I just bought this truck, its pretty much original, nothing has been done to it. Any ideas? examples? I want to do a switch over to a V8 and automatic transmission. also thinking of a chop 3" or so. will probably smooth out the tailgate and do a custom rear bumper with set in taillights and plate. Any pointers on any of this would be moucho gratis.
www.stovebolt.com Don't mess up that tailgate. You can buy a smooth one for less tha that one's worth if it's as clean as it looks. Nice truck.
If the truck is running or can be made to run, I'd suggest you spend your money first on the brakes and rebuilding the front suspension and steering box. These trucks were bought to be used for work and most suspensions got worked to death. The #1 complaint about these old chevy trucks are the brakes. Disc conversion is nice and highly recommended if you go to an 8 but a rebuild of the stock system is adequate with the 6. Your also going to have to do something with the rear end gearing to enjoy it on the street. Either "Patrick's" gearing, or installing a Borg Warner overdrive from a 50's-60's chevy or a rear end swap from a later model truck. Everybody runs a small block, you might like the 6 if you drive it for awhile...maybe not.
Thanks guys, I was planning on the brakes and electrical update first, I wasn't sure about the rear end because it is the 3/4 ton. If i do stay with the flat 6, won't i have to keep the manual ******? Just rebuild's on the front suspension and steering? what about a power steering set up?
Cl***ic Performance Products has the suspension and brakes stuff you want. keep the straight axle...If i had known better ( I'm HAMB educated now) I would have....
1970's camaro rears fit in them really nice. I have a dropped straight axle, 1959 235 straight six and the stock rear in my 48. It's OK for chasing parts around town but the stock gearing makes it almost impossible to drive on the highway and the stock brakes ****. A mustang II and open driveline make them much more enjoyable.
Most of the common modification parts, like the disk brake conversions and the rear gear kits, are for 1/2-ton trucks, not 3/4-ton trucks. Don't run out and buy any of those kits without first figuring out how you will adapt it to your 3/4-ton. The motor is an inline six, not a flathead 6. When you talk to those who know they are laughing behind your back, if not to your face, when you get that wrong. If its the original motor its a 216 with splash oiling. The splash oiling bothers some people but the motors seem to run reliably if properly maintained. There are a couple of adapter plates that will adapt the modern rear-drive Chevy automatics to the stock motor. About $400 last I knew. The drop out differential unit used in this truck is the same type used up until about 1970 in 3/4-ton trucks. The importance of that is that some of them had much higher gear-sets, and that is a easy swap. Suburbans with automatics are the most likely place to find the best gears. There are several approaches to power steering, but the kits are all designed for 1/2-tons. I'm sure they could be adapted, but it might require some fabrication. One area to think about is how you will mount a power steering pump. One way to get disks on the front is to swap your 3/4-ton axle for a 1/2-ton axle, and then use a 1/2-ton disk kit with 5- or 6-lug disks. Then choose a rear axle with the same bolt pattern. Plus you could more easily use one of the power steering kits too. Back to motors: '54 and later 235s have pressure oil. The one used in a '54 or '55 1st pickup should swap into your pickup with few changes. Later motors, through 1962, use a longer water pump. Use your original bellhousing if you are staying with the standard trans as the bellhousing mounts changed in '54. If you can find one, the 261 is a larger version of the 235. Another easy engine option is a GMC motor. The 270 and 302 are both strong motors with pressure oil and some fun traditional hop up parts available. The '63 and later sixes are a different design, and similar to a V-8 in mounting and bellhousing requirements. A V-8 swap means some steering box modifications because of box/exhaust interference. Check www.StoveBolt.com for lots of good information on these trucks. While you'll get better advice on 'traditional' rods here, you'll often find more accurate tech information on these trucks over there. My daily driver is a '55 1st GMC Suburban with a 270, stock granny gear 4-speed, and a GM 10-bolt with 3.08 gears. I have front disks, rear drums, no power brakes and no power steering. It works pretty good on my mixed city and 2-lane highway commute. Someday I probably will swap to a V-8 and automatic, but it won't be because the stock stuff doesn't do the job most the time.
wow.... the info is coming in hard and fast, old sub thanks for your advise and opinions. I will remember to refer to the powerplant as a 'inline 6' to avoid behind the back laughing. So if I switch out the rear axl with a late model 1/2 ton the lug pattern will be the same as the front disk systems available? Sorry for all the stupid questions... the truck aint green, but I am! oh yeah.... and to chop or not?????
Chop or not isn't an area where I can help much. I've never done it and don't know that I have the nerve to try. My opinion is to work on one area at a time. Do the body first, then the suspension, or do the suspension first then the body. Start both and you may never finish either. But that's just my opinion. I have one that's been apart for four years and may be more than that from being finished... When you say 'late model' 1/2-ton you are covering a lot of ground. The 5-lug pickup pattern is not the same as any of the 5-lug disk kits I've seen. The 6-lug pickup pattern is the same as the 6-lug kits. The newest truck I've ever owned is an '89 1-ton, and I can't claim to know a lot about the current stuff.
I have been talking to some local car 'types' and now I am pondering a body swap on a newer vehicle. One guy says i can put this body on a full size truck from the 70s or 80s and have the engine, trans and rearend I want, plus the power brakes and power steering I want. Another guy says a Chevy S-10 frame will work. Any ideas or opinions on this? anybody done it? Sounds like an easy enough job and cheaper than buying all new parts.
I'm doing the s-10 swap now. It works for me. Do a search of the TECH ARCHIVES on this board. ....lots of great info and pictures.
wow! thanks flipper, great tech tips there... I wonder if the difference between the 3100 and my 3600 is going to be an issue. doesn't it have a longer whellbase than the 3100?
How is that turning out for you? I am about to start doing one for my wife pretty soon. Post some progress pics if you can.
Mine was a 3/4 ton , but it was a flatbed....so I could be off a little on wheelbase and nobody will know. This is where we are now.
My opinion: CHOP IT! I chopped mine 3.5". Smooth tailgate, homemade roll pan, Mustang II, 9" on S-10 leaf springs, 406 SBC, TH-350. These trucks look great with a little work and imagination. Good luck with yours! Chris
I finished up my 50 on a S10 frame 2 months ago and has been my daily driver for 3 weeks. Good ride,handling,safe,and you can just about get parts for 'em at your local party store. Its a shame I have to sell this early in the season, Its an awesome ride
Been there, done that, starting to re-do it. I've got a 52 1/2 ton that I did a complete frame off that I started about 15 years ago and took about 5 years getting it back on the road. I put in a new front floor, inner/outer cowls, kick panels, bed wood/strips, gl***, upholstry, rubber, wiring harness, brakes. Basically everything but the motor and trans (57-62 235 and 4spd). Life, kids, house, work, and time have all taken a toll on my poor truck which is currently just a big redneck lawn ornament. Now that my son is old enough to start turning wrenches I'm lookin to go through and rebuild it. I've got an extended cab S-10 ch***is on the way for it and plan to install a 67 283 that I have on the shop floor. Feel free to PM me if you need any help.
www.AD-Engineering.com Go to this web site, they make a kit to mount a 1947 1953 Chev. GMC. TRUCK ON A 112" S 10 ch***is. I have a 1993 S 10 short wheel base (108")ch***is that I am going to mount a 1947 Chev. on. I like the short wheel base look. I plan on either moving the fenders or shorting the box to make it fit. Good luck. Bob
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