1950 Ford Flathead Transmission T87D Just finally ***embled my transmission and got it dropped into the frame. made some linkage and low and behold first press of the pedal and no movement. It slides back and forth on the spline no problem but when it hits the fingers its a dead stop. Not sure what i did wrong but cleaned all with a new disc. Gears shift fine and goes into neutral but just cant get further movement of the clutch Just trying to find what to look for before i pull it and open it up. Suggestions?
Try posting some pics of your linkage and pedal hookup. Did you take any pics of the front face of the transmission before you bolted it up to the engine?
here are the pictures from dis***embly 11" clutch from Van Pelt #*81T-7550 Pilot bearing from Van pelt # 2065-16 side of clutch with the extensions faced transmission Is the pilot bearing in far enough? Is the clutch fork facing the right way? Correct Bolts for flywheel? clutch thickness is 5/16 clutch spline thickness is 1 1/8 correct pressure plate? it measures 2 7/8 from floor to face or surface Correct clutch and or thickness? , pilot bearing? , throw out bearing? Suggestions please......
Your clutch pedal is not designed just like stock. I’ve attached a picture link for the stock type 40-48 clutch pedal ***embly. For one thing, your attachment point for the clevis and rod is way up the pedal arm. If nothing else, you’ll lose quite a bit of leverage by mounting it there. Placing the mount closer to the bottom of the clutch arm will increase the leverage (and reduce the travel somewhat). http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/FH_images/FH_trans-pics/Flathead_Clutch***y_1940-48_85hp.jpg When the pedal is all the way up, you should be able to mount and then adjust the clevis so that the clutch release bearing is just off the three fingers of the pressure plate. Also, I cannot see which flywheel you’re using.....the correct flywheel for a 1950 V8 can be identified by the six pressure plate bolt holes drilled all the way through the steel flywheel (not blind holes). Also, when everything is ***embled and adjusted, you should be able to look through the inspection window and see that the throw out bearing does not ride too far forward (sliding off the snout of the front bearing retainer) when you fully depress the clutch pedal. If the three fingers of the pressure plate are still too far away from the bearing, there might be an issue with the pressure plate you have).
Do the holes go through completely. I just ran into a similar problem you are having. Also, how far out are the fingers adjusted out? Is the clutch hitting the bellhousing area when trying to engage?
6 flywheel holes go through completely i dont think clutch is hitting bell how do you adjust the fingers? Is it by the little screw bolts at the end?
here is a side view of the flywheel to check for proper installation. there is a spacer behind the bolt heads ...Is it in the correct location?
put it all back together and put a pair of vice grips on the cross shaft and a two foot pry bar and it moves just fine I can feel the leverage required. This will be a challenge for the linkage as i cant mount it to the pedal base due to and offset pedal shaft and a very pinched AV8 frame. I will see what i can HACK up. Thanks for all the help Gents!!!
Ok attached is another picture of the linkage revisited You can see the bend in the pedal shaft and how close the frame pinch makes it difficult to line up. i have a mock up here for suggestions and would like advice of best way to get this done. upper heim is 2 5/8 away from pedal base eye to eye on heim rod is 7 1/2 inches with the pedal pad straight up the pivot on the equalizer bar is 3 inches up from the equalizer shaft 1. I plan to drill the pedal hole lower where the heim is now. Cant go any lower to the base due to the bend in the pedal shaft will hit the heim rod during movement 2. I will have to cut a bit of the frame pedal mount away to get that to even clear. Is there enough mechanical advantage to make this work? I have about 1/2 inch of throw before the throwout hits the fingers. That is just free play in the cross bar. Suggestion on how to are welcome.
Looks ok to me. It will help when trans is bolted in too. I can move my motor by pushing the clutch in. That movement is key to take out all the slack. I took free play out of my pedal to put it just off the fingers. Helps with linkage setup.
You have screwdrivers in trans mount holes. Mount em to get trans secured...you will have movement that will effect pedal and linkage. Before you set final linkage (looks fine btw), put bolts in and tighten motor down. Then adjust free play and Clevis.
The Jalopy Journal
