Projects BRIAN MADE ME DO IT: 34 Roadster Build

Yep,
You should count on those switches failing, think of them as a consumable.
And make them easy to change. Better yet, avoid them if possible.
Damn sure don't set one up as a drain plug on the master cylinder.

It's easy enough to use a limit switch
You can put set them up to work off the pedal's positions, brake rod, clutch fork, put one on the seat pad, put one on the shifter

 

Copy that, already on line looking for limit switches. Thanks man!. Wanta buy a couple pressure switches, installed, never used?

 

That's why the doh!
Right after sending that first photo this POS tablet seized up, then I realized my fo paw.
Oh well, back in the drawer they will go.

 

Are they chrome,
Or just polished ?

 

Do ya really have to ask?
Here is a question for you, the only thing that will bind the body to the chassis are the one gauge starter cable and the 4 gauge charging cable. They both enter the car after the doors. I was thinking about installing some sort of quick connect or a buss bar to aid in body removal if ever needed. Any ideas?
The front harnesses will unplug easy enough. My fuel line is a quick connect. The only other wires are the tank sender/pump/license plate. There is nothing else joining the two parts other than a couple of radiator supports and a throttle cable.

 

Battery quick disconnect plug ?
They are quite suitable for the task, stand up to daily use ( for about 1 year)

Bulkhead battery studs - probably similar to the bus bar idea?
They provide the sealed penetration and the cable connection on both sides Might make a bump in the carpet.

Since the floor is glass, you probably could just drill a hole and bolt the body side cable down inside with enough threads past the nut to attach the engine side of cables. Make a little cover to keep the stray metallic road debris from shorting things out.

 

Ah, ah, ah. Thou dost blow a shift. Floor is 1/8" steel. Thing is built like a H-1 Hummer.

 

Wow, then the bulkhead connectors
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MIxqnOk8-Z2QIVxmSGCh3aNQsPEAQYASABEgK34PD_BwE

 

$50.00 each?!!!! Yikes! That is what I was talking about though. It would make taking the body off easy some day. Not that I plan on it.

I found the fitting I needed today, 4AN male to 3/16 female flair fitting. And with that I finished the clutch line. I installed the 10lb valve and loosely tied it to the transmission. I didn't want it tight to allow for a little torque and twist, but back here that is limited and of course the line is flexible that runs inside the bell housing.

I left plenty of room in the back to remove the M/C if ever necessary. I also made a nice little bracket to secure the bleeder where it easy to access near the oil sender.

I cut a nice service door in the floor of my car and made a cool aluminum cover for it. Both M/C's will be easily reached through that space.

 

Looooking Gooood BB
One thing to consider (if you haven't already) is supporting that line/valve behind the M/C.
Could (in time) fatigue the hard line from vibration or up and down oscillation.

 

I hadn't given that consideration...yet. I am never going to fnish this car!

Rant over. I went back and re-made the front brake line. It was good but now that my skills have been honed I decided to try it again if I had some stainless left over. Here is the result.

That is a lot of bends in a short piece of stainless steel. It is longer on one side due to the placement of the tee on the left rail.

Installed it is hard to get a picture of it.

Okay, enough brake lines. Tomorrow I'll finish the fuel line routing to the regulator and put the body up on the lift for a few details before setting it on the frame.

 

Todays tasks included;
Fuel and vent lines, check

Oil pan installed, check
16 SS pan bolts sanded and polished, check and re-check

Starter mounting plate polished and installed, check
Starter installed with heat shield, check

Gear lube in QC, check

Tomorrow, I need to fill motor, build a wiring harness for the pump and tank sender ( both leads and grounds) that will run into the trunk, add the frame webbing where the body sits, drill choke cable hole in firewall, drill provision for trans reverse light wiring and tail shaft electric sender in trans tunnel on body,

I'm getting ready to drop the body on finally.

 

I got a few more things done today. I made the harnesses for the pump and sender, added a quick connect to each (one male, one female so I know how to plug them back in). I also added the frame webbing, secured the brake line over the QC that needed reinforcing, then it was out with the frame and move the body to the lift for final prep before mounting the two.

The two pieces met briefly in the driveway. They'll get to know each other more intimately later.

I ended the weekend with the body off the cart and on the lift. A phone call to summit in the morning for a few parts and with any luck I will mate these halves up next weekend.

 

Almost a shame to cover up that sheckshy chassis.

 

Like a supermodel's undies, it'll all still be there even though it wont be visible without crouching,

 

Do you mind sharing the details on all of the different electrical disconnect connectors you are using?

 

What aren't I using would be easier. The rear connectors I used this morning are two prong trailer connectors. I found a cool 12 lead connector for my gauge panel that will allow it to unplug and make dash removal a lot easier. My heater has a 2 prong 10 gauge connector I found at a marine supply house. I also used their jamb switches, master disconnect and a few other electrical connections. My front headlight connectors came with my fuse box wiring kit from Coach Controls. I am still counting the wires I need to run up both front inner fenders. I think I have 8 on the left and 9 on the right but every time I count them I come up with a different number. Once I have that figured out I have a supplier on line that has multi pin connectors that I will order. It is a bit of extra work but it will make working on the car a lot easier.

 

Wouldn't be a hoot if you never have to.

 

Sounds like I better get down to the local marine supply shop and see what they sell.
Do you have a picture of that 12 lead connector and maybe a manufacturer name ?
Actually any pictures you have of the electrical connections would be good for us visual types

 

http://terminalsupplyco.com/Store/Default.aspx?CAT=TERM060&PCAT=61820#Categories

My favorite place for that stuff, they are just 35 mins down the road too.
All sorts of stuff Aka too many choices

 

now I know what it feels like when my wife walks by the jewelry stores at the mall

 

Bandit Billy your build is coming out awesome but I have to tell you I am sporting serious wood over your driveway and garage set up! Man that is an awesome shop set up! You win the best background in a photo contest hands down!

 

This has to be a model dia-arama, just tooo perfect to be real.
Wunerfl wunerful Billy

 

I live in a subdivision with some serious rules on what you can build, basically no shops. But they forgot to include how many garages I can have.
Thanks for all the kind comments. I have been looking forward to putting my car together for a long time and it is finally happening. I ordered a couple of extra long radiator support rods this morning as mine have to be bent to avoid my carburetors, and I ordered the two bulkhead connectors pictured above. In the meantime I have a few chores to take care of on the body. I'll keep you posted.

 

Hey, those are rated at 250 amps, that is plenty for the #4 altenator charging cable but the #1 starter cable off the ford style solenoid, wont it draw more than that under extreme situations? Shouldn't I go 500 amp on the rating?

 

I didn't see the amp rating,
Checked again and still didn't see it. Didn't see a 500 rating product either.

500 amp rated would be way better than 250 rated. I'd imagine it's a 3/8 straight thru stud, what's the amp rating on that?

 

They look the same but have a 1/2" stud.

 

Do the lugs that fit your size cables come with 1/2" holes? Seems I'm forever reaming normal battery cable lugs to fit on 3/8 studs.

 

I have 1/2 inch copper eyelets (NAPA) for the #1 cable and one of those crimpers you set on the floor and smack with a heavy hammer. My kill switch is 1/2 also, they don't make 1/2" eyelets for #6 cable and I have 2 of those going to the switch, I am thinking about buying a #0 eyelet and putting both #6's in there and giving it the smack down.

I too hate reeming those darn eyelets out.