Use Mold release wax and PVA. The PVA is water soluble . Squirt a bit of water between the mold and the rubber after its set. it will come right off
I used the wax paper method when I modified the angle on my side mirror bases for my 37 Chevy and it worked very well. You may want to do some type of small sample testing with the ideas you get to see what might work best for your application. Good luck.
I am enjoying this thread, can't wait to see how the project works out. I used this product on the floor and fenderwells of my Jeep: www.durabakcompany.com It was thick, cured with little shrinkage unlike other DIY liner materials I used in the past. Brushed on to the sides without running, held up extremely well in the four years I had the daily driven Jeep and the color (I used white) stayed true. Maybe it is an optional material you could try. If I remember right, they will send samples of the material.
PVA is a good release agent and it dissolves with water. After you wax your mold spray a coate in the mold and let it dry. It has a green cast to it like the old Green Coke Bottles.
I emailed the maker of Raptor and their tech called me the next day. We had a pretty long conversation about what I wanted to use their product for. The tech was very helpful. If I decide to use their product I would spray a few coats of the product on the forms, allow each coat to flash dry, said wait about an hour between coats. Then I'll apply another coat to the form and one to the metal running board and lay the metal running board in the form. After allowing that layer to firm up I will use their other product Tiger Hair, it comes in a caulk tube, and I'll fill in the gap front and back of the metal running board. I have to wait until after the holidays to get to it. I appreciate all the help and suggestions. I'll post more as I go along.
UPOL does not make a product called Tiger Hair. That is a reinforced filler manufactured by Evercoat. You must mean Tiger Seal. I am interested to see how it pulls off the molds. It's pretty hard when it is dried. I have it sprayed underneath my fenders and I can't imagine it being flexible enough to pull off something in one piece.
You’re correct, got the names mixed up. I have the do***ents on my computer. I’ll have to some tests to see how it works. I was going for the product we discussed but I think doing a pouring type product wouldn’t be feasible. I’d have to use all kinds of dams to retain the mix. When I redid the motor mounts for my car I had a lot of trouble trying to keep the liquid from oozing out of every tiny hole. I used paddy to seal but there still were little p***ages for it to leak out of. On a project this size it would be next to impossible to not have a few pin hole leaks.
I wonder if you could use some kind of sacrificial thin first layer (like flex seal) that was sprayed in then allowed to dry and then add mold release inside that and pour in your finished product. It would then be peeled off the cast product and discarded but would seal the mold to prevent leaks.
I'd try using duct or masking tape on the outside of your "mold"to seal the holes, then pour. I also think that flexseal won't be tough enough. Try using a roofing rubber coating....much tougher and weather resistant. That stuff actually sets up like a tough rubber, and is thick enough so it shouldn't leak thru pinholes. It is often used to seal chimmneys, and won't run down on a verticle surface if not applied to thick.
Has there been progress on these would be curious to see the finished product and what products you used. I have a similar situation with the running boards for a 38 Master Deluxe.
Had to put the project on hold. Going through job changes. Hopefully I'll get back on it soon. Definitely won't be using Flexseal, a member sent me a sample and it crumbled when I gave it a twist. Also could dig a finger nail into it. I'm thinking Raptor bed liner.
Raptor bed liner is the ticket. That’s what I used. If you shoot a few coats keeping the gun between 12 to 18” away it will lay without a lot of texture. The first coat being a pretty light coat and give it some time to flash. Around a half hour or so at 70 degrees. That way it bonds better to the surface. Then do a final p*** from about four or five feet away after the first few coats have had some time to flash. This gives a nice texture with some grip. I actually did my first two coats close. Scuffed it the next day. Then shot the top coat. Sorry it’s not a good picture. I’m not at home. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Bob, You can buy Raptor at Auto Paint and Supply in Waukesha. I get it there all the time. Comes in a gallon kit but its in individual quarts so you don't really have to worry about it drying up before getting a chance to use it all. Also if it helps ya, I had The Old Sheet Metal Shop on 33rd Street in Milwaukee bend the radius on some 14ga. when I made the running boards for a '40 Buick a few years ago.
Iron man, what kind of card did you do the running boards for? Were the ribs formed in the medal? On the Buick the ribs are in the rubber covers, that's why I am using a form. J53 I've gone to Auto Paint and Supply many times, they're about the only place that has the hard to find auto body supplies no one else has. Good place.
It is on a 41 Ford truck. Yes, the ribs are stamped in the metal. But you can make ribs with Raptor. Mask out the ribs, shoot a few coats then remove the tape. I did something similar to an off topic Jeep about a year ago. Masked out some graphics and shot the texture. Then reduced the Raptor and shot over the top of the texture with a regular paint gun. Was a $180.00 paint job. Hope the moderator doesn’t mind the pics. They are just for illustration.://www.jalopyjournal.com/mobile-gallery/6fb29e4ff340aebfa9b3704f1f48329a.jpg[/IMG] Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I made some smooth steel running boards & then used bodyside mouldings to create the ribs before having bedliner applied. It comes in many profiles & sizes. I used 2 different ones. A larger one on the step, and a smaller one on the bottom edge. I also seam sealed the edges of the mouldings, otherwise there would be a slight undercut as the adhesive tape does not come right out to the edge of the moulding. These were built 20 years ago.
Not really what you are looking for but I used flex seal on the inside of the rear fenders on my 56 pickup. I had no stone star cracks last season. I will be applying another quart this spring. Hobo Jim
Following along when you get a chance to do tests. Glad to see raptor is in the running, out of the 4 or 5 bedliner products Ive used, I prefer it. Interested to see how it does with removal from a mold.
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