Recently purchased a 58 apache. It has the original 235 with stomp/foot starter. The starter is only engaging sometimes. It will free spin often but only every now and then will it turn the motor. I know they have the switch on them. Is it possible this switch going bad? Is it the starter going bad? I'd like to keep the foot start and have been looking for replacement starters. I have found the switch but not the starters. Is anybody willing to tech me how these starters work? Thanks in advance guys.
Would it be the bendex on the starter. I'd pull starter and have it tested. Ring gear means pulling transmission and flywheel.
The starter drive (often mistakenly called the Bendix) is slipping...get a rebuilt starter, or a replacement starter drive (and replace brushes and check bushings while you're in there) If the switch were bad, the starter motor would not turn.
If you pull the starter to have it tested you can inspect the ring gear by looking in the starter hole take a yellow or white paint and mark a tooth the have some one bar the motor around But it sound like the starter
One more vote for starter drive/Bendix but I would look at the ring gear. Also make sure that the linkage on the starter isn't binding up. The foot stomp six cylinder starter doesn't have a solenoid and relies on your foot pushing the pedal to move the starter drive. Photo borrowed from Jim Carter's site.
do you know where to buy a new starter. I can find the drives all day long. I just can't seem to find a replacement starter.
If it's the ring gear and drive not engaging all the way, you'll hear awful grinding. If the drive is slipping, it will just spin free (some times it might catch for a moment, then spin free) You can take the starter apart and replace the drive, it's slightly tricky...but not rocket surgery. I seem to recall doing that for the first time in the mid 70s as a 14 year old. The snap ring can be challenging, the trick is to pop the retainer off with a socket (1/2"?) then carefully pry the ring out of the groove.
The snap ring is the hard part of the whole deal. Good idea to change the bushings and brushes at the same time. Bushings and brushes come to under 10 bucks most of the time. Make sure you get the starter drive for the foot stomp starter and not the one for the one for the automatic trans application.
Hi. I have two of these foot switch starters complete I will sell. First one came out of my 46 coupe and was rebuilt with a new armature this past April. Second I purchased new around the same time and still in the box, both for the 235 in my 46 Coupe. I do not remember if my 235 uses the 46 flywheel or the one that came with the 235 but I think they are the same. The new in box starter was ordered for me by O'Reilly's. Paid $160 for rebuild job with new armature from a rebuilder while on a tour and $220 + tax for the new one and got a deep discount thru VCCA on that new one via O'Reilly. If anyone is interested either will ship in a priority box for something just under $15 each. I just changed from the 3 on tree to a T350 ****** with new flywheel to match and had to buy a new starter for that set up. Also have a good clutch. Jimmie
just make sure if you are buying a starter, to get the 12v version. They are quite different from the 6v version, and won't mesh with the flywheel correctly (the flywheel has to match the starter, and vise versa)
Searching three sites says that that starter isn't a common over the counter item. If you want a rebuilt one I'd suggest taking your starter to a local starter, alternator, generator rebuild shop. Most cities of any size have one. If you don't have one locally the one local to me does a fair amount of work on stuff shipped in via UPS for rebuild and ships it out again. They don't blink when you have something old. Cost is usually the same as what Napa or other parts houses ask for a rebuilt. http://smithae.com/
I had the starter for my 235 rebuilt about a month ago for $100.00. The guy said he rewound everything in it and put a new solenoid on it, new brushes etc. He cleaned it up, and even painted it. He gives a 1 year warranty on anything he rebuilds. As mentioned by Mr48chev, most cities have a shop that offers this service.
I always use someone local for my starters, etc. One guy used to do all my stock car starters, always started no matter how hot the engine was. I'm on my 3rd builder since 1974. You always want to get YOUR core rebuilt instead of one that may be off a bit.
Lots of good replies here. I'm new to this forum, Gary, retired tech. after 43 years. One thing I'd like to add is if you rebuild it yourself and also to troubleshoot it is it's easy to bench test it using jumper cables and battery. Clamp it down firmly or best in a big vice. Once apart, everything cleaned I'd wire wheel armature. Lube bearings. Other suggestions here as I said are very good. Sent from my SM-S320VL using Tapatalk
All the comments have good info . There is definitely a difference in flywheel teeth. 6 volt has different number of teeth than 12 volt. If your teeth are damaged to much don't fret. You can heat up the ring gear with rose bud tip and it will expand enough to slip off. Simply turn over and slip back on to the flywheel. Good luck. Sent from my XT1254 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
6 volt had 139 tooth ring gears, I think the 12 volts were the more common now 168. When I had RB starters convert the mini's to the early 2 bolt flange they could use the stock Nissan gear as it meshed with the 139. I had him make 2 adapters and used them for years to start my GMC's using 1958-61 6 cylinder bellhousings and 139 tooth custom built flywheels. As I remember at that time there were 3 common starter gear tooth number and pitch. Before the adapters I used 6 volt starters on 14 volts.
The Jalopy Journal
