Questions about straight axle shortening - 65 Fairlane

First post after my introduction thingy!

I have a 65 Fairlane, stock condition that I am starting on. I recently aquired a 60s Econoline front axle & hubs that I was planning to drop under the nose.

The axle needs to be narrowed and my question is this: Is there a solid way to do this without compromising safety? Although I like the idea of seeing no road because of the hood, I do not need the front end to drop back down and have the axle snap at the new weld. That is my own, personal worry, as I haven't really heard of that happening. I plan to run 90/10s for race day, so that 90% and the twin leafs should absorb a great deal of the blow, right?
Swiss cheese holes should stay out of the picture, I would imagine - at least near the center at the weld.

A magazine article said it really wasn't a worry, as **** Landy ran a cut and welded axle under his car with no problems. The same article went on to say if you made V cuts and welded very hot, there would be no worries.

Has anybody here messed with this?

Thanks dooooOOOoods,
Geo~

 

I narrowed an Econoline axle years ago and put it under a Willys.I did V notch before welding.Since this is an I beam axle,I also made some pieces{I think it was out of 1/4" plate}and welded them in the recessed part of the I beam ,so it ended up flush with the top and bottom of the beam.I think I made them at least 10" long,again ,it's been a while,but never had any trouble with it.I used a Mustang {Early Mustang}steering box mounted ahead of the axle,with the shackles at the rear of the springs.




.

 

Thanks, Terry. Good idea on the gussets! I worry about this no more.

As far as the shackles at the rear, that makes sense, too - seems like the spring mounts would have less chance of any jiglling and jostling around if that double pivot point is at the rear, "dragging" end of the action. Like rear springs are mounted. Less chance of the mounting holes getting keyholed.

I just got in from the garage and I pulled the bumper off and inspected the area. I'm kinda bummed at the level of rust. It's not bad, really, but it is there. Looks like the previous owner welded in a 1/4" steel plate where the front of the torsion bar mounts to the frame. I am not running those bars, but the area is a bit rotted out where the front spring mounts are going to mount. I may have to cobble in some fresh frame rails from about where the motor mounts start to the front. I plan to do a flip front end, so the frame rails will be blocked in with chrome/moly tubing (extension of the 6/8 roll cage) for additional strength anyway. Seems like it will be alright...?

I just received some plans I got off eBay for a flip front.
At the very very end of all the terrific illustrations, directions and information, it says "A flip front end is not recommended for uni-body cars!". I plan to subframe the hell out of this, so I think I will be alright...?

Next step is to fly the front up onto jackstands, fenders off, and cut everything away but the frame rails.
I will hang targets on the ceiling so I have something to hit with the coil springs.

Now I need to find a pair of leaf springs that are about 41". Should I be looking for thin, light duty ones or heavier ones?
Running a small block and tires will be leaving the ground.

Thanks!
Off to band practice,
Geo~

 

I narrowed a parallel leaf front axle years ago to put under a '55 Chevy 2dr that my friend had. I cut it in the middle, heavily V'd the joint, clamped the two pieces together using a heavy 2X4 tube clamped to the spring mounting pads to keep it straight. After tacking it and checking alignment it was welded with a stick welder using mild steel rod in progressive build p***es until it was built up flush with the origional surface. I then cut two pieces of 3/8" flat stock to fit in the recess in the front and back of the joint about 8" long. These were welded into the recesses centered over the joints and the welds dressed.
That car ran on the strip and on the street for years without a failure finally being returned to a stock suspension by swapping in a reconditioned stock frame when the car was restored.

Frank

 

I'm very interested in your project. please keep us informed as you go....KIDD

 

Hey George if you want to run disc brakes on the Econoline spindles let me know,I have an old magazine article somewhere, I can dig it out.I used the stock drum brakes on my Willys,they worked good!

 

Thanks Terry. It might be worth digging out. Whether I do disks on this ride is unsure for now. If you find it, maybe a scan and post on this forum would be appropriate?

I've been driving mostly 60s Fords since I was a kid (out of the 67 vehicles I've owned over the years... a couple actually were driven) and I am pretty used to the dumb drums.

No work on the car today, but I have the next 2 days off - a rarity nowadays - and I have the camera batteries charged up. I can get some pictures so y'all can check out the project from the ground level!

Cheers all,
Geo~

 

Pics !!!!!

