Hello All HAMB-bers! I’m new to the HAMB and new owner to an all original ‘52 Styleline Deluxe. I have been around the hot rod/custom scene for sometime, but never owner anything until now. So I’m coming to you guys for some answers to some loaded questions, which I’m simply looking for input/discussions. Not looking to spark any thread riots! I’d like to get a few things done once we start to thaw out in the upper Midwest/my garage that isn’t insulated or heated! Here is a small list of what I’d like to do come spring and I’d like to hear some feedback. -Drop spindles and possibly cutting a coil or two to lower the front. -3” blocks in the rear. -Split manifold with dual exhaust. (Uncertain on which manifold/mufflers I want yet) -Dual carb intake. -Wide whites (uncertain on bias ply or radial yet) I’ve been doing my homework and scoured many threads here, but a lot are dated 5+ years ago for last comments. So with the knowledge at hand, let’s hear some feedback on set-ups guys are running today and what works/doesn’t and why. I’ve tossed a few pictures of the old gal as she sits now so everyone knows what I’m working with. Thanks everyone!
Sweet Score! Love the Color. Everything you've listed for Mods, I've just done. It's all highlighted in my '49 FrankenStyle Build Thread. But also, feel free to ask for any specifics. I Build a vehicle every 2-years for fun and enjoy the process of hunting Procedures, Parts, and Prices, so I've already done all the homework! Have Fun!
Thanks and I’ve went through your entire build process @FrankenRodz and it’s awesome! Very informational and you’ve gotten me hooked on that orange you used for the roof, ****** and block. Looks great contrasted with the green. And that brown color on the dash is primo! What drop spindles did you end up going with and did you only use lowering blocks in the rear or did you remove a leaf/de-arch the pack? What are your thoughts with Williams split manifolds vs. Fenton’s? Also, what mufflers did you end up using because I am going for a more throaty sound as opposed to the “pipe rapping” sound.
Thanks. I just swapped front coils with 3” Lowering Coils, using stock spindles and Shocks for 3” drop. For the rear, just 3” Blocks with Shocks. Two guys jumping up and down on bumpers, and the car is very taught. The thought was to lower the m***, increasing handling, without going too crazy. (It’s not a race car). I’ve done this in the past and seems adequate for a big bomber. I’ve used both Fenton and Williams and see no difference. The Exhaust Kit came with the Williams Headers, Pipes and Mufflers for $600 shipped. No name Mufflers, but they are rich barking sound. We were all shocked at the tone. (Sound is huge for all my builds). I’ll post video when I can.
For lowering it in the front, the cheap, easy, and very effective way to do it is with a set of MOOG 8542 springs and Monroe 555001 shocks. Cut one half of a coil off and put the springs in. then replace the shocks with the new shorter Monroe shocks, and install some new bump stops. The Moog 8542 springs are for a Mustang II or Pinto and fit perfect, plus they cost about 65 bucks. I bought mine from Jegs, because they had the cheapest price. Shocks are about 50 bucks each. add some new bump sops for 15 bucks, and you can drop the front end of your car almost 3 inches for les than the cost of a pair of drop springs. I did this route and my 51 drives and rides awesome and really changed the stance for the better. sorry for the ****py quality, but here is mine after the spring swap, and 1.5 inch block in the back on a Ch***is Engineering rear spring kit.
Did the geometry change at all? I know that was a hindrance for some and finding a place to align the front end was, in some places, a real bear. I’m open to any and all solutions to bring this gal closer to the pavement!
Not a big fan of Cutting Coils. No offense. $120.00 DFK4954 FCS4954D3 POL 3" Drop Front Coil Spring Set. $ 80.00 FS4954 POL Front 3" Drop Shock Absorber. The Exhaust Kit is available from several sources, National Chevy, Chevy's of the 40s, Ecklers. $600.00 for Headers, Pipes, Hangers, Mufflers.
Unfortunately my car is buried a****st a bunch of Winter Storage rides. But hey, it pays the bills! Hoping to get in moved in to the Fab Room at the Shop, and when that happens I'll fire it up and take a video.
I do agree that cutting coils isn’t the first option that I would go for, but that’s why I started this thread was to see what guys have done, how it worked, what they would do differently, etc. I did see the kit through Natinonal Chevy and I will most likely buy that kit from them since I live nearby and prefer to support local business if possible. No worries about the video! I just figured I’d give it a listen because the itch to drive my car isn’t bad enough already!
Heard that! Although I did get the most authentic 50s test drive possible. I took her down the snowy back roads of Minnesota to make sure it shifted properly and ran decent. Nothing shows you how it used to be until you give it a whirl
Some spring mfrs. actually wind longer 'wire' than spec, (as some of their offerings have to be longer or shorter, with the same winding ratio, wire diameter, and total diameter) New springs are then cut to spec, or 'flat-wound', dependent on application. If cutting coils to a 'new spec', do it with a cutoff wheel, rather than oxy-acet. torch. I don't like cutting coils either, IF it's 2 to 2-1/2 coils, but 1/2 coil to fit the application isn't going to make a significant difference in 'stiffness', as there are typically 12 coils in a 'wound torsion bar'.
I’m cool with stiffness because that means I’m not bottoming out on the bump stops. The biggest thing I have an issue with is trying to find a shop that will align the front end of the geometry of thrown off from where it’s at now. I have had a lot of buddies find a few shops that will do it, but it’s expeanive because they can’t guarantee their new equipment being used on such an old car. So I’d rather not spend the money unless it’s absolutely necessary. Again, I’m fairly new to the scene, so if there are better options I’m open. I’d rather spend the money to do it right than to half *** it and re-do it.
Got out in the garage tonight to put the new tank up, in-line fuel filter on before I take the carb off, and a few other odds before the garage got real cold. Other than the new tank straps being 2-3” too short, the fuel neck line/breather line being cut too short from the place I bought them, and smacking my face on the spare tire well I’d say it went alright. Wasn’t able to ****on anything up other than the fuel filter, but you ain’t winning if you ain’t crossing the finish line in reverse!
Well I got out into the garage today seeing as we are sitting steadily in the 40s during the day finally. Bought a complete gasket kit for the car, new bulbs for the tail lights and dash, a new brake light switch, (the brake lights are not currently working, only the running lights) and upper/lower radiator hoses to figure out if it’s leaking from the radiator itself or from the hoses. When I pull that I’ll probably do the water pump gasket. Here is the progress: the other culprit of exhaust leakage! At least it was close to tight. And yes I did remove the but on the side easiest to get to while on the car. Only had about 4 threads a piece. All in all it was a decent day out there. Only busted one bolt that holds the intake manifold onto the exhaust manifold and used about a half can of PB Blast haha. Since the exhaust is so hacked together, and I was going to do it anyways, there may be a split manifold and dual exhaust in the near future. Might as well do it now when I put the new gaskets on right? Hopefully the warden gives the aok to spend the money.
Got out to my buddy’s place Saturday night to drank some beers, sand blast some stuff, rebuilt the carb and made a plate for the bottom of the intake manifold when I run the new split manifold hopefully this week. Weatherman is calling for 8-10 inches of snow tomorrow into Tuesday so shipments might be a little delayed! All in all a successful night with the boys!