Projects 56 Chevy truck dropped axle

In my opinion, you need to figure out what YOU want it to be and ride/drive like based on how YOU will be using it. I do not believe these were made to cruise 75-80 mph down an interstate back in their day. If you want a more nostalgic ride that rides with 60 year old truck characteristics (better than original tho) work with updated solid axle items - i.e. figuring out spring mods, caster, shocks, sway bars etc. IFS would probably get it closer to what you are used to in your daily driver. Disc brakes will not fade as bad and be safer at higher speeds than the original drums up front. Plus the original brake system has a single master cylinder and a dual one is much safer. There are new trucks with solid front axles so why shouldn't you be able to have one in yours? Yes, a lot to figure out for sure. Good options and opinions both ways depending on usage, $$ available, and your resources. Here are a couple threads. The second is a good one for the solid axle camp.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...truck-lowering-question.442391/#post-12379780
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...upgrades-that-made-a-huge-difference.1067517/

 

how so? If you let your brake system get really bad, with rusted lines, frayed hoses, leaking wheel cylinders...it's possible that a dual master cylinder, if set up properly, could save you in some situations. But if you keep up on maintenance, there is no safety advantage to a dual MC, is there?

 

That’s some pretty good info. I’m thinking I want to be as little into this front suspension as safe and possible to do. That way if I don’t like it I can always go a different route. I’m on a budget like everyone. This truck should of been done 2 years ago. But my builder which is my best friends brother stole all my parts. Stole my 350 and LS2, chrome tilt steering column. My 18 inch wheels I bought for it. Headlights and some other stuff. So now I’m back to square one. So I just want to drive the truck and have it ride good. Trust me I wanted to set it up so I can take corners and go to the beach which is a 2 hour drive. But I don’t think the front axle and leafs are capable. I’m wrong a lot though

 

For many who build these pickups, it become traditional to use a Camera/Firebird clip. You can use '83-'88 rear pickup springs if you drill the fame and use grade #8 fasteners and take care when removing the donor hangers to grind down the rivets. Don't weld axle pads on rear-end until you have everything installed: engine, transmission, battery. And, of course, cab, and bed. .Then, check angle of trans rear shaft, pinion angle to zero. I used a 9" Ford with re-drilled axles & drums. What you get. Front disc brakes. Power steering. Automatic transmission. I used an early Nova automatic transmission shifter column and the PU shaft, with a Borgenson u-joint directly to the steering box, with a cut down column drop. I had a 4 spoke mini sprint car wheel and stuck that on. 14" diameter. It is still in the truck. Had the radiator recored to a four core. 350 cu.in. Small block Chevy. 350 auto transmission. You have to get a drive shaft made. I built it under a shade tree. No comparison to stock drive train. I built it to use as a truck. Money for money, and I rebuilt spring trunions, steering box, replaced tie rod ends, greased, rebuilt engine and added better floor shifter, and added '54 car hubs and '57 p***enger car rear end for five lug wheels, plus dual exhaust manifold on another '55. No comparison to clip and new rear springs. Plus the late model gear is as dependable as a mule, to get in and boogie. If you are thinking of driving to other states at freeway speeds and stopping when you have to, later underpinnings are better; also a truck is useful in getting stuff home for other projects. And, I built it to get around the h***le of a yearly smog check. It p***ed an initial one and I was on first base. I'm sure, now, it's probably a lot different. But, I am long gone, too. If you do the dropped axle deal, remember, we are taught by experience. No shame in doing it over --- down the road.

 

There’s just so much that can go wrong with the Camaro Clip. I have a frame with the Camaro Clip installed already. But I don’t really know if the dimensions are good or square. It needs new brakes, bushings, steering box, ball joints

 

You can get decent ride and handling with the solid axle. Do you plan to use it as a truck or for light duty? If you don't need the heavy duty springs you can remove some leaves for a softer ride. Make sure the leaves are clean of rust and have the proper sliders in between so they can work freely.

Get an alignment done and put new shock absorbers all around. You can make the steering easier by reducing the caster but if you do, put on a steering damper to eliminate shimmy.

Soft springs, new shocks, and radial tires will give you good ride and handling. You might want to pump up the tires to 30 PSI for easier steering.

The same thing goes for the back re soft flexible springs, good shocks and radial tires.

Do these things and you will have very acceptable ride on smooth roads and streets. In rougher going you do not have the flexibility or travel of a coil spring IFS so you will have to slow down a bit.

If you do haul loads or tow a trailer you will want heavier springs, you may want to consult a spring shop about this. They can recondition and rearch your springs with new sliders, shackle bushings etc. And they can also reverse the main leaf for an extra inch of lowering and maybe flatten them out a bit.

