I'm getting ready to start building my 27 T bucket in the next couple months, and have been thinking about how I'm going to power it. At first I had my mind set on a 340 Six Pack Dodge, but price and availability turned me away. Next, I thought a Ford 289 or 302 would be the ticket, but the look just wasn't what I was after. Like everyone, a SBC is my fallback, but recently I decided a flathead would be a pretty cool and more traditional. The only problem I'm having now, is that I know almost nothing about flatheads. Here's a list of things I'm wondering based on what I've heard and what I want to hear: -Are all flatheads the same? -What vehicles did they come in and what years? -How do they compare in build cost/purchase price to a SBC or other V8? -I've heard they run very hot, is this true? -How much horsepower is achieveable on a driver? -What kind of ******s can be hooked on? (I prefer Auto with O/D) -Typical redline? -Fuel MPG potential? -What kind of carburation is available? -Typical compression ratio? (Will they run on pump gas?) I think thats about everything. Like I said, I know little to nothing about them, and I figure I might as well ask as much as possible. Thanks!
HAHAHA! Check the Tech-O-Matic. Or get the flathead engine rebuild book by Frank Oddo. Lots of info in it. Josh
You have ALOT of questions! But trust me, anyone involved with flatheads had to start somewhere on the learning curve. I would buy a couple of books about the flathead motors and read them. This will answer alot of basic questions, but not all of them. I've been around flatheads for my entire life and I still have questions (right Bruce Lancaster). I would suggest Tex Smith's The Complete Ford Flathead V8 and Frank Oddo's Ford Flathead V8 Builder's Handbook. I know there are other books, these are two I use the most. Don't be afraid to ask questions here either, we're all learning ourselves.
Nice reply. The flathead V8 was built from 1932-53 in ford vehicles. There are 21 stud and 24 stud Variations. Lots of diffences throughout he years. Stock flatheads were from 80 HP in the late 30s and fourties, and i dont know what the last HP ratings were. I think 150-200 HP is pretty achievable. they are not cheap, by any means. not by a long shot. for a complete performance rebuild, my guess is you could have a couple of Hot smallblocks for the same price. They can run hot, but in an open motor configuration, i dont think its much of an issue.
learn all you can from books about flatheads, them this board will have more meaning to you. build and drive a flathead because you will be glad you did. I just finished my first one this year. took a lot of reading and asking questions but I love it and everywhere I go people like it. this car has been the most fun to me because of the motor. 150 to 170 horse power may turn 5500rpm does not run hot just a fun motor!! no sbc for me
Flatheads are "cool" but aren't for everyone. They take a certain amount of knowledge and care to run properly. Not saying that you don't have these skills but I think you had better do your homework before considering running one.
wow, this will be brutal. Oh, YES, they are very streetable. I know folks who have them with T-5's backing them up and run 80 on the freeway while chugging 30 - 35 mpg with dual carbs.
Thanks for the help/humor/sarcasm so far everyone. Looks like I'll be buying a couple books and reading up on it before I decide what I want to do. Like I said, if I don't go with a flathead, I can always fall back on a small block. I just figure that in a T-bucket, the motor makes up a good 1/3 of the car, and I might as well have something that looks good. In such a light car, horsepower is not a huge issue, but the look and sound sure are. Thanks!
If you have a decent block to begin with a very streetable engine can be built for 2500 - 3000 bucks. Flatheads, at least the non-race (Dragster/Bonneville) engines are not about high horsepower and quarter mile burnouts. They are Flatheads which are beyond cool. If you see and hear one running and don't understand, than step away, and buy a SBC.
Believe me, the sarcastic words coming from thier lips in thier head, are in seriousness, but in a humoristic flair. Flatty's are the best motor and like 4tl8ford said, they are cool. The ultimate in traditionality (is that a word?) Why go easy to a SBC...they ****...everyone has a 350.... If you do go SBC...go 265, 283, 302 or even 327....keep it early, keep it real.
i have a stock 8ba flathead that i drive when its 115 outside. so far i have not had any problems with overheating. i wouldnt run any other motor. IMHO
Im surprised no ones mentioned how downright tough a flathead is. My dad drove on 2 dead cylinders and cracked head from tijuana to his home in oakland, burned about 20 quarts of oil and had to keep it running while getting gas, but it made it! im fairly sure people on here have some more impressive flatty stories.
