Technical Fiberglass

Never worked with fibergl*** before. How do I fill the holes from where the scoop used to be ? Is it as simple as sanding and laying down fibergl*** mat or is there more to it ? Thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

Are you just filling the small drilled holes, or wanting to close over the entire opening?

 

You will need to sand the area down and divot the holes, so they don't show after painting. You either use filler with fibergl*** in it, or get some fibergl*** matt and cut it up to make short "hairs" and mix with resin, to fill, and lay some mat on top.

 

grind the area around the hole to below the surface about 2X to 3X the diameter of the hole (don't go through the 'gals but no problem with being really thin. Also completely sand the bottom of the area around the hole on the underneath side. Then simply apply a later of resin mat on the top and on the bottom and let it set. should end up just below the finished surface so you can bondo and sand to perfection without 'glas coming through. sand flat, bondo and finish. Pretty simple actually, don't be afraid.

 

No need to get into mat and resin if you are just trying to fill the holes. Get a longstrand reinforced filler prep the holes as above and apply the filler.

 

Countersink the top and bottom of the holes, put masking tape over the lower side of the holes, mix a small batch of resin, drip some in each hole till slightly overfilled ( resin shrinks when dry), you can cut up some matt in also, cut 1/8 inch strands of matt and add to resin. Let it dry, sunshine helps or heat. When hard sand away, maybe some filler, not to much, expansion rates are different, holes might show up when heated. Prime sand and paint.

 

Just filling small holes.

 

Thanks guys, also the whole hood is full of cracks as seen near holes. Is it just the paint cracking or the gl*** ? What grit should I start with for the holes and cracks ?

 

Determine how deep the cracks go, paint, primer, jell coat, or the gl*** itself, Grind it off, and fill away. Use 220 to determine how deep you should go. If it's deep, use 60 grit, sand down, repair, maybe even resin and start over with the painting process.

 

Can get away with just bondo for sure . . .but. I have had it pop out. A little resin/mat patch makes the repair bullet proof, part of the 'glas itself. Whole process takes way less than 1/2hr, get the smallest patch kit at hardware store or auto parts store. Really pretty easy and no doubt the fix is permanent. Use any co**** grit, 80 -100 is fine, main goal is to totally abrade the surface so whatever repair product you choose will adhere.

 

Thanks again guys, going to start on my 3rd ever at home paint job and this one has a fibergl*** hood. Now I know how to start on the fibergl***.

 

Well took your advice and jumped in, so far so good.


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.