 

Pics, man, pics! WE WANT PICS!!!!!!!!

 

I narrowed mine about 3 inches. I had to pick a place it would come back together uniformly because the econoline axle is pretty rough and the web thickness varys.

 

P.S. Awhile back I popsted a thread on a 65 fairlane G***er.Car isin the Phoenix area.I was loking for pics but nobody could find any. You might want to try and post again here on the hamb

 

Wheres the pics of the 65 ?

 

I'm building a 62 Fairlane g***er style. Same generation as the 65. I saw the A/FX falcon Wild Child at the World of Wheels car show in Boston and was truely inspired. http://www.mswansonart.com/wild.htm I talked the owner for quite a while. He was very helpful. It has a 40 ford truck axle, spring and split bones in it. No cutting required. I got one from a buddy with a yard full of old ford trucks. fits perfect. I'm picking up a 77 Lincoln this weekend with a 460 in it. I know its not traditional but without the spring towers in it there is lots of room. HotRod mag did an article on altering the rear axle of a 64 f/lane. http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/113_0503_alt/index1.html Rich from PerformanceKing did the work. He put an econoline axle in that one. For more inspirational and historic pictures...http://www.performanceking.com/
It took quite a while for me to get the balls to cut the spring towers out. I've had this car for over 20 years. It's not in great shape and my wife won't let me hotrod my 63 T-Bird. Also...be careful removing the front springs. I normal spring compressor won't do it. I built a tool that goes up the middle of the spring. I got the plans from the Fairlane Club of America's magazine. Two steel plates and a 3/4 in threaded rod and connector nuts.

Good Luck...Rick

 

Sorry.... don't forget about Crites Restoration http://www.critesrestoration.com/litening.htm
They have replacement frame parts

Rick

 

Gonna try to post a picture here... It might be too big, but here goes.

 

Big Blocks into 62 fairlanes is G***ER/A/FX traditional !!! Thats what the Thunderbolts were

 

This ain't working for me.
Now I gotta get to work.
I'll try again tonight...
Sorry about the false alarm.
Tips?
Geo~

 

Okay. I try this again. Here is the Fairlane. As you can see, it is in its embryonic stage. I wanted to get the starting point pics up before I rip the front end out off the car. Also, that is our garage - 65 Mustang fastback and coupe, dune buggy, 66 & 65 Fairlanes and a bunch of motorcycle stuff that needs a new home. It's just in the way. Also a shot of the dash and the cool vintage buckets I got. That gauge panel is electrical taped in place for fitment. Bad *** slicks, too!
Let's see if these pictures work...

 

And the rest.

 

So I need some help. I figured out how to get the pictures in, but they have to be so tiny, you can't see anything! I will continue to search for an answer, but somebody could stick their head in here and let me know how to insert a picture you can click on for a larger version.
I ain't dumn. I sware.

As far as the FE goes, I will probably stick to the 289 Hipo I have. 69 351 L-port heads, etc. I prefer the big blocks, but I'm going with what I'm going with for now.

Geo~

 

hey george, would an early ford truck axle maybe be the right size? i have a couple different ones. what is the length you are shootin for?
keaton

 

NOW THATS A GARAGE!!! Must be nice actually having room.many here do not. 289 hi po is a great engine and you do not have to worry about weight or size issues. Your project is one I have been thinking about. You can get Fibergl*** hood and front bumper and other stuff from Crites restorations. I LUV it man...GOOD LUCK

 

BROKE N PISSED ON:
Hey Keaton - I took some solid measurements yesterday and it looks like I need an axle that runs 50 inches wide (measured from inside hub to inside hub) and has spring perches 31" center to center.
Also looking for 36" leaf springs. That'll move my front wheels forward about 4".
Wutcha got?
Thanks - see you on the poker table?
Geo~

 

i'll check and let you k now.
keaton

 

and yes for poker.
keaton

 

I thank you in advance, Dude.
Stomach kinda sickie today, so no garage time to speak of...

Talked to X earlier and he said no Poker tomorrow, but we play on Thursday night - you still in?

Okay, back to business now - no more personal stuff.
Promise.

Geo~

 

Whatsup With The 65????

 

Any Progress Georgie????

 

Any updates on your car George? I have a 64 Fairlane that I have installed a Econoline axle. Which has been shortened.