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Hot Rods wire wheels

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by fm taylor, Apr 18, 2018.

  1. fm taylor
    Joined: Apr 24, 2013
    Posts: 3

    fm taylor
    Member

    how do I get 32 and 34 ford wire wheels mounted to a 8 inch ford rear end
     
  2. Vanness
    Joined: Aug 5, 2017
    Posts: 411

    Vanness
    Member

    Wheel adapters or different / drilled axles.
     
  3. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 4,351

    rusty valley
    Member

    yup, drill the axles to 5 on 5 1/2, then buy the little support rings from speedway that support the center of the wheel
     
  4. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 20,476

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    You’ll still need the spacer with the flat face of the 8 inch drums though
     
  5. fm taylor
    Joined: Apr 24, 2013
    Posts: 3

    fm taylor
    Member

    are the axles big enough to drill out to 5 on 5 and a half.. how about the front . was thinking of using 56 ford pickup brakes, are they good enough? thanks
     
  6. clem
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 4,703

    clem
    Member

    Put new centres (with correct pcd) in your wheel rims.
    Or adapters.
     
  7. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,779

    alchemy
    Member

    If you hold the wheel up to the drum you will see that the back side of the wheel is dished too much to mount up tight. You might as well change the bolt pattern with the same adapter that spaces it out. Do some measuring to find the exact depth needed.
     
  8. 325w
    Joined: Feb 18, 2008
    Posts: 6,513

    325w
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Pick up brakes have the correct bolt pattern. You'll still need the spacer in back of the wheel.
     
  9. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 36,050

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    It's the same thing that Pete just told you about the front brakes in another thread. you have to have a spacer to get the back of the wire to clear the flat drums. Lay a straight edge across the back side of one of the wire wheels and measure down to where the surface that would bolt to the drum is. that plus a slight clearance is the thickness you need. I think someone does make a special spacer to use that has the raised lip to catch the inside edge of the wire wheel so you don't tweak the wheel.
    Here is a thread from a couple of years ago that has most of the answers you want or need. Good photos too. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/f-100-drums-and-35-wire-wheels.960061/

    At the time that thread was done I wanted 35 wires but lately have decided on steelies because of the need for the spacers or having to dig up earlier drums and backing plates.
     
  10. rusty valley
    Joined: Oct 25, 2014
    Posts: 4,351

    rusty valley
    Member

    lots opinions here, i am not familiar with the face of your drum, but the wire ford wheels support off the outside, note bump on wheel, and the inside either by a peg on 32-35 wheels, or a ring on the model a's. so, the bolt pattern is a no brainer, but what does the face of your drum look like?
     
  11. Boneyard51
    Joined: Dec 10, 2017
    Posts: 6,782

    Boneyard51
    Member

    Put a nine inch in it, Bones
     
  12. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,779

    alchemy
    Member

    Same wheel mounting problems though.
     
    X38 likes this.
  13. aerocolor
    Joined: Oct 7, 2009
    Posts: 1,204

    aerocolor
    Member
    from dayton

    I just installed early wires on a 9" using 4 1/2" to 5 1/2"adapters and Speedway support plates on my 5W. 20180418_131839.jpg
    No issues.
     
    warhorseracing likes this.
  14. Boneyard51
    Joined: Dec 10, 2017
    Posts: 6,782

    Boneyard51
    Member

    5 1/2 x 5 nine inch are readily available. Personally I don’t like adapters. Just me. I like to use Oem junk yard junk when possible . Most stuff you buy today is China **** and I don’t trust it. . Bones
     
  15. X38
    Joined: Feb 27, 2005
    Posts: 17,498

    X38
    Member

    This is not the problem.
    35 wires are made so that the outside of the wheel centre is supported by the outside of the 35 brake drum. The centre tapers like a cone and does not fit on late type drums. This is why really wide spacers are needed to move the wheel centre out clear of the drum.

    By this point, the wheel will not be supported factory style. Plus support rings are also needed because the stud holes have raised nubs half way around them while the original 35 drums have raised nubs on the opposite side, thus providing 360 degree support around the hole. Without support rings to make up the difference the lug nuts are wrenching down on a half supported hole, distorting and stressing the centre.
     
  16. Boneyard51
    Joined: Dec 10, 2017
    Posts: 6,782

    Boneyard51
    Member

    Ok, gotcha. Thought there may be more to it. Should have got the wheels down from the shelf in the shop and looked at them. That’s what happens when I go from memory . My bad, Bones
     
  17. aerocolor
    Joined: Oct 7, 2009
    Posts: 1,204

    aerocolor
    Member
    from dayton

    Yeah, a buddy bolted his on without the plates and drove to Goodguys in Columbus. Vibration big-time.
    Like running with loose lugnuts.
    Plates fixed it.
     
  18. Boneyard51
    Joined: Dec 10, 2017
    Posts: 6,782

    Boneyard51
    Member

    Is that for 35 only or all wire wheels? I was going by the wheels on the self in the pic. Bones
     

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  19. Andy
    Joined: Nov 17, 2002
    Posts: 5,391

    Andy
    Member

    I have run 1" adapters on my roadster forever. It has a Maverick rear end. I had the steelies off and just for kicks I tried a Kelsey wire. The lip that causes most of the problems was not a problem and it slipped right on. It would still need the spacer rings.
     

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