Technical Opinions/critique of my poly bushing setup

Hey guys. First time fabricating front suspension parts and wanted additional eyes to see if there's any obvious flaws.

This is a pic of the upper a arm off of my '55 Merc. Rubber control arm bushings were long gone and replacements leave a bit to be desired so here's where I'm at thus far.

Shells are 6061 aluminum press fit into the arms.

Poly bushings are 100A durometer that I turned on my lathe.

Inner sleeve is DOM tubing.

I have hardened steel shims coming from McMaster Carr for the poly bushing to rotate against the shell. Picture a VW linkpin shim setup for a visual. Once that arrives I'll finish bolting it together and either use nylock nuts or drill and pin the end bolts. I might add a zerk fitting to each one as well.

The one thing I'm forseeing being an issue is caster. Since I had nothing to reference, I just copied the shell placement of the ones I pulled out. One of the shells is a tight interference fit so I have the option of pressing it in deeper or shallower for caster. The other is equally tight but has a step machined in it so I can move it our or machine a but more off to move it back and forth.

Opinions of all types are welcome. Especially any safety or usability issues I may have overlooked.

Thanks all, NAES

Sent from my SM-N910V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Both bushings need to be pressed all the way in. Caster is adjusted with the control arm mounting bolts.

 

Camber is adjusted with the CA mounting bolts isn't it? I don't see how the kingpin angle could change as the cross shaft hole isn't elongated, nor is the frame mount holes.

I replicated the bushing shell mounts from the old ones. Look at the step in the old shell, It puts the outer lip ~5/8" away from the arm. The other shell has no step and is pressed in a little further than I have it which I'll handle after the shims arrive.

I appreciate the feedback though.

Sent from my SM-N910V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Caster and camber adjust with the same bolts.

 

I'd be worried about the shell with no step moving due to braking forces. Caster is adjusted by putting more shims on the front or rear control arm bolt, camber is adjusted by adding or removing shims from both bolts.

Chris

 

Gotcha. Thank you for that info guys!

I thought the same thing about the no step shell. But there is a step on one side, just not the other so I think the slip issue is handled.

Sent from my SM-N910V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app