Nice! Now I have a whole bunch of links to read. I've bookmarked them all, and read through a few things so far. A flathead may be in my future, and one BIG deciding factor is the sound clips on the one link. They just sound unreal accelerating/decelerating.
Start with the Oddo book, it covers alot, including buying an engine and what to look for/what to avoid. Even if you decide not to run one, the knowledge is good to have. They are the height of cool to alot of people . Flatman
Newb ies ripping newbies... ***s. Flatheads are cool... Take that for what it's worth. They will never be as "streetable" as a SBC but they might be as reliable as the Dodge. I doubt you could build one with any kind of power for less than the Dodge though. Parts aren't that hard to come by but chances are, if you break something, there will be a period of shipping time factored in to how long you are off the road. Autozone is not going to help you. The Dodge would have WAY more power for the same price. The Flathead would have WAY more COOL for the same price. Books will help you if you actually decide to build a Flathead... Don't listen to the posers and don't drop a bunch of money on books if you think you will build the Dodge instead. That just doesn't make any sense. Go to your next show really early, when the cars start coming in. Sit and watch them file in and try to spot a flatty. Listen to it as it rolls by. The sound will move you... If it doesn't... Build the Dodge.... Or a *****in' Pro-Street Camaro!
Ive been playing with flattys since the mid 50's and with plenty of hot OHV's in between. I always seem to come back to a flatty and have about 65K on a 286 in my 53 Vicky. It and a 68 Impala SS396 ragtop are my summer daily drivers. I prefer the 8BA block which came out in 48 in trucks, 49 in cars. Ended in 53 in the US and 54 in Canada. Easier to work on and better parts choices. Bearings for earlier versions are going the same way as gas prices since they are out of production. Flattys DO NOT inherently run hot, I run mine in July/August parades and beach traffic jams and never had a boil over AND it has the stock radiator. Main heat problem is heads and blocks full of rust way down in the p***ages that most so called cleanings dont fix. Read up on the mol***es rust cleaning cure in the archives here. They are also fussy about timing which affects heat a lot more than a typical OHV. If you are not out for performance, a sweet running stocker can often be had for around $500 from some "street rodder" putting a SBC in a pristine original. Add some external eye candy and maybe a cam/lifters for the unique sound. Rebuilding a flatty is easier than a SBC. SERIOUSLY! It has its unique requirements and some quirks but everything you need for info is now available on the Internet. As more and more younger rodders get disenchanted with belly ****on SBC's and ricers/Eurocans the flatty is now becoming an almost common site at shows and cruises.
Hey, why are some of you bust'in on this guy for asking questions? My answer is a Flathead Ford is the most simple and easiest engine to build. The shortblock is no less reliable than any modern V8 for the street. The biggest drawback by comparison are the rope main seals. Yes they can "mark their spot" pretty well. The biggest things IMO for modern reliability are water pumps, carburation, charging and ignition. People get screwed up by running too hot a cam, blowing head gaskets mainly from aluminum heads improperly installed and too many carbs. Stay simple at first, run one carb, an alternator and get some Skip Haney waterpumps. A stock Flathead Ford will pull a T-bucket with authority due to it's generous low end torque. Hell my fat `41 Ford with the original 85hp Flatty has no problems keeping up with traffic. The only mods to the engine are headers and duals and a 12V generator and ignition system. It's very reliable quiet and runs cool in Florida. If I was starting from scratch I'd contact Red Hamilton at Red's Headers. He has a supply of the French military engines that are basically Ford Flatheads built under license of Ford Motor Co. Red has engine kits available for less than $3000 in fact I think thier about $2500. You'll be getting enough to do the whole short block. You'll have brand new waterjackets, new bores, pistons, decks etc. This will save you the money of trying to restore an older original. Plus you'll get extras like a beefier bottom end, choice of 3.75" or 4" crank, higher grade iron and much improved exhaust ports. The best part is all the dressup goodies fit right on. Good luck. link http://www.reds-headers.com/
I drive the dog **** out of my roadster. I run a stroked '48 Merc with dual carbs. I also run a Halibrand rear. I can't break it......
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