Technical Making a spacer

So....looking to pick some brains here, I've swapped rear ends in my 36 ford pickup, removed a too wide gm ten bolt, and replaced it with a ford 8.8 ranger rear. The driveshaft is 3/4 of an inch too short, and rather than building a new one, I'd like to make an 3/4 aluminum spacer mounted on the pinion flange of the 8.8.
The pinion flange is flat, the u joint yoke bolts to it with four cap screws, has a machined ring in it that fits over a corresponding raised portion on the pinion flange, that centers the yoke, I can't see a problem, but maybe you guys can? And why?
I'll have the identical setup machined with the proper groove and raised portion, (gotta pay someone), but it seems the easy way out.

 

Long as everything is centered. I don't see a problem with a spacer.

 

The farther away from the axle centerline you get with your U joint, the more likely any vibration will whip the pinion and the axle. But, I don't know if 3/4" is really enough to make a difference. It's worth a try if you have a machinist that can do a nice flat piece. Make sure to clean all traces of rust from those parts to allow a tight fit (less wobbles).

 

There are different length transmission yokes available. I know Speedway used to carry a variety, and probably other vendors as well. Might be a better option, and maybe cheaper?

 

Quite common with the offroad/rock crawler crowd when they jack up their trucks. Check E-bay you might find what you need already made.

 

Looks pretty straightforward, made stuff like this for 30 years as a machinist for myself, friends, workmates, etc.
To do it only once (and pay only once), if at all possible have the machinist do the measuring, even if you have calipers, etc. I can't count the number of times I made parts (and remade) from dimensions supplied by an individual that were wrong.
Close only counts in horseshoes!

 

2007-2017 Dodge chargers and possibly more brands have rubber “u-joints” front and rear.
Weird deal. And yes they break under heavy use. i.e. squad cars.....

 

I don't want to use a longer ****** yoke, there is enough play there that the extra leverage will eventually break something over time, this old girl has been a hiway flier all her twenty year life with more to come. I changed the rear so I'd have more selection for wheels, I was stuck with the reverse offset steelies I've run for so long.

 

Steel spacer with an innie and outie lip.

 

Thanks loads guys, I was gonna try this but decided to look for some opinions first. That's why I frequent this board, lotsa skill here.

 

Aluminum would work if you don't beat the **** out of the truck. I have a Bridgeport so this sort of thing is easy for me. I would pin the block to the flange using 1/8" or 5/32" roll pins. 2 places is fine, just to keep the 2 pieces together.

 

You say there is play in there? If that flange has some up/down play, the pinion bearings are loose and won't last long, and it will start leaking. If you are going to have to pay someone to make a spacer, go find a longer driveshaft and have it shortened to the correct length... Cheaper than getting one lengthened.

Sent from my Moto G Play using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Whatever they charge to put a longer tube in your driveshaft, I'd charge double to make the aluminum spacer. Just because it takes me so long.

btw those are trick bolts that hold the flange on, make sure you get proper longer replacements.

 

There's usually 8 bolts holes in the pinion flange, 2 patterns.
Could bolt the spacer to the pinion flange - Then bolt the drive shaft to the spacer.

 

There is a minor amount of play in the trans tailshaft, a longer yoke acts like a cheater bar and will take out the seal on the trans tailshaft over time. The rear has 30,000 miles on it, I took it apart, checked the unit out, it's like new.
The spacer is the easy way out for me, I don't have the equipment or desire to shorten a shaft, this is a combination that has been together since 1997, when I built the truck I was broke, used what I had, including the ten bolt that was in it, then modified the wheels to fit under the rear fenders, you could never get your fingers between the fender lip and the tire, so, after twenty years changed the rear end. The material for the spacer is minor cost, the lathe work will be a donation to my friends favourite cause, I doubt I'll have a hundred bucks in the change over. After the spacer, the overall length of the pinion will be the same, with the driveshaft pulled out of the ****** one inch. The aluminum spacer is lighter than a steel spacer would be by a considerable amount, and properly secured should be not noticeable after it's painted black.
I really appreciate all the opinions over this, some of you I respect greatly, you're the "run what you brung crowd" repairing or building your own stuff, I'm no piker myself, been doing this a long time, but due to age and a heart condition, I'm tapering off just a bit.
Vicky, I hadn't thought about bolting the spacer to the pinion flange, good idea, makes the whole setup more as one unit as it was originally. That's why I asked the question, pick up others good ideas, and run with them, Thanks guys.

 

Actually type of aluminum is important. I probably would not use softer aluminum than T-6061 for the job.

 

And a drop of small screw threadlocker on each one.

 

Is 11/16 close enough to 3/4 for you?
On a whim I found this, maybe there's more out there

 

there you go.

 

"Ask, and ye shall receive". I do believe Vicky came up with the solution. Well done.

 

See, we do need a little of topic stuff to get the job done sometimes ( just a little)
I saw mustang and thought my iPad was going to blow up or delete itself. I guess it worked ok.

 

Thank you Vicky, now that I see it offered commercially it lets me know it's not a hokey idea. Still gonna make one, to get that shipped here in the frozen north makes making one affordable. If I lived closer to the border, maybe......

 

I only have aircraft type aluminum around the shop. 6061-T6 and some 7075.

 

Man I have not even touched 7075 in about 15 years or so. As I recall cost wise that stuff is higher than a cats back.

 

I sometimes have leftovers from paying jobs, it comes in handy. I always order some excess material on any job I do.

 

The Mopars that use the rubber donut are independent rear suspenion and the differential case is attached to the ch***is and does not move, unlike a ‘live’ axle the OP is working with. Huge difference there.

Ray

 

You've got quite a machinist friend if you can get this accomplished (material, bolts, beer) for less than the one Vicky found (nice find).
I didn't imagine one was available commercially and was leaning toward a new driveshat.

 

T6 is high temper! Might be the choice.