You pay the shipping both ways.... All todays HEIs are made off shore including the Delco! Jim at Bubbas Ignition...
Voila, or is that walla? Different eyes for sure! Good job! Miss-information guessing game, as is often the case. Sadly. Whodunnit? I think it was Miss Scarlet, in the bedroom with the lead pipe *****. Chris
Well guys..... It was the distributor or something in it rather...I put a chevy performance hei in and it was driving in 10 minutes...still have no idea why it wouldn't idle with that distributor and why the timing was walking but it sure runs now... Thanks everyone for all their help along the way its been kinda hellish and confusing for guys on here but thanks for hanging with me...I'm going for a ride!
Yeah !!! From that other thread,,, Did we ever use a volt meter on the power for the distributor ? Not a test light but an actual volt meter and measure 13.2 volts feeding the distributor while running? If that resistance wire is Infact being used in the ignition system and not removed or wadded up that's going to cause you issues. Many of the ones you just described. Oh the HEI distributor may sorta work for a little while on the reduced voltage, but the symptoms will reappear. Just sounds really fishy
Yes we checked it for the voltage and it was right at 13 volts when running at the cap terminal the resistance wire along with the old ballast resistor and ***ociated wiring is gone now
Thanks 31vicky and just drained the oil looks good little cloudy from the ***embly lube and no visable metal whatsoever so looks good for the flat tappet cam. Thanks again guys!
Ship the old one back to Summit, they are pretty good on returns. It sounds like something mechanical to me, loose roll pin that holds the gear on, a bad bushing, etc.
If your timing is walking back and forth and the distributer is nailed down I would look into the control mod. It could just be your advance is working but if you have poor run qualities I would suspect the control mod. Tell you a story, had a 355 in an Avanti that I was trying to sort out for a guy about 10 years or so back. The damned thing ran like a portable generator, it would rev up then drop off etc. Brand new Accel electronic distributer and coil. Took the distributer and had it tested, it tested fine. My brain kept saying it was the distributer but like I said it tested fine ( reputable distributor shop did the test) finally out of desperation I jerked the Mallory from my truck, dropped it into place and the engine ran perfect. Electronic distributers are good or they are not.
The Jalopy Journal
