Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical Lockar shifter, altering it's length ?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by BigO, Jun 2, 2018.

  1. BigO
    Joined: Jun 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,459

    BigO
    Member Emeritus

    Hey guys and dolls, I just bought a '47 Ford with a very tall Lokar shifter, I've never had one and don't know how it's put together so I'd rather ask fist and not get myself into trouble. So, here's what i'm asking, has anyone shortened one before or is it not a good idea, they are too expensive to just replace. Thanks for the help. BigO (Michael)
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  2. 2935ford
    Joined: Jan 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,850

    2935ford
    Member

    Inside the lever is a cable. Not sure how you shorten it?
     
  3. greybeard360
    Joined: Feb 28, 2008
    Posts: 2,098

    greybeard360
    Member

    Be hard to do. You may be able to buy just the stick thru them.
     
    BigO likes this.
  4. 4wd1936
    Joined: Mar 16, 2009
    Posts: 1,319

    4wd1936
    Member
    from NY

    As I recall the cable is actually the wound outer cable used for all kinds of applications. All it does is push on the locking mechanism. I don't see why you couldn't cut both it and the shifter the same amount and rethread the tube for your knob.
     
    BigO likes this.
  5. Call lokar,
    They will sell a shorter stick or any other part of the shifter ***embly you need.

    Where's that little bracket, for the shifter?
    I don't know you had it.
    Doesn't matter, I need the damn bracket - look for it.
    I've bee looking for an hour and it ain't anyplace I've looked and it damn sure ain't where it's supposed to be.
    Awe ****- call lokar and order it up.
    2 days it shows up on the brown truck.

    A week goes by and then his old lady found it in the dryer.
     
    BigO and Budget36 like this.
  6. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 15,333

    Budget36
    Member


    My life it seems, I'll spend 4 days looking for something, know in I have 3 of them instead of going to town and spending 4 dollars.

    Of course I come across them about an hour after buying one.
     
    reagen and BigO like this.
  7. 26 T Ford RPU
    Joined: Jun 9, 2012
    Posts: 12,595

    26 T Ford RPU
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I have an American Shifter which is a cheap copy of a Lokar and I shortened mine by 5 3/4''. I removed some from both ends and as for the cable just trim it to suit. Weld it up with a TIG. JW
     
    BigO likes this.
  8. BigO
    Joined: Jun 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,459

    BigO
    Member Emeritus

    That's a good thought, thanks.
     
  9. BigO
    Joined: Jun 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,459

    BigO
    Member Emeritus

    Ok, that's reasonable, thanks.
     
  10. BigO
    Joined: Jun 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,459

    BigO
    Member Emeritus

    Haha, that sounds like me , that's Hot Roddin, thanks I'll contact them and go from there.
     
  11. BigO
    Joined: Jun 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,459

    BigO
    Member Emeritus

    Hahaha, gotta love it.
     
  12. BigO
    Joined: Jun 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,459

    BigO
    Member Emeritus

    Thanks, I just didn't want something that should be simple to turn into... well you know.
     
  13. BigO
    Joined: Jun 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,459

    BigO
    Member Emeritus

    Thanks guys for all the help so quick, I love the HAMB.
     
    26 T Ford RPU likes this.
  14. 26 T Ford RPU
    Joined: Jun 9, 2012
    Posts: 12,595

    26 T Ford RPU
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  15. The Lokar "stick" is pretty basic. It's a hollow tube with the cable/stem running up through the inside. The problem is the tube is tapered, 3/8" threaded at the top and 5/8" or 3/4" (I forget the size) at the bottom. This probably means you won't be able to shorten it by half and cut new 3/8" threads at the top with a die because it will be a 1/2" +/- in girth. You might get away with shortening it an inch to inch and a half but no more. (If you're pretty handy and have a well-equipped shop, you maybe could fabricate a male/female adapter to transition back to the 3/8" thread at the top.)

    Some other good options are to trade the long one you have for a shorter one someone else has. The other guy is going to want to also trade your cable for the reverse/park interlock too. Another option is to get rid of the Lokar shift knob