Found some wheels that might be cleaned up so I could use them, since I'm gonna be sandblasting loads of parts anyways. Could anyone identify these for me? Haven't been able to find a match, although I don't have much knowledge. Grandpa said they came from a department store or something at some point in like the 60s or 70s? Can't quite remember. Thanks
Like has already been said sell that engine to a Mustang person. You will be dollars ahead to buy a 302 roller motor for your car. To the right person that engine has a lot of value.
That's a really nice looking coupe body you're starting with. I've got a 30 coupe with an 85 Mustang 302 and a C-4 ****** that runs great. Motor is rebuilt and the ****** is a new one from TCI. It's also green and black, but pictures will have to be added later from the desktop. Take advice with a grain of salt, but one suggestion I definitely agree with is that you get in with some LOCAL hot rod guys. There's a lot more to a ground up build than most people realize. Good luck with it. Mike Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
Youre doing the right thing, getting advice. Youre in the middle of not much, that can be good and bad, got any junkyards. Get to know the local guys, they probably knew your grandpa.
there is the cash it in for a 302 thought... but for me I want the 289... even more rare, the 221 and 260's would be great but the engine to bellhousing pattern is for the 2 speed fordomatic... they only made 289's from mid '63ish to early '68... 302's were made from 1968 into the new century... my $.02.
That is incorrect about c4s , I had a 64 comet 5 bolt c4 , all I did was unbolt 5 bolt , switch to 6 bolt bolt it on and add 302 . 6 bolt small ring gear c4 bell housing and your good to go for a 302-351 C or W Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
What a pretty car this is about the color scheme I was gonna go for, just with a much more vibrant green, at least on my screen. Something like the color of this car, as well as the pinstripes that came stock, if I could find more info on placement.
Back in 1965 when I was a kid, I had a stock 1930 Model A two door sedan that had the same hood with panels just like a Chevy. It was completely stock down to the copper ignition strips and the hood fit and looked exactly like a Model A hood except for the panels.
The 'Vair suspension has been used before so it is no new thing. A little advice on the springs, when using 'Vair springs on a hot rod you swap ends with them the fronts on the rear and the rears on the front. I cannot tell much from the pics so I am going to be little help there.
My grandpa says he found a 3.25 gear ratio ring and pinion for our 9", and he found a guy that could probably restore our C4 transmission for around $1K or $800. He also told me he got the idea for the jaguar steering from hot rod magazine or 'rod and customs' (couldn't hear over phone?) magazine, probably around 1967 or 1968 or so. He also said it had step by step instructions with pictures. Also talked about replacing the cam and stuff, I'm fairly sure we're gonna have to replace it judging by what I saw under the engine, but he is definitely sure it'll be salvageable
I think I'm gonna go to the swap meet at Lone Star Park on March 30-31st. I'm new to all this, do the vendors sometimes allow trades of parts? I still have all those old spark plug wire sets and a few other small parts I could trade, considering I'm on a shoestring budget. I'll try and attach a photo If they will allow me to trade for it, how much are they usually worth? Like I said, new to all this and this is my first outing. Thanks!
This verifies the heads are HiPo as well as far as I can tell, I read online that the 2 dots over the 289 mean hipo, as well as the 21 that's cast into the front side of the block upside down. Engine might be from 1965 instead of 1966, due to the 65 printed on the heads, checked with grandpa and he said the engine block was black and not blue which would mean it was 1965. I'm out for the summer so I should have a lot more time to work on the car. I could not, however, find the VIN in the usual spot on the block. It might be rusted away or something, or stamped in an unusual location? Not sure.
pockets under the valve springs , only small block ford I know of that has them . Sorry , already talked about .
