Technical Either broke my M20 or damaged the clutch seriously

Driving the Ford to the gym about an hour ago, came off a light did a quick 1-2 shift, going for the 2-3 shift and it jumped out of gear hard. It has done that a couple of times, my shifter is adjusted correctly and it is a Hurst Comp Plus. I know the transmission is not exactly factory fresh. Clutch is a Zoom diaphragm for a C30 Chevy C30truck, 11". Bellhousing is a cast iron '55 Chevy. TOB is Zoom.

Engine revved and I got out of the gas immediately. The engine is fine... whew. I don't think it got above 5K. Then I noticed the noise. I first thought I had no 3rd, it was hard to tell and didn't feel too lucky fishing for another gear and was afraid of locking the whole thing up. I had 4th so decided to limp home, I was pretty close only a couple of miles on the back roads. The shifter is not hung up at all.

Creeping along, slipping the clutch a little, only came to a stop once. I could do 30 with it with something banging all the way, clutch in or out. But the clutch was working. Sitting at idle in neutral it was noisy, I was going to back it into the garage, had a very noisy reverse. Again, it could be all clutch. The engine starts fine, looked under it and no puddle or visible internals. I will look at it on Saturday and report what I find.

 

I'm hoping for the best for you but my past experience makes me think ******. I hope I'm wrong though. It wouldn't be the first time. Good luck.

 

In my past experiences, if the clutch is broken, the pedal does not move.

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I'm not much help Bob but the T-10 in my 57 did that, mostly when decelerating.

Here is a lot of discussion on the subject.
https://www.google.com/search?q=mun...0l2.10925j0j8&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8

 

Thanks guys, been thinking it through, probably broke something on the countershaft.

 

They do break. There are some real whizzes on here that can have you back together.

 

Since you said it jumped out before. Engagement teeth/spline worn on gear and slider will cause a gear to pop out. Time to open things up and see where it all started and how much damage has been done.

 

In my experience...when a trans sounds and feels like it's falling apart and eating itself...
...it is.
Talk about noises...I killed a trans in a semi truck lol.

 

Thanks, will keep that in mind. I'll look for some HAMB vendors as an option.

 

I know we have some random parts depending on what broke.

 

Gosh, I remember that...Rev, clutch, shift... =BOOM!= So many times, I hope I get credit on Judgement Day

 

I had a 57 chevy with a zoom clutch and a 4 speed. Outside of Ukiah, California on a gravel, logging road, [don't ask] I caught something under the car and it made a buncha noise . When I got to town I put it up on the rack to find the clutch fork had leaped off it's pivot ball. Popped it back on and continued on with my life. I hope your problem is as simple as mine was...

 

Drain the transmission and check for metal chunks or shavings. Jack the car up and put it on stands and run it and check it out . Quit going to gym and building all those muscles, maybe you pulled too hard on the shifter.

 

When mine did that, the cluster blew and took out the input shaft gears. I pulled it out and shook it before tearing it down. It sounded like the world's largest maraca!

 

Actually jarred my wrist, the force was strong with whatever broke. I've been shifting this thing hard lately, put traction bars on it last week, reveling in no more wheel hop action. My buddy is stopping over after work and we'll look at it. I put a new side cover ***embly on it in 2016 (broke a shift arm stud off) and the internals looked pretty good. It had always been a good-shifting box.

 

My buddy is coming over tonight and I'll get the car up in the air for a look see. What gets me thinking is that the gawd-awful noise is evident at a stop, in neutral. The input shaft is not turning, yet I have a big time noise, which I have yet to pin point. So I'd think that eliminates the transmission internals. I could have blown a spring off the clutch disc or shrapneled the TO bearing, it may even be partly off the fork.

I was very careful about shifting on my way home, as not to get it jammed between 2 gears and leave me stuck. Any opinions? Some of my shift woes may have been due to the clutch not completely releasing.

 

The input shaft may be turning in neutral, depends if the clutch is disengaged or not.If the clutch is engaged, the input shaft runs the cluster gear and some other internals, just no syncro hub connection to the output (main) shaft.

Ray

 

At this point all things need to be looked into. The 3rd gear popping may be due to input shaft not being in true center line of engine crank as well. I'd check everything from the back of the engine block back bit by bit. No sense in putting new parts in if things do not line up correctly.

 

damn hooligan.....

 

I am brain damaged. The input shaft is splined to the clutch. So that always spins. It must be something below the main shaft or at least a blown synchro ring.

 

You need an M22 rock crusher.

 

Maybe I missed something. If the clutch is in at an idle and the trans is in gear nothing in the trans is turning so the noise/problem would be clutch, bearing etc. if the noise is still evident.

 

No matter what the noise is, you will be pulling the trans out. Let us see the Carnage (with pics) when you put in on the bench

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Well you are going to have to pull the cover off the bottom anyhow so that may tell about the clutch. Like a damned fool I drove my 48 way too many miles with no cover on the bottom and had to stop and dig gravel out of the pressure plate at least once on freshly graveled road.

 

Bet you bent a shift fork and its hunting for a hole. Guess you could have toasted a u-joint

Of course now you got me worried I am using a Sag 3 speed in my current build.

 

Just too much noise and it shifts hard, if I can get it to shift. Felt like it was bound up at one point on my crawl home. I may buy one on eBay if it is damaged, then fix the broke one. Sell the eBay one.

 

The input shaft always turns, splined to the disc. I missed this earlier and had to think about it. The countershaft doesn't have to turn at idle in neutral. So whatever it is probably involves the countershaft and a synchro that may have grenaded. Maybe a gear on the main shaft.

 

With car in gear and not moving with clutch pedal depressed nothing in the trans will be turning. If you still have noise it is in the pressure plate or throw out bearing or forward.

 

Shoot! I read the first half yesterday, subscribed, and returned today. Hoped the car would have been 'hoisted', inspection pan (is there one? Which bellhousing?) down, and a clutch/T.O. brg./ fork inspection done.

Reminds me of a funny thing that happened to a friend of mine...We were side-by-side, 3rd gear, about 90 mph...Dave was in his O.T. BMW 535i, and I was driving my wife's 635 BMW Coupe. Dave went to hang a big shift to 4th, but cross-gated it, into 2nd..."Whaaaaa" It over-revved (a LOT!) and the car shuddered, he slowed drastically, I got out of the way, then as he slowed to a stop, I went back. Strange symptoms...
Engine was SO out of balance it would shake the car at idle! Called the tow truck, next morning had car on the hoist, pulled ******. The sudden decel had wrested the pressure plate anvil off its center: the 'trailing tabs' that connect it to the clutch cover had buckled, and took the poor disc with it.
The pressure plate is 'Uni-Directional'...
Boy, I bet that Beamer was surprised!

 

I had a problem kinda like this on a SBC and it turned out to be a broken crank at the rear throw. Hope your luck was/is better than mine. D