Hi Folks, I'm going to be converting to 12 volts and am wanting to start finding the materials and parts. Any tips would be great. 1928 stock Chevy banger. Thankyou
What about the amp meter? Is it sensitive voltage? Although some consider them fire starters I thought they didn't care if 6v or 12v. Truth please.... -Dave
The ammeter does not care about voltage, 6v or 12v. But if you also change from positive to negative ground system, the meter will read backwards. You have to reverse the connections on the meter.
Coil Your Amp Meter just registers Amps. It has no idea what the voltage is and yes they are fire starters. As long as you don't over amp it you should be OK. IE 30 amp meter running a 60 amp alternator for example.
Thought so, thanks. My 1st car had a amp meter and it would amuse me to watch the needle flick a little back 'n forth when the turn signals were on. It was a '63 Dart. -Dave
I can't imagine that the amp meter on a 28 Chev measures more then 20 amps, probably less. Any alternator puts out a minimum of 30 amps, most 60 amps or more, which will burnout the stock 28 Chev amp meter.
My reasoning for not using the ammeter is that they have a unfortunate knack for overheating and burning- not something that anyone wants happening to their vehicle/build/etc.
Ok, - Coil - Bulbs - Alternator; can i just pick one up at napa - Ballast resister...what us that? - regulator , any suggestions?
Oh, you want to use an alternator? hmm.....I guess you could just pick one up at NAPA. Then you'd have to figure out how to mount it. If you do this, you could get one for a 1973-1985ish Chevy and it would be relatively easy to connect (it will use 3 wires) because it has a built in voltage regulator. Or you could get one of the "one wire" alternators, and it would be even easier to connect, although it might or might not start charging only after you rev up the engine a ways, when you first start it. The alternator kind of upsets the looks of the old engine, though. Using a 1955-1962 Generator would be so much more neat looking, although it would also require some mount adapting, and it requires an external voltage regulator, and it would probably end up costing quite a bit, unless you get lucky and find parts that someone took off their car when they converted to an alternator. Ballast resistor is a resistor that goes in series with the coil + terminal, to drop the voltage to the coil. Used on Chevys from 1955-1959ish, then they did some funky wiring tricks to take it's place.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I've decided to see if i can get it running as is first. I agree about the alternator.
Thanks again folks. I'm going to see if i can get it running as is. The guy sais there wasn't a carburetor but there it was in the bottom of a box that had wood pieces in it.
Bummer- wish you were closer! Don't bother with the stock carb, as they are just about useless- stick it on ebay to get some project $$ (the restoration guys will pay money for it) and use something that breathes better
Mac, What carb would you recommend? I have the original cleaned as well as a Carter C-RJH-08 updraft that I can sell to help buy a better working carb. Thanks Where are you located?
Are you staying updraft or flipping the intake and going down? https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1928-chevy-4cyl-motor.463465/#post-5107577 If you go to this thread, there are LOTS of great comments on the early Chevy 4!!!
While the original carb was not Carter's finest product, it ran the stock engine about as well as could be expected. The worst feature of the original Carter was the exceptionally high cost (parts) to rebuild one (after 90 years). Once restored with modern components (fabricate the standpipe and venturi from br*** or aluminum rather than the original zinc alloy; and the carb performs reasonably well and is reasonably reliable. Yes, there are better carbs. Even if you replace it, I would suggest holding on to it, as you may tire of the project, or your heirs may wish to dispose of it; and having the original, even if not on the car, makes the car easier to sell. In the for what its worth category: According to my Dad, who tried to keep a '28 Chevy on the road in the 1930's, the Achilles heel for the '28 is the rear axle. Dad used to say about 2 trips over a railroad crossing would break the rear axle. I never owned one, so do not know. If Dad was right, and he generally was right, you probably don't want to do much to get more HP from the engine unless you plan on doing something with the rear end. Jon.
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