Technical ***March 2018 Banger Meet - Equinox Time***

I had a machine shop shorten my driveshaft. Cut a shoulder in one side and center bored the other to fit together the. They welded it up. I shorted my torque tube my self. I took all the material out of the straight part. I started by drawing a line down the tube. Then used my chop saw and cut it. I made sure I started the saw blade touching the line. So when I made the second cut I made sure if there was any angle on my cheap tool it would be the same. Then I chamfered the ends and clamped them of a big piece of angle iron making sure the line I drew lined up . Then welded it up. Hope that helps.

 

Save the date! It might be wise to pre-register as this event is growing rapidly in popularity.

 

Thanks John, that was the path I was getting ready to take other than I was going to try to mill new splines on the shortened drive shaft. I'll let you know how it turns out.


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fast is having a hill climb in auburn ca.

 

Right! We're recipients of the No. Cal. F.A.ST. newsletter. I've not gone to the Auburn events as they've so far been held on weekends that I've been racing elsewhere. However, there've been a number of Central Coast F.A.S.T. members that regularly go. My car and engine are not set up for straight, standing start racing. This photo is of the second turn (the "Andretti" at Laguna Seca) after the start. Ours is the car passing the 1931 Alfa Romeo #31 on the outside. Two ERA's are leading just ahead of us (out of the picture).

 

Now THAT'S cool!

Lynn

 

very cool . I would not hill climb it either

 

JOHN

I ALWAYS THOUGHT USING THE STEERING WHEEL TO GO LEFT AND RIGHT WAS ALWAYS MORE FUN THAT USING THE STEERING WHEEL TO GO STRAIGHT. NEITHER OF THOSE BMWS WERE CUSTOMERS OF MINE OR YOU WOULD HAVE HAS MORE OF A CHALLENGE THAN A DUMB OLD ALFA.

 

If you run an open drive with the t5 , make sure you add a torque rod from the qc to the front of the rear control arms
Skip

 

Noted, and thank you. I've seen numerous warnings that stock A radius rods by themselves were not intended to control torque, nor will they hold up to it. I'll definitely do something to handle the torque if I do end up going open driveline.

Thanks

Lynn

 

Yeah Jim! I usually put the "Beemers" away rather handily, including a lightweight 1935 special. Each time they shift, I gain a car length. However, to come out first a guy's gotta finish. I think had I been a customer of yours, I've finished more races!

 

I like my wires,but was thinking of changing them to white.
Skip

 

^ I'm not sure I would change anything^

 

Dustyp489..... I too think the PU looks great as-is. But, if you're considering a change on the wheel color, how about a rich cream color rather than stark white. Your call though. It's all about personal preferences.

Lynn

 

Havent checked in for awhile....getting ready to install 39 tranny this spring...a pic from the Santa Margarita time trials...slowest car there, but who cares. Will be going back this year as well as Auburn hill climbs.

 

ive seen this car in auburn . nice car & runs good for a heavy car .

 

If you run an open drive with the t5 , make sure you add a torque rod from the qc to the front of the rear control arms

I run simple hairpins front & rear with open drive shaft . I did find a small brace on top where hair pins bracket is mounted is insurance against torque trying to tear open the rear end .

 

We welded 1/4" stock on the stock wishbone seam and it has worked for 10 years.

 

Thanks....you introduced yourself there...always fun meeting HAMBers.

 

Do you have any pictures of how the wishbone front and rear ends look?

 

I used a set for a hill climber , straightened out & strengthen . hair pins are ez & clean



nice p/u .

 

Sorry it took a couple of days to get a picture. I haven’t measured the cc of the combustion chambers but they are smaller than about any I have seen. No number stamped on the pad and it had 14mm plug holes.




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Twisted my rear rods into two different direction. I am running Derek's QC and a T5, 3in drive shaft. Took VF4'S lead and got another pair of rods ,then reinforce them. Only had time for a short test run before parking the A for the winter. Come on spring
Skip

 

Couple questions
Installing a tube header and a fuel pump

Where can I purchase extended/longer studs for the headers/carb?
Edited: found them at Red’s

What thread size is the sediment bowl?
I’d like to remove it an run a hard line down to the frame rail to hide the fuel pump.

 

I used ‘40 radius rods on my coupe. I am running an closed drive shaft but the later rods are good because they are heavier than stock A ones. They mount underneath the axle so they work well with my frame with a Z in the rear. Here are a couple of pictures. I also had to show off my parking brake cable pass through I made too.




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I'm running a lion 3 speed head . it has great pull .
These IRON heads are (+ -) 135 cc chambers = approximately 7.3:1 compression ratio (CR).

the chambers maybe smaller than the Winfield . would have to cc both to know .

with lion head stock , pistons not coming out of deck ..... I have 126# per cylinder . not a math dude but like my head !!! ........... if you can tell me (out of curiosity) what you guys think ..........

 

you do nice work !

 

Very nice and thanks for the pictures. I want to modify my '28 and I'm looking for any ideas I can find. I'm thinking open drive line of some sort but who knows where I'll end up. I have a T-5 out of a Mustang I can use but I'm not decided yet. I know the '39 trans if staying in for this summer.