Projects Cutting my Hotrod Teeth (57 Chevy Budget build/revival)

I simply open all the wheel cyl bleed valves. Then fill the master cyl. and let gravety do the job. after fluid starts leaking from a bleed valve close it. then do the same to the remainder as they fill. Then I get someone to pump the brakes until they get pedal. Then open the bleed valve farthest from the master cyl. And continue the mash it & hold it until no more air bubbles excape. Then bleed the next farthest from the master cyl. and continue until every wheel cyl has been bled. Yes it wastes fluid. But it also flushes the entire system with fresh clean fluid. and you know for certain that every wheel cyl is receiving fluid pressure.

 

You also may want to check your universal joints...wouldn't hurt to put new ones in....

 

Good news and bad news, i did get some time time to work on the car but not very much, first my buddys mustang threw a rod, i had to help him get home then my mom ran over a dead deer and so i had to give her a ride to go get a rental car so my weekend got very busy. My daily driver also has developed a bad exhaust leak in the cab so i’m more concerned with fixing that than the belair right now,


That being said i messed with my alternator mount because i was not happy with where it was at and since i have the new manifold i want to do it right. I messed with the timing for about an hour and just can’t get it right. It sounds like t wants to start but it’s definitely off time a bit still. I also have an uncle who has family in mexico and i’m very soon going to be the owner of a Mexican blanket for the front bench seat. It’s the real deal! Pretty stoked about that and i’ll try to get some more done next weekend again but school and other things are really taxing right now so we’ll see.

 

I'll take them. What are they? LOL

 

About your timing...one thing to remember is number 1 firing position is different from a points distributor.....to a hei distributor..and vice a versa....I was wondering if that could be your problem...don't ask how I know...would it be possible for you to take picture with the distributor cap off with motor on tdc..

 

Expand a little on this theory. I would like to know more about this and probably so would pineapple???

 

I got news for you the engine doesn't know or care where the distrubuter rotor is pointing. The only thing is when you have number one piston at TDC with both valves closed. Is wherever the rotor is pointing you make that terminal on the dist cap number one. just run the spark plug wire from that terminal where the rotor is pointing to number one spark plug. and go from there. It will run just fine. I suspect pineapple has a engine with crusty valves. dry lifters and possibly a loose timing chain. And that's why its not starting .

 

I was trying to be nice to Ringgap. Wondering where that statement came from!!!

 

Okay let's say your a novice and and you are looking at a picture of a small block distributor with the spark plug wire going to the plugs and your using that picture to see where # 1 plug is on the distributor.....are you looking at a hei distributor or points distributor because #1 is different if you are looking at a picture...between a points diagram or a hei diagram.....yes I know you can make any one be #1 if you know what your doing...so I was wondering if he looking at wiring diagram because #1 is different from a points diagram to a hei diagram...

 

Love the blankets I used some like that on an f100 seat once. Turned out real good


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I can’t get a current picture but i did switch from hei to points. I’ll try again next time i get a chance, but i still think the distributor is the problem, i’m getting it to fire, just not at the right time. When i first put the points in, i may not have actually been at tdc is what i’m thinking. I did line up the rotor with the #1 cylinder and the timing mark with 0 on the timing plate but did not check the valves.


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This

But is this the rule to follow? Yes and No. What's important is where #1 plug wire on the cap is in relation to where the rotor is when top dead center is achieved on the compression stroke. Meaning #1 can be anywhere and the other seven only need to follow the leader. This is how the illustration above is possible. The reason for the HEI to be wired different in my opinion is so fewer wires need to cross over to the other bank and none need to be routed behind the cap either.

 

Try this. Place your timing mark at the balancer on 12* BTDC on the timing tap instead of 0*. This often helps greatly.

 

So i’m thinking about what i did to put the distributor in and i’ve got a question. The oil pump drive is driven by the cam, right? So when putting the distributor in it doesnt matter if you don’t get it lined up with the distributor, correct? When you turn the engine over, the distributor falls down into place, but if it’s a tooth or so off timing with the cam gear, would that mess up the install? I guess what i’m asking is do i need to turn the oil pump manually at all? Or just get tge engine on tdc, drop in the distributor and then turn it over to get it to drop into the right place?


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As long as the cam and distributor are lined up so the gears mesh, the oil Pump will be fine.

 

There are many tricks that you'll learn as time goes by. For now try the screw driver (BIG and LONG if you let go of it you'll still be able to get to it back ) trick. You can turn the oil pump shaft just a little (and a little more and more as need be) until you get everything to fall into place.

 

Any tips on getting a tight rubber hose over a metal lip? I’m trying to get the tank in and the fill hose doesnt want to get over the fill tube. I’ve got the fuel line in from the pump back to the tank but just need to get the tank in


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Try a little bit of WD 40 sprayed inside the hose for lubrication. If that doesn't work warm it up a bit with a heat gun, hair dryer if that is all you have.

 

Ice the metal tip and soak the hose in boiling water, then when each has reacted to the temperatures, hose SHOULD slide on.

 

Quick update, just took the distributor out and took off the valve cover, got it on TDC by watching the valves and got it all timed as close as i can reasonably get it.

This all happened just as the battery died again, it’s on the charger while i work on getting the gas tank in.


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She runs! Got charged the battety for a bit, poured some gas in the vent tube on the carb and the 283 roared to life for a few seconds


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Yeah Yeah Yeah....so says you! Without a video it didnt happen! We KNOW you know how to post videos.....so get to videoing and share the excitement of hearing it roar to life!

 

I think he's still dreaming at the wheel.

 

Great and congrats...do not touch anything until you get the tank in and gas in it so you can run it for awhile. Did you hook up the radiator???

 

I did put the radiator in and it doesnt leak but i took out the heater core so i’m gonna have to put some hoses on it so water doesnt go everywhere. For some reason my Stewart warner oil gauge isn’t working which is a bummer. Hopefully i can get that gas tank in before dark and go find a 14 inch tire or i’ll have to wait till morning to drive it around the block. Don’t wanna make all the neighbors go deaf


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You don't need to hook the heater lines to it, just byp*** the core and run the hose from the inlet to the outlet on the engine with whatever you have and it will only need two clamps. The heater core might leak too if you hook it up. Just get the car running for now. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE BRAKES! Before you put it in gear to move it or disaster could be just around the first clutch release. Good you got it running just don't get too excited let us all do that for you now.

 

Dude, the steering wheel was blocking your **** eating grin

Good job!

 

the only thing better than bringing an engine back to life is that first drive around the block. Congrats! Your gonna have some fun now!