Technical Crossmember for TH350 on a 50 Chevy

Does someone have pics of the type of crossmember they use on a 49-52 Chevy car for a TH350 transmission? I know you can buy a mount but I would like to see if anyone has done it differently. Either way, I would love to see pics please.

 

You can use the stock 49-54 mount and a small plate. Worksgood

 

I originally did that with my older 3 speed transmission, but because the th350 pan is wider at the bottom, is hitting the sides of my stock crossmember. I been trying all night cutting away more but I can't seem to get the cut off wheel in there. My other thought was to cut all the rivets off the crossmember, remove it and buy an aftermarket, but I'm also having a hard time cutting the rivets as I don't have an air chisel .

 

I did this:

 

Don't need an air chisel. Grind the heads off, drill the center of the rivet out and use a punch to drive it out. The hole in the middle of the rivet will allow it to collapse just a bit and it should drive right out. Waltons Fab makes a daisy of a crossmember!

 

Nice work

 

First 54 I did I used the turbo and it cleared. But I set the trans mount before installing the front motor mounts. This 54 I used waltons. Rivets are tough. Grind drill and air chisel.
Using the stock crossmember would make transmission removal difficult. Ch***is Eng. had a kit where you used and modified the original crossmember.

 

Thanks everyone for your input. I started removing the rivets this morning with an air chisel. What a pain in the *** I may add. We only have one side removed and it's still stuck. Darn rivets are a pain. Probably will go with waltons crossmember.

 

Pretty much identical to what I do.

 

After the drill grinding and air chisel work. I took the sawal and cut the crossmember twice.
Came out with a BFH.

 

If Chevy had just used bolts instead of those damn rivets.... I am going to try and remove mine in one piece, rework it to take a T700, and bolt it back in. I have removed those rivets before, but used several sized drill bits to drill them out, a little at a time, after cutting off the heads. It ain't fun.

 

I see that the tunnel cover was removed. Is this because the ****** did not cleared?

 

I have put both TH350's and 700R4's under, without cutting the floor.

 

Actually I cut it too fast. There is room for ******. Now when it is cutted off I'll weld it together with other two covers so if I want to remove covers it'll can be picked in one piece.

 

Good to know. I was not ready to remove my tunnel cover.

 

After removing the stock crossmember, I had more than enough room to put the ****** in. I just ordered the Waltons tubular one.

 

So after putting on the new crossmember I noticed that it's way off. As you can see on my pics the bottom plate end holes don't line up and there's also a huge gap up and down. It almost seems like the rubber boot it's too thick. I already lifted the ****** all the way up where it's literally hitting the top of the crossmember and it still doesn't meet. Do I have the wrong rubber piece? Is my motor maybe too far forward or too far back and that's why nothing lines up?

 

The "K" legs from the frame have to wrap around the bottom of the Walton's crossmember and then they are welded to the crossmember. You don't have the crossmember slid far enough forward it looks like to me. Its difficult to tell from the pictures.....Can you get some pictures of where the crossmember bolts onto the frame?

 

What Rmonty said. You need to move the whole thing forward several inches.

 

I will get more pictures. Thabk you.

 

That crossmember looks nothing like the one I got from Waltons. Sorry for the blurry pic...

 

Here's a better view. I can't go any more forward as the tubing from the crossmember already is all the way in.

 

It looks to me like you don't have the same crossmember as I have in my 1952 project. There are two listed and I believe this is the one you need. If you notice the crossmember doesnt have the tubes sticking out of it.Call over to Waltons and talk to them. They are great people and will make it right I'm sure.

I should mention that I am using a T-5 transmission. So it may be different for the TH350. ???

http://www.waltonfabrication.com/19trcrkit1.html

 

I remember now that I had to take a measurement to get the correct crossmember from them. Did you read this page before ordering?

 

Well, I did noticed that both crossmembers that they carry calls for the same years 49-54. The only difference was the 199.00 kit comes with the rubber boot. I didn't need it so in went with the 189 set. However, I did noticed that the 199 does not have the tubes for the rails. Either way I figure out a way to make it work. I just need to drill new holes on the crossmember for the bottom plate. I did find this pic of another car like mine and he's also using the same type I am.

 

Looks like you got it figured out then....this is a good thing!

 

I just checked out your transmission thread. Your engine is a 250? This is why the crossmember isnt lining up like it should I will bet. I think the 250 may be a bit longer, but someone that knows for sure may chime in.

 

Thanks Rmonty, I got it all done today. I drilled new holes and it worked fine. I removed the jack and ****** is good. Next I need to figure out where to hook up the kick down cable. I have no idea where it goes on my 1bbl carb, or what bracket I would need.