Just trying to figure out what other parts I need to collect for a drum/drum set up on a 57 chevy. I found a dual master w/o booster that should bolt right up. What else do I neet to round up for the conversion? Proportioning valve? New tee's and line? Anyone with a brake line schematic I could look at? Thanks!
www.mpbrakes.com has great brake system schematics it looks like you have to login now - that is weird
No prop. valve needed on drum/drum. If master cyl. doesn't have built in residual valves, then you need two 10lb. valves.
The master is from a 68 Chevelle. I will have to check on the valves. I was told by someone elso who used one on their 55 that it bolts right up and works great for them. I am going to a junk yard next weekend to try and find some good brake lines and fittings off of a full size chevy truck or something of that nature. Unless someone has a better alternative vehicle they could recommend.
Take the cylinder into your local NAPA... Chances are you'll have to spend a few minutes rustling through the weatherhead bin. On my Buick I needed reducers, a couple tee's a few block-offs for the junction block and a straight line-to-line fitting. -B
Please do a search on Brakes - C9 has done some outstanding tech posts telling you everything you'll need to consider. First thing you need to do is identify the master cylinder bore and confirm it was for a drum drum set up. 68 chevell may have had disc drum by then - I am not sure. I would also consider not using brake lines out of a junk yard. The fluid may be compromised (absorbed water) and the inside of the lines may be rusted. You can either make them or I am sure someone may have a kit for a 57 chevy 4 door. If you get plain steel lines they should not be that expensive. Do it once - do it right and you won't have to fool with it all the time.
Get plenty of "extra" line and connectors. Rent the double flare tool and take back what you don't use
i guess i'll hijack away while Bttt....how about if your running a booster, do you need and prop, or residual valves? can someone explain what the prop, and res, valves purpose is? also, what size brake line and fittings should be run on a boosted 2 res setup. with drum/drum
The proportioning valve regulates the amount of braking power to the back brakes in relation to the fronts. You don't want the rears to lock up while the fronts are only lightly braking. An adjustable prop valve allows you to fine tune this. The residual pressure valves are used to keep brake fluid from draining out of the wheel cylinders when your master is mounted lower than they (wheel cylinders or calipers) are. Use a 10 lb. on drums and a 2 lb on disks. 3/16" lines should be fine.
since the m/c is ABOVE the drums, you don't really NEED res.pressure, and the wheel cylinders are all the same, so you don't NEED a prop. valve. They can/will make the brakes perform better, but it is still drum/drum.
No! A 2lbs valve is needed for disc brake application where the main cylinder reservoir is lower the the bracke caliper. Otherwise you don't need it. A 10lbs valve is always needed where you have cup seals due to their design. Cup seals is used in the wheel cylinders of drum brakes.
I have a 67 MC on a 63 booster mounted on teh firewall of my 59. No extra valves. It works great. Are you INSANE?!? Why would you go through the trouble of pulling old, and possibly damaged, brakes lines when you could get them new, bend them yourself, save time, and be safe?!?!?
how do you check if your master has residula valves in them? its one of those street rodder, gold chainer standard master/booster/pedal/bracket bolt on setups.
You should have read on. Going with new line and renting a flair tool. Junk yard would have been for fittings not line.
The Jalopy Journal
