Please keep posting progress pictures on this build. I picked up a 30 coupe a few weeks ago & I am following your build. My vision of my build closely follows your thoughts. Thank you. Bill
Where can we see pictures of yours Bill? You know on here it didn't happen if there's no pictures lol
View attachment 3904232 I wanted to get more primer back behind the newly installed rain gutters as welding them in burned off some of the weld through primer. I taped off the gutters per the below photo and worked the primer into the gap behind the top of the gutter with a 1" brush till it was dripping out the bottom of the gutter then moved to the other side and repeated this three times. How does everyone else paint the inside of their gutters? This would also apply to the trunk area gutter as you can not spray around a corner and using a small brush still will not get the back side of the upper lip. I was looking through my house painting supplies and found one of those painting pads you buy at home depot that come with a wand for painting the bottom of doors. I figured if I cut it down and made a bent sheet metal wand it could work. View attachment 3904234 I added tape to the bent sheet metal handle till it fit snugly in the plastic slot on the back of the pad. I have not tried it yet but will report back on if it works.
Not wanting to hi jack etboy97's thread and I'm not ready to start a new thread yet. Bought from a local friend.
I have rounded up the bottom and side of a p/s window......would you have a workable top piece lying around???
Not sure how I missed this thread! You are doing a great job documenting as you go and you have skills! I just read the whole thing and looking forward to more. Thanks for sharing.
I tried using my gutter painting pad device that is pictured in my post from a couple days ago and it worked really well. The epoxy primer did dissolve the glue holding the pad onto the plastic part after a little while so it took two pads to do both of the rain gutters and the trunk gutter.
I wanted to take a stab at getting my clutch linkage working before putting the body back on the frame to work on the balance of the floor area. I took out the temp trans I had in place and installed the actual T-5 trans I will be using. I made a cardboard template of the new flange I wanted to add to the bottom of the clutch pedal. Once that fit I made the steel one out of 3/8" plate. I tacked it in place and installed a linkage I had made. It seems to work okay. Will see how it feels while seated. I will refine the linkage some. The body is back on the frame and I will start the balance of the floor work.
Good stuff. Your build is very similar to mine. When you get to the point of installing new wood is it possible for you be as detailed photo wise? I'll be doing new top wood and this is my first go at it! Much appreciated
JJ, just went thru this. Didn't have any wood to start with but @sloppy jalopies up in ME helped me out with some pieces and I added to that. I have some pics I can share that I pulled off the web that helped me with the brackets etc. Don't mean to hijack this thread just trying to help here.
Thanks @etboy97 , I’ll go back and check them out again. Update: I went back and re-read the thread. When we read these as subscribed, the updates trickle in. (Definitely not a comment on your rate of progress!) It is easy to lose track of what was read or seen where. Your level of documentation and the quality of your work are what makes the H.A.M.B. such a fantastic resource especially for newbs like myself. Thank you for spending the extra time and effort!
With the body back on I reinstalled the seat and decided I was not happy with the pedal placement and wanted them forward more giving more leg room. I moved them forward as much as physically possible which was about 1.5" before the pedal arms run into the mid engine mounts and the bellhousing. The Olds motor has a long tail on it. I started mocking up the front floor area in cardboard. With the toe board in the stock location the lower portion of the pedal arms stick through. I mocked up a raised toe board area at the pedals but did not like the lost floor space. I need to make sure I leave enough room behind the seat for a roll down rear window. I cant move the pedals forward any more. I could lower the pedal assembly but if I lowered it enough to get it to work with the original toe board location the bottom of the pedal assembly and the master cylinder would be hanging down below bottom of the frame which is not acceptable to me. These F1 pedals seem long but they are a perfect 6 to 1 ratio so I don't want to mess with that. Some of the aftermarket pedals are shorter but in looking at one I had in my scrap pile, while being a better fit would still protrude the floor some. My current thought is to live with the lower pedal arms coming up through the floor and building a aftermarket Model T type pedal slot seals.
With the cardboard floor templates the way I wanted them I started fabricating. First I made a bracket to mount the hand brake to the trans. The floor is going to be removable.
I was a little worried that the floor might be hard to get out once I had it all tacked together but it came out okay. All welded up and back in place.
Got my pedal slot seals built. I started with a cardboard mock up. I decided to use brushes instead of rubber sheet to start with. These are door bottom sweeps I already had left over from a construction project. It seems to work okay. Will have to see if they last. I did smooth out the brake pedal arms so they would slide through easier.
The Jalopy Journal
