Hello all, I recently replaced my master cylinder on my 52 Customline but it has no place on it for the brake light switch. I was really needing help on relocating it.. any help will be greatly appreciated.
funny, I was just looking up this switch quandary an hour ago stock master = you have to either use a "t" fitting on the line coming out of the master, (***uming its is a steel line) dual bowl master = "tee" fitting on the line going to the front brakes or install an electric switch,part #dr496(autozone, advanced auto) above the pedal on the pedal mount bracket hamb search = brake lamp switch, stoplight switch, etc
You can always fabricate a bracket to accommodate a early mechanical brake light switch which has a arm that engages or disengages when the brake pedal arm is moved. HRP
Mine has mustang dual master with the brake light switch mounted to a fabricated bracket activated by the pedal. I wish I had easy access to the car so I could take a few pics. It's just aplunger style switch.
Oddly enough, I am using TWO brakelight switches. I mounted a GM style switch inside above the brake pedal like Dodg66440. That's the one that operates the light circuit. When I plumbed my hydroboost, I added a Wilwood proportioning valve that came with a pressure switch. That was perfect timing, because I found out not too long after I got the valve that my CPU required a signal from the brake circuit. So, I'm actually using two, but each for different purposes. Jeff just posted a pic of my inside one in the next post
Pretty simple fix get an "L" bracket from the hardware store drill one end to fit the switch and get a switch like this which you can find in the "HELP" section at O'Reilly's and position it in place and attach the bracket so it actuates off the brake pedal. There are some pictures back it the archives.
I used a gm brake light switch mounted under the dash on a bracket I built that goes on the bracket that the brake pedal hangs on hope this makes sense.
Just remembering.........that pic Jeff posted.......The reason I went with the additional pressure switch is after intalling the first GM switch, I broke the cheap plastic housing just snugging up on the lock nuts. I replaced it of course, but never felt comfortable with the plastic switch's longevity after that, so I figured it was a back up using both. So, be careful when tightening the switch down! I think the GM switch that I used actually had two sets of terminals
Jeff's way is what I do on all my cars. I think the electric ones are a lot better then the pressure switches. At least more consistent.