Hot Rods Just Another 5-Window Build Thread

Thanks, AHotRod!

 

Today I started on a rotisserie idea I have. In the back of the garage is a mezzanine that I can use for a vertical support for the back end of the frame ....

I will anchor the 2x6 to the underside of the mezzanine and wedge it to the floor. I am using two heads from engine stands - one will be mounted in the wood, the other to it's own engine stand. I cut two plates and from some scrap and drilled and bolted them to the engine stand heads giving me a welding surface. I will weld some 1x2 tubing to it for the crosspieces ...



The first head will be used in the wood - the multiple holes will hold the frame steady there, the second in it's own stand. Presently the idea is to level the engine stand so everything rotates nicely.
With this done I removed the FE from under the car ...

... and began to move the rear forward. I installed shorter tires and got it about 1/2 way out when I realized it would be easier to remove the tires and use a dolly instead as it was too tall as it was with my limited resources ....


Once I have the suspension out from under the frame I can use my engine hoist to pick up the frame for ease of mounting it in the rotisserie. Damned if I know if this is going to work - I think as long as the two ends are level, it should rotate freely. It's an idea I just had to try .... what the hell, right?!

 

Day 2 on the frame rotisserie - got my 2x6 into position ....

It's just wedged in there for the time being. I also got the rear out from under the frame - nothing fell and nothing broke too!

I then spread the front two frame horns to git my front spreader bar using a pump Jack - worked out pretty good. I wanted the front and rear frame horns to be in their right location and width in case I build another 32 or someone would like to borrow my setup.


The front brackets were just scrap pieces I had lying around. I cut the rears, measured and drilled the holes, and got them in place

After a bit of cleanup I should be able to finish it tomorrow. Then we will see if it all works as planned ....

 

Welded everything up today after making sure all was level. For want of a hole saw the size I need for the wood end, it would have been done ....

That is just about the height it will be - about 35" off the floor. I will prop up the back end of the engine stand so the head is level and it will rotate smoothly. I should be working on the frame tomorrow .....

 

Any chance this will happen ? I too would love to see

 

I am working on it but I have some family functions that may thwart my efforts ...

 

It works! Got things mounted up on the back side. Needed something of a collar to keep the bolt heads away from the wood ....

Drilled my hole ...

... and added a piece of 5 quarter decking to give it more depth. Had to sand out the hole a little bit so things weren't too tight, coated the inside of the hole and the shaft with white lithium grease and slipped it in ....

I also drilled my horizontal hole and used a long bolt to grab the head holes and keep it somewhat steady ...


After a quick pickup I tried it out ....


Rotates nice with no effort but I will need a bigger pin than the bolt I am using. It's not as tight once in position because the bolt is too small and there's some play. After a cleanup I got to work and removed my pb handle, drilled the holes needed for my tranny mount, got to welding up and finish welding the bottom side, and ground those off. It's working great and I am happily back at work on the project .....

 

Don't you just love it when a plan works out! Go Man Go!!

 

You bet! I am stoked!

 

I have been grinding, sanding, welding but nothing really to "look" at as of yet. I am getting down to the end of welding stuff. Not too much more now. Maybe, just maybe, I may be able to get some paint on the interior nooks and crannies (ie, make that the invisible areas) of the frame by sometime next week, weather depending of course. We will see .... but I am getting there ....

 

Nice job on the frame rotisserie! I may have to duplicate that when the time comes.

 

You wood butcher lol, Tom I love your engineering. People pay thousands of Dollars for a rotisserie. You got maybe 20 bucks in one that works just as well ....Thrifty....

 

Thanks, guys - yep, you nailed it John! $20 is all I have in it!

 

Looks awesome!


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Thank you!

 

Got back on the project after a vacation (can you say vacation if you are retired? Seems like every day should be a vacation day! Lol!) and a week preparing for spring Carlisle, being miserably cold at Carlisle for 3 days, sold some junk, and came home for the Bonneville truck fire up. I have been grinding and welding (and grinding) all along in small spurts but I needed a few things at Carlisle to keep moving forward.

At this point I have finished welding, been going over the frame taking off the rough edges, and have now started to fill the frames indentations due to the heating and welding of it getting it straight. I needed hardener for the Duraglas I am using, DA 40 grit sander disks to provide a profile for the KBS frame coating, and sine other items, all Carlisle finds. The plan for the frames finish is to make it look good but leaving all that makes this frame original: the slight putting, the remains of the many mods made to the frame, and basically keeping the " rough original nature" of the frame. If I had wanted "frame beautiful" I should have bought new rails and started that way. Since I wanted to stay with an original frane, I did not, so I am keeping it "as is" for the most part....

I have been applying small amounts of filler at a time, using my cheese grater and 40 grit sandpaper to get things "smooth" since 40 grit is what I will use to create the profile.

At this point I believe I have put the last coat if Duraglas on for this portion, pass front, of the frame.

