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Hot Rods Another ball joint removal thread...

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 480 Ford, Mar 26, 2018.

  1. 480 Ford
    Joined: Mar 18, 2018
    Posts: 24

    480 Ford
    Member
    from Arizona

    figured I’d reach out and tap the knowledge here...

    I’m replacing the balljoints and having a hell of a time removing the old ones. I used my die grinder to remove part of the original rivet...these things still are not budging.

    Do these need to be pressed in/out? Help
     

    Attached Files:

  2. 325w
    Joined: Feb 18, 2008
    Posts: 6,513

    325w
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'd drill the rivet now. Then show us the bottom side of the A arm. Also tell us what car your working on.
     
  3. pitman
    Joined: May 14, 2006
    Posts: 5,148

    pitman

    Chisels, wedge in from each opposed or three directions, break the bond.
     
  4. Hyvolt
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 279

    Hyvolt
    Member

    Do you have an air hammer/chisel? I put the chisel bit on and drive between the two surfaces. Just did some on a 68 merc.

    Sent from my LG-LS993 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  5. Fordors
    Joined: Sep 22, 2016
    Posts: 6,548

    Fordors
    Member

    I have had great success with the following method of rivet removal on just about anything. It's the remainder of the rivet that is holding the ball joint so once you grind the rivet head off center punch the shank so you can drill a hole part way, but not all the way through the shank. For example, on a 1/4" rivet you drill with a 1/8" or 3/16" bit and then use a drift punch that fits that hole to drive the rivet out, it is the hole in the center that relaxes the grip on the ball joint and the control arm.
     
    Hnstray, zzford and Atwater Mike like this.
  6. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 11,381

    BJR
    Member

    Or drive it out with a round flat punch, don't use a pointed punch as it spreads the rivet in the hole when you hit it.
     
  7. Chiss
    Joined: May 12, 2017
    Posts: 236

    Chiss
    Member
    from S.C.

    I've center punched and Drilled out 100's of them, easy and pretty Quick. But then again been Sharpening my own Drill Bits for years also. Sharp Bit's will make lite work of this. Grinding ******s up to much ****.
     
  8. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,618

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    One more thing, kind of obvious: Make sure you have a solid 'platform', i.e. a heavy duty car stand, or even a 4X4 block cut to length, to stand on end under the ball joint arer of the control arm. When you pound down on the rivets, you will have solidity.
    Solidity! What a concept...:eek::D
     
    Hnstray likes this.
  9. 480 Ford
    Joined: Mar 18, 2018
    Posts: 24

    480 Ford
    Member
    from Arizona

    Got it

    I changed drill bits and drilled right through them!

    What a difference the correct drill bit can make...sheesh!

    Thanks for the input. Doing a front end rebuild on my 59 Ranchero.
    Figured while I’m doing the springs, shocks and disc brake conversion...may as well rebuild the front end.
     

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