Really cool to be 17 and starting off with a nice A Coupe body, that was my dream at your age! Your Grandpa may have a case of "rose colored gl***es" it happens to a lot of us we put down our tools one day then 10-20-30 years go by but in our minds eye the car hasn't changed a bit lol! its all good as new right? he also probably spent a significant amount of time planning and building it up to what it is so he sees his "vision" as the simplest and best way to complete the car but I would go with this advice: Yeah scary..Don't endanger yourself and others with a sketchy front end that had minor popularity for a brief period a**** street rodders (not HAMB members) in the '80's. They ****ed in Corvairs so why bother? and Ackerman angle issues cause bumpsteer which is literally deadly....also consider the financial aspect of completely replacing every bushing, bearing and brake part on it... big $s compared to Model A spring/axle/wishbone set up I've been reading car mags a long time if Jag steering was ever popular it was a short lived craze and besides arent they right hand drive?...finding rebuild parts for an old jag also big $s... so try to break it to him that way (the money angle) maybe he'll be able to loosen his grip on the past when he realizes he could be sticking you with a decades long project if it has to be done his way I agree with this advice I would keep only the Body and maybe rear axle (except if it is actually a 9" from the same Mustang it too is valuable) your engine is covered in surface rust so your not just gonna unstick it and fire it up and the rear coil suspension is so dated and terrible for handling and wheel hop.....the frame could be reworked with a ton of time effort and redesigning...BUT a complete rolling model A ch***is could be found for as low as $350-$500. and a complete running smallblock chev/ford about the same so sell your Mustang junk buy a frame/eng. and you'll be 3/4s of the way there and have money left over....when I was 17 my argument to that would be well I already have this stuff and lots more energy and enthusiasm than money but I am offering you my 1st hand experience that losing interest entirely is a good possibility if you bite off more than you can chew
I found this, is it possible this is the original Hi-Po distributor? Not really sure. It doesn't seem to have the vacuum bit or anything.
That is not a HIPO distributer . The hole you see is where the vacuum advance was removed and the HIPO is a dual pint unit . If it were me dual points are not needed and the vacuum advance is a plus on driving the car at different engine speeds . Find a Dura Spark use GM module and early style cap and never look back
Everyone is telling him to sell what’s left of the HiPO, but nobody is telling him what it’s worth in that condition. This may help him make his mind up. Would really help if he had the HiPO exhaust manifolds. I know that stuff is high, but I don’t know how high. Could anyone give him an estimate of it value? Bones
KEEP THE HIPO 289!! I'm for keeping the coolest part of the car with the car. It's also the one your grandpa was gonna use....that motor has been with that Model A 25 times longer than whatever car it came in. This is a traditional hot rod site still, right? I'm for keeping it a traditional hot rod. Sell that motor and put a common 302 or whatever in it and it instantly becomes a belly ****on ride. Why isn't this Model A looked at as a hot rod built in the 60s like others found on here....where guys chime in, dont change a thing?
It sounds like your Grandpa and you are tight on this project. That's priceless, however a "micro budget" won't get that engine running. Project your budget (then double it) and see which engine options gets you and Grandpa closer to cruising
289 Hi-Po also came with a dual point distributor! 65 also needs the 5 bolt bell housing to match up. 66 Ford changed over to 6 bolt stuff. HiPo's also had screw in valve spring studs. Regardless......IF it is a true Hi-Po there are guys that will pay a nice chunk for it...even in the condition yours is in! Sell it on "flea-bay" and buy a 5.0(302 cu. in) roller motor from the salvage yard. (post 1985 had roller cams). Couple hundred bucks should do it! DON'T GIVE UP!!!!!! This is ALL constructive advice. I love it when a young guy WANTS to tinker with cars. Especially FoMoCo stuff. (read my name!) My advice.... get a pretty decent/lo mileage engine......put a dirt track grind cam in it! Make it sound like a hot rod!! Hell....you're just a teenager...your not rac'in this thing....you're just liv'in-the-dream at an early age. What do you care if its a dog on the track.....you're do'in it on the street! Make it idle snotty and loud! Enjoy it and LEARN about engines and such. Years later(if your still interested) build a really cl***y great performing street rod. For now.........open headers.....snotty idle....and wear a big grin! 6sally6
Just a couple of points.............Ford stamped the VIN on Hipos destined for their own ch***is as noted previously. They did not stamp crate motors purchased by private ch***is builders. Also the 1965 used the 6 bolt bellhousing. This comes from owning a Hipo since new and later an Intermeccanica. As noted, the 1965 was painted black and it was later years when Ford began using the blue
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