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Technical Foam for '60s seats rebuild

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by jaalcom, May 29, 2018.

  1. jaalcom
    Joined: May 8, 2017
    Posts: 55

    jaalcom
    Member
    from Maryland

    I'm hoping to hear some personal experience regarding foam selection when rebuilding '60s era seats. My preference is to not use pre-made seat buns but instead to build my own. I've already decided on a density factor of 2.8 for extended lifespan but am having a difficult time choosing weight. I was thinking 2" 50# or 70# for the seat bottoms (front buckets and rear bench). For the seat backs I was thinking maybe 35# for rear bench back and either 35# or 50# for the bucket backs, again in 2".

    Yes, the foam will be used in conjunction with burlap and batting as OEM. ;)
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  2. desotot
    Joined: Jan 29, 2008
    Posts: 2,051

    desotot
    Member

    What kind of seats? they are all different.
     
  3. jaalcom
    Joined: May 8, 2017
    Posts: 55

    jaalcom
    Member
    from Maryland

    Appreciate the interest desotot!

    The seats are '65 Impala. They originally had poured (molded) foam for the buckets and rear seat bottom. Rear seat back was quilted cotton batting. I'm also leaning towards adding a pair of tie wires across the bucket seat bottoms for a bit of added support as the four center zig zags are unsupported front to rear. Looking to firm them up just a tad.
     
  4. desotot
    Joined: Jan 29, 2008
    Posts: 2,051

    desotot
    Member

    Lots of stiffeners are a good plan.My avatar has those seats and I used 1" high density foam. My supplier has 1"x22"x80" high density foam that I use a lot. It can be layered and shaped quite nicely. I sand them with a sanding disc on a small angle grinder.
     
  5. stanlow69
    Joined: Feb 21, 2010
    Posts: 7,346

    stanlow69
    Member Emeritus

    A guy brought me the seats out of a 63 Chrysler. Basically the same style of seats. The foam was shot. I used the seat buns out of a Ford Crown Vic, about a 2000 or so. They fit pretty good. You can use a turkey cutter(electric knife) and also use a glue called Camie. Works real good gluing foam to foam. Why guess what kind of foam might work good. The automobile designes have spent years doing this for you already.
     
  6. Kan Kustom
    Joined: Jul 20, 2009
    Posts: 2,744

    Kan Kustom
    Member

    Watching this thread. Good input so far.
     
  7. jaalcom
    Joined: May 8, 2017
    Posts: 55

    jaalcom
    Member
    from Maryland

    Thanks again!
    Ha! So you know how "soft centered" these seats are. ;-)

    Any idea what the weight was of that high density foam you used. Did you use the same foam for the base and backs?

    You inadvertantly hit on my actual intention. I wont actually be purchasing 2" foam, instead it will be 1" layered. Layering 1" also provides opportunity to mix-n-match weights if appropriate. The bolsters are not very large on these seats but they are there and need a little buildup.
     
    Last edited: May 30, 2018
  8. jaalcom
    Joined: May 8, 2017
    Posts: 55

    jaalcom
    Member
    from Maryland

    Appreciate the reply!

    Good call on the Camie! I have a can of 303 within arms reach as I type this. ;-)

    I've reupholstered a half dozen or so seats over the years that, up 'til now, have had decent foam. Most required only slight foam repair. This included replacement of small torn/worn sections of bolsters or as little as simply adding a 1/2" foam topper and batting to liven it up a bit. As for sourcing foam from other model seating -- That sounds like a daunting task both in finding foam with good fit and decent condition.

    That question is best answered by your suscinct signature "You don`t understand, It`s not all about the money." First and foremost, it's about sense of accomplishment. I expect this is why most of us take on the old-car challange. Secondly, I've looked at an off-t******lf aftermarket bun for these seats and they very much look like low density (1.8) shaped foam good for 5-8 years in optimal cir***stances. Being able to choose 2.8 density provides a much greater lifespan (10-15 years).

    I posed the OP in this forum as there are undoubtedly those like youselves, both hobbiest and upholstery pros, that frequent this board and are able to provide practical insight to other do-it-yourselfer's.
     
    milwscruffy likes this.
  9. dana barlow
    Joined: May 30, 2006
    Posts: 5,444

    dana barlow
    Member
    from Miami Fla.

    If you have a good upholstery supply shop with in reach,they should have foam they cut to size an "How hard it is by number" two layers/bottom harder then top is best. Or find a junkyard an buy seats out of a fairly new car with close to size,an rob there foam etc. to use in your older seats. Cutting off built in headrest.
     
  10. jaalcom
    Joined: May 8, 2017
    Posts: 55

    jaalcom
    Member
    from Maryland

    Thanks Dana!