 

I’m afraid my leafs are too straight now with no weight on them. My local spring shop reworked my front leafs already

 

Even if all things are well maintained there’s still a safety factor in your system as in today’s cars just in case something happens. You also get the application of the front brakes first keeping the back end from locking up and coming around, especially if you go disc/drum combo. There are plenty of rods out there with single cylinder and they must work just fine. But you don’t see many aftermarket kits with only single reservoir master cylinders. Research, research, research.


Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.

 

you don't see many kits for anything that are intended to make things simpler, do you?

I know all about it.

 

Many people fail to understand that the secondary circuit is only as good as the primary circuit is adjusted as well. In other words. The other half that you think is going to save you needs the other half to work right. If it don't, your still left with NOTHING.

 

I am not from over the mountain. I have been to this dance before. If you don't want the slop in the suspension to drive a parallel spring Chevy pickup of these years, it is absolutely imperative for you to rebuild, or replace the trunions on the end of the springs, and grease them on a schedule to prevent the same wear that causes the older ones to generate forces that causes the truck to ride like ****. The engineering is sound. But, most were driven off the Dealer's lot and never greased. The secret is maintenance. Plus, these trucks are fitted with spindles with ball bearings. They are fine if lubricated with the proper grease but wear quickly if not accounting for more deviation from the norm. Add, the high mileage low lubricated steering sector and it drives itself while you struggle to keep up. Hint: replace wear parts. Lubricate religiously. Replace and repair all systems as needed. I drove a bone stock , high mileage unit that had a rebuilt engine and brakes cross country and back, and put thousands more miles on it. They are good basic transportation, and can haul anything within reason. You just have to stay on top of the maintenance once you get it where it is trouble free. The engine is unbeatable for torque and economy. Trouble is, I'm a hot rodder and can never be satisfied with 'stock'.

 

This is my truck in Texas, 1971. On that holiday, we went from Texas to Las Vegas and back, and it was fun.
At the time, it was powered by a 350, 396, with an M21 4 spd and overdrive. Rear end was 57 Chev 3.73 posi.
Suspension stock with Gabriel air shocks. It drove just fine, and surprised a lot of drivers on the highway. Even with that load, because of the right gears, it would haul ***.
It went even better when I installed the 4.57 3/4 ton rear end with 8 X15 inch rims and big tires.
Even when I changed to the 4x4 with front disks, I used a single reservoir brake master cylinder with an adjustable proportioning valve. It was no big deal using trial and error to get them adjusted properly.
What I am getting at, is that when the suspension is tight, these trucks can be fun to drive just the way they are, and they can do useful work as well.
Sorry about the colour balance in the photo, I just scanned the slide, and I will have to do some figuring to get the correct colour balance.
Bob

 

Hey guys I’ve decided on using the dropped axle and front leafs. Should I try my front leafs out and see how they ride or should I replace them? If needed replaced what do you recommend? Posies, stock with some leafs pulled out of whatever else? Also what rear leafs are best. My axle is flipped already. And what about a recommendation for the disc brake kit. I’ll do the disc because right now I’m 6 lug in front and 5 lug in the rear. Thanks again guys

 

Posie Super Sliders, Sway bars and Bilstein shocks. Truck drove great. An IFS was never a thought.
Springs were big improvement but needs a sway bar because of body roll.
But the biggest change came with the Bilsteins. All shocks are not the same!!!!!! Spend the $90 each. The harshness of the truck ride was gone just like that. I ordered a set for my 35 coupe the next day. Same thing...Big improvement.

 

you can use 1951-54 Chevy car brake drums/hubs to convert the front drum brakes to 5 lug. Really easy swap, if you can find the parts.

 

^^^^^ With all the disc brake swapping going on these day's I don't see it being that hard. At least in So. Cal it not hard to find some.

 

When doing this, also make sure your king pins are in good condition. In addition if you use the original hubs replace the original style wheel BALL bearings with new TAPERED ROLLER bearings. But if you do a 5 lug kit which has the entire hub it should come with new roller bearings.

 

Oh, ball bearings work fine....you just have to maintain them.

 

I’ll prob definitely go with disc brakes up front. I need a new booster anyway. Is there a good place to order all this stuff?

 

Hey guys I have 2 Rearend’s. One is a GM 12 bolt and one is I believe out of a late 90’s early 2000 camaro. It is supposed to be disc brake but it’s missing everything. Which Rearend would be better to use.

 

Can you guys tell if this looks ok too you