After a once over I will move to the driver side front.
During the down times I have been prepping other areas of the frame for paint. The plan is to use Rust-Oleum for the interior portions of the frame where I cannot form it provide a good profile, and KBS for the areas that I can. Satin black is the color and the match is pretty close between the two ..... making progress again. ..

 

Finally got some paint on the frame - I printed the hidden surfaces of the frame. The pics will explain it more ....




The horizontal surfaces top and bottom and the vertical surfaces will be KBS satin black as will the Rust-Oleum surfaces be satin black.

I still have some areas yet to "finish" duraglasing but I am almost there. Once the interior surfaces are Rusto Satin Black, I will profile the "outside" surfaces and apply the KBS .....

I keep chipping away .....

 

Finished Duraglasing and got the frame painted. I started from the inside out, working on the areas I did not prime with Rust-Oleum ...

I did a thin coat, watching for runs - this stuff loves to run so thin costs are a must. The frame rails came out pretty nice with just the first coat ...



The KBS dried quickly and I applied a second thing coat which covered many more imperfections. Once the second coat was dry, I painted the primed ares with Rusto satin black ...


Next up is to finish coat with Rusto in the primed areas and perhaps do a final coat of KBS on the sides of the frame rails and the entire front rails in front of the firewall after scuffing up of those areas.

I'll be back on it on Thursday - got the grands tomorrow and Gabby and I are priming the interior of the race trailer for Bonneville on Wed.

 

I have finished the painting of the frame and I start final assembly tomorrow ....



I'll start with the brake lines and all things interior to the frame and work my way out ..... I can see the light at the end of the tunnel ....

 

My quicky brake and fuel line and pedal setup paint rack ....




Got most of the brake lines in - save for the mc portion but the pedal setup is painted so that's next ....

 

Got the pedal setup in place and removed the t-out bearing carrier (looks like a 40 Ford unit but purchased it from Krylon who builds in the sleeve that slips right over the S10 tranny shaft) so I can shave off a 1/4".

The blue tape is there to protect the frame and arm paint surface. Had a minor problem with the pedal setup. I purchased it off a HAMBr (el polaco I think?) and it's specifically for the 32. It's a two piece unit that sandwiches the K member leg between the pedal portion and the lower mc mount piece.

Problem was that the mc mount plate was not level. I played with it a little bit, adding a 4th bolt to pull the one side down while shimming the other side ...

You can't see the added bolt but the shim is there and marked for cutting tomorrow, and it is now level. I also need to get slightly longer grade 8 bolts to complete the sandwich 'en of the kids member leg between both parts. Once I finish this tomorrow I will mount the freshly painted mc. I am pumped being in the assembly stage .....

 

Tom, is that an HPG1 fuel filter?
How do you like it? Have you used them before?

 

Never used it before but jacksandeuces has and likes them. Just an added layer if protection ....

 

Got the fe installed today after cleaning and painting, fixed the mc mount, made a few parts runs, and @95 degrees I'm done for the day ..



Need to make a 1 1/2" spacer for the rear to keep the ride height (should drop that much once the car settles with weight), bleed the mc and finish the lines. There's a long list of to dos .....

 

Although not in my shop today, I was able to get a few things done. First, if you remember I wanted to box the front frame horns. I made a pattern for both sides and jacksandeuces had a pair of boxing plates for me to cut from. Thanks Jack ....

I also needed to cut down the t-out bearing stock looking 40 Ford carrier to accommodate my t-out setup. I visited Havlir's House of Fab and he trimmed it down 1/4" for me in his lathe. First problem was where to grab it from. This carrier, sold by Krylon, has the sleeve already pressed into it if using a T5. Since the sleeve protruded about 3/32" on the back side, that was enough to grab it by....

Dave carefully shaved off the .250 thou needed about 5 thou at a time ....

Now is ready for reinstall ....

Thanks, Dave - back in the garage tomorrow ....

 

Got the front frame horn boxing plates cut out and installed today.


Had an issue with the rear backing plate bolts I resolved (never get the cheap ones - broke two, had to cut out another and that took 3 hours. Luckily I had four originals from a Bronco rear lying around) and I hope to assemble the tranny back together with the cut down carrier.

The faint blue line is where the t-out bearing resided before when leaning up against the pressure plate when at rest. I will install it back on the motor tomorrow ....

 

Wow Tom! This looks great! I'm shocked you are going with a nailhead, I know your love for the flattie. Let us know how your baffles work, you aren't the only one that will copy without abandon!

 

Great to hear from you oj - I still do love my flatties and once my wife's 40 Ford Pickup is done, my roadster will become a "test mule" for at least 3 flattie builds so no, I have not lost my flattie fever. I chose a Nailhead because I ended up with one at the start of this project and I just went with it .....

Anytime you might be coming down to the Burg, please let me know so we can hang out and swap more truth than lies for once! Lol!

 

Nice work.

 

Thank you - I have always admired your avatar as I have a soft spot for 40 Ford pickups. That's my next build for the wife ....