Projects Glass '32 5 Window

Thanks, I’m very pleased with the seating position and steering wheel location now. They are on tracks but I like the seat as far back as possible as I like my legs stretched out when I’m driving. The only other tweak I need to make is to move the throttle peddle.
It’s a 4 point roll cage and was installed very tight to the roof and sides to be as unobtrusive as possible and was a very nice job. The only problem was that it was too tight and the front posts were touching the doors which would prevent then from being trimmed. I did consider removing it. However, having been in a fairly major accident with my gl*** 3 window a couple years ago I decided to keep it and have it narrowed as I have experienced how little protection you get in a gl*** rod. It is currently in a workshop having this done together with the rear exhaust sections being modified so that I can lower the back end as it sat too high in my opinion. I’m hoping to get it back tomorrow.

I’ve also changed the centre caps to the no-name aluminium type as I wasn’t very keen on the plastic ones that came with the wheels

 

As much as I LOVE torq thrust wheels, I really like the look of your 5w with the slots like in your avatar.

 

Good to know. I think I might do the cage in mine, just for the safety. I haven't mounted the seats yet, and have a little wiggle room front and back. What size tubing was used for your cage? I might run Bonneville in the future. They have 2 cl***es for hot rods that mine could fit into. I think there is a 135 mph cl*** and a 150. Might be a great bucket list item to do at the young age of 70. Time will tell!! Great pic, two sets of wheels are fun, you could even mix and match styles. No rules!!

 

it was a difficult choice but the Torque Thrust Originals did it for me. The slots looked great but were very 70’s, I prefer 60’s styling and my aim is to gradually give it a 60’s make over.

 

That would be fun and something to aim for after the house build. I’m not sure about the tube diameter, I will check it out when I get it home tomorrow but it’s quite substantial. Only one set unfortunately, the slots had to go to help fund the Torque Thrust’s. Rod parts are at a premium in the UK due to import costs and few homegrown parts. The other decision to keep the roll cage was that I became a grandfather 16 months ago and I want to take out my grandson out in it as much as possible when he’s older and had seat belts fitted to the cage for safety reasons.

 

AGREED, I have 2 sets of torque thrusts, street long haul radials and the cl***ic bias front cheaters for the rear.

 

Congrats, my kids are 25 (Steph) and 23 (Bryan), they say no way to grandkids, but I bet that will change, I remember saying the same thing, over and over. Now look, can't imagine life without them!!!

 

If there is any thought to your coupe seeing dragstrip or Bonneville action; I'd look at the rollbar requirement that would be the tougher of the two to p*** tech. inspection.
Only two numbers to be concerned with, tube diameter and wall thickness.
Much easier to do now than later.
Haven't seen a rulebook for some time but 1&3/4"x.134 wall mild steel would seem reasonable for the speeds you are planning on running.

Here is a response from Rooman on a similar discussion.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/what-type-and-size-tubing.1025762/


Another thing to note is that although the spec for mild steel calls for .118 wall, the commonly available HREW / ERW (seamed) tubing sold as .120 wall will usually not p*** as it may be as thin as .112/114. That is why any reputable builder uses .134 wall (and not because the tubing gets thinner on the outside of the bend as stated by buffaloracer). If you make it out of CDS (cold drawn seamless) that issue goes away but mild steel CDS costs almost the same as 4130. That said the 4130 has to be TIG welded while MIG is OK for the mild.

Roo

 

Thanks, I was planning on using NHRA rule book for my guidelines. Feel that would be the safe side. Mild steel would be my choice. Now to find the room for people, and their heads!!

 

I've been going pouring over the rule book to design the roll cage in the '32. I'll be doing a funny car style double hoop over my head for a few reasons. First for helmet clearance (hoops front and back of the helmet), then safety (2 hoops gotta be better than 1) and lastly to incorporate the door hinge mounts into the upright of the forward hoop.

 

My old Vette had a funny car cage, great for racing, but hell on the street. I have a letter form an NHRA tech source, informing me I can use half high braces going forward and aft to the frame from the roll bar as long as I put an X in roll bar with headrests if required. Granted it ain't no 6 second set up, but it's better than nothing.

