He said I can take as much time as I need to think about it. I'll go take a look at it next weekend and decide from there. I drew up a pickup in microsoft paint, it doesn't look half bad. I like it. Does anyone have any Ford banjo axle bells they don't want?
I just ran into a problem on my rails. The drivers side rail is twisted inward at the bottom between the rear crossmember and the trans mount. I figured I could weld on some angle iron sticking two feet or so up, and on the other side about a half a foot to one foot since it also has a twist, not near as bad as the other side, and use my cargo straps to pull the angle iron together until the rails are straight, then weld the two rails with a bar of angle iron to keep it straight while I box the frame.
There are a bunch of threads here on straightening frames, here are a few. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/frame-straightening-ideas.315329/ http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/backyard-frame-straightening.196447/ http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/straightening-and-measuring-homemade-frame.292706/ http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...s-techniques-on-straightening-a-frame.605846/ http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/how-would-you-fix-this-frame-rail.666085/#post-7397311
Thanks, patmanta! The bottle jack method looks like it should take care of it. It'll keep me from weakening the frame with my crappy welds.
It got warm so I decided to start rebuilding the 59A that I bought. I opened her up to find that she had brand new Pistons, valves, the seats look perfect, the lifters are hollow adjustable Johnsons, the block has been slightly relieved for better oil flow, the heads are from a 221 to add a bit of cheap compression, it's got a 38 aluminum intake manifold, an early forties crab distributor, it's been painted red and it's been recently machined to 3.228" with less than I'd say 10,000 miles on the new surfaces. It must've been a hot rod engine back in the day. I'm not sure if the previous owner installed the valves and Pistons correctly, though. Can't tell if the .040 Pistons have an offset or if the exhaust and intake valves have a different grind on them. It also looks like the valves were bought one at a time, and each time he bought one the last company that made them went out of business. Did the valves have different grinds like the 8BA, or were they all the same? I'll try to get a picture of the Pistons tonight so hopefully someone can tell me if that brand is offset or if they are race Pistons. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I just happened to find the perfect rear end today. One of the guys I know sent me a message and said he had a 1939 ford banjo he would give me for a hundred bucks. These things are sweet. I kind of want to grind off the hubcap clips and leave it as is.
nice project bro. you have countless options on which way to go with your build. a 28-29 sport coupe is neat and not many around, that will be unique. you can modify and brace up the stock ctr crossmember to fit the 3 spd. easy and no money needed {just scrap metal tubing and/or anglebar} OR you can buy the tardel x-member for 450. wide five wheels are cool too. not many people running them anymore=unique again.
If you can remove the clips intact you might be able to pick up a few bucks selling them. Try an ad here and on fordbarn. They always break and I don't think they are reproduced. Charlie Stephens
Wheeldog57, my friend brought me a bunch of scrap charging tubes from work, I might see about bracing the crossmember with those if they're strong enough. Haven't really looked too hard at them. Charlie, thanks for the heads up on the clips. I'm trying to grind the rivets down so I can pop them out, they must be welded in or something. These suckers are stuck in tight! Can anyone show me the rear radius rods on a wide five banjo? All the info I find is awfully conflicting. I just need a closeup of the brackets on the bells. I can't quite tell how they attach, I'm thinking the original ones might have been ground off.
The flathead has 'high duty Ford 0' Pistons that were popular in the fifties. There is no noticeable offset, and I'm pretty sure the '29A D' on the rods face to the front. The question is, does the oil passage that is cut into the piston face up, or down?
No cylinder numbers. There is an 'L2' stamped on the rods and clamps, and it looks like someone hammered an ice pick into the sides of both. I'm guessing that's what they used to check what cylinder they belong in.
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