    I never dreamed how difficult it would be to locate a "good" upholstery shop locally. The three I visited were absolutely pitiful -- Dingy, unorganized and downright scary looking. My intention was to possibly purchase some supplies (Baker clips, listing wire, 8ga zig zag, etc) to restock. I figured that might earn me a few answered questions such as I posed here but they had no supplies so I didn't even bother to ask.
     
  11. stanlow69
    Joined: Feb 21, 2010
    Posts: 7,346

    stanlow69
    Member Emeritus

    I go to U-Pull it. I hate after market foam buns. They never seem to fit. They are usually to small or need more shaping done to them. And are costly.
     

    Attached Files:

  12. jaalcom
    Joined: May 8, 2017
    Posts: 55

    jaalcom
    Member
    from Maryland

    For all the reasons you list -- If I weren't set on foam-from-scratch the U-Pull it option would definitely trump off the shelf buns. "If" Legendary made buns for these seats that might be the exception but then again, they would also come with an appropriate price tag.

    That scan is a great primer for anyone looking at foam specs. :cool:
     
  13. stanlow69
    Joined: Feb 21, 2010
    Posts: 7,346

    stanlow69
    Member Emeritus

    The seat backs, use inch foam. Two inch might be a bit much. I start with a layer of burlap. Then top that with a layer of bonded foam carpet pad. This takes away the feel of the springs. Then use a layer of HR 1 inch foam. Then the covering. The covers I make are backed with 1/2 inch scrim foam on the faces. This gives the material strength and looks good too. The side bolsters and everywhere else, I use 1/4 scrim backed foam.
     
  14. dana barlow
    Joined: May 30, 2006
    Posts: 5,444

    dana barlow
    Member
    from Miami Fla.

  15. jaalcom
    Joined: May 8, 2017
    Posts: 55

    jaalcom
    Member
    from Maryland

    Many thanks!

    I know we were talking rear seat back but I'll lay out what my overall gameplan was -- After initial research I planned to use 12oz burlap followed by .5" felt. On top of that would be 1.5"-2.0" foam followed by up to .5" batting. My purchased seat covers are made with .25" foam backing (.5" at center section of rear seat). After further research (and generous input as from this thread) it seems I should adjust this a bit.

    If sticking with a burlap deck, .5" rebond foam may be a better second layer to, as you note, provide better support for the main layer of foam. If I decide to stay with felt, heavy denim might be a better choice for a deck pad. I know you mentioned 1" foam for the rear seat back. I'm not sure if you intended that to be a model for all seats or just for the lesser supportive needs of the rear seat back. I'm ***uming you were just shooting for a 2" "overall" thickness and applicable to all seats.

    Here is where my head is at now:
    For all seat backs and bottoms -- 12oz burlap and .5" rebond foam OR heavy denim and .5" felt.
    Front seat bottoms -- 1" (or 1.5") 2870 cut & contoured.
    Front seat backs -- 1" (or 1.5") 2850 (or 2835) cut & contoured.
    Rear seat bottom -- 1" (or 1.5") 2870 (or 2850).
    Rear seat back -- 1" (or 1.5") 2835.
    For all seat backs and bottoms -- .5" synthetic batting as required.

    Please, nobody hesitate to set me straight.

    Reference links:
    Foam Factory foam selection
    2835 foam (HD36-HQ)
    2850 foam (LUX-HQ)
    2870 foam (SUPER MAX)
    rear_sear_base_cover1.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2018
  16. jaalcom
    Joined: May 8, 2017
    Posts: 55

    jaalcom
    Member
    from Maryland

    Thanks again Dana!

    That was a real nice project thread you posted. Have to say you did a bang-up job on that interior, all the while using mom's sewing machine! Lots of great info contained within. While gaining a good bit of insight from it I also appreciated the link posted in there to DanTwoLake's tutorials at the HotRodders Forum.
     
    dana barlow likes this.
  17. stanlow69
    Joined: Feb 21, 2010
    Posts: 7,346

    stanlow69
    Member Emeritus

    I`ll post pics later of the seats I`m doing now. 59 Chevy 2-dr wagon.
     
  18. jaalcom
    Joined: May 8, 2017
    Posts: 55

    jaalcom
    Member
    from Maryland

    Sounds great, look forward to it. ;-)
     
  19. Truck64
    Joined: Oct 18, 2015
    Posts: 5,325

    Truck64
    Member
    from Ioway

    Any updates? I called a local place and talked to a nice lady, but she wants me to provide the foam, says they don't have the right kind. I figure that's what they get paid for - ordering the right stuff. It looks pretty spendy. I saw one set for about $300 - the backrest and seat.

    Then I see the covers for a couple bills, maybe the springs need work, plus labor and other materials. So maybe $800 or $900 when all is said (guessing); just about the price for new manufacture bucket seats and brackets. A good bench seat is damn comfortable though.
     

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