 

i picked up the coup this morning and very pleased with the work carried out on it. It sits so much better now:
here's before the work


and after:


I also checked the roll cage, it's 1 13/16th.
I was thinking I needed bigger tyres on the rear but now the wheels are sitting snuggly in the arches I think they are just right. I want to eventually fit some red band tyres once all the other work is complete

 

That sits just right! Changes the whole at***ude your car projects, bad ***!! Your running boards are almost parallel with the ground. Looks Great!! I've decided to build a rollbar to meet or exceed NHRA rules, in case I ever get lucky enough to have grandkids!! Thanks again for your help. Keep posting!

 

Like your coupe in the advatar

 

Spot on!
Looked fine before, did you just lower the back, change springs?
1&13/16" is an odd dimension for round tubing, closest common here is 1.750, did you actually use a caliper or eyeball it with a tape measure.
Dumb question time, is your tubing commonly called out in inches or millimeters?

 

At the new height do you get rubbing on the inside of the front fenders?

 

The front wasn’t changed only the rear but no issues with tyre to fender clearance on full lock

 

Thanks, the coil overs were just relocated on to the lowest mount but I needed the exhaust modified as it was too close to the axle

 

Thank you I’m very pleased with it. It’s amazing how one small change can make such a difference, I just couldn’t live with it the way it was

 

You have a good eye. The little things make all the difference, sets your car apart from the others. What next?

 

I’m giving the engine a bit of a make over as I don’t like the dress up goodies on it at the moment. Going for a more traditional style, finned ally parts, parts have been ordered and will swap them out when I get them, hopefully next couple of weeks. In addition to the steering changes it’s currently got a Unisteer rack which I’m going to change out to a Borgeson Vega box. In the photo of the steering wheel you will see a digital tacho on the dash. The rest of the dash is very cool with SW wings gauges, I’m going to replace the existing tacho with a matching clock to fill the hole and get a column mount tacho cup and SW tacho, the interior, the list goes on but I’m enjoying turning in to the way I want it.

 

I'm going to California for my holiday in June and hope to pick up most of these parts then

 

Sounds like you are a man who knows what you want. But with good taste. I plan on no chrome in the engine compartment, I want it to look like the engine came out of a 60's chevy, 327, and dropped right in the coupe. Just clean. My wife and I were discussing our vehicle needs for our new home. Well my faithful 2002 S10 goes bye-bye. we are going to look at a 2005 Suburban 4x4. Talk about from one extreme to another. Hope my depth perception hasn't gone!! I thought those Unisteer racks were unbeatable, just by dumb luck I put in the Borgeson Vega box also. Can't wait to get your input after you change the steering box. I'm sure you will be on the road way before me. My son bought me the traditional 5 gauge panel for my dash, plan on using SW standard gauges, (mechanical).

 

The engine sounds very cool and love that dash panel. The main problem with the Unisteer is that the turning circle is rubbish and much worse than a Vega box that’s the main reason I’m going to swap it out. I live in a very narrow lane and if I don’t set the coup up in exactly the right position when I pull out of the T Junction at the end of my road I can’t do it in one sweep! Here’s a photo of the engine as it is currently



These are the air intakes that are winging their way to the UK

Here’s another shot of my dash before I changed the steering wheel and column


And the column mount tacho cup I’m going to get when I visit the US in June

 

I must be getting old, that engine looks great but it's hard to keep it that way. I did not know the Unisteer had a limited turn radius. I see where that could be a pain, and embarr***ing when you must back up and start a turn again just to make it around a corner.
Are you planning on getting different valve covers?
I'm not sure where to put the tach(o) in my coupe. I have fond memories of a Dixco tach I had in my 57' chevy. I have seen some on Ebay. Not the one with painted stripes, just plane chrome.

 

Yes, it looks very good but not the style I’m after. I’m changing the valve covers, breathers, air filters and have a nice finned oil filter cover, the oil sump, and a few of the bolts on the engine such as header bolts etc

 

Splitbudaba (and all you other guys) the car(s) on this thread rule!!

daveh1932 - Make sure you carry LOTS of sun block as the last time I was at the June swap it was 50°C !!

Carry on fellas..
Dave

 

Thanks for the tip

 

Congratulations on your retirement !!

 

"daveh1932" I really like those seats. Do you have a link or seller information. Or the brand/model? I have looked and couldnt find any with the rounded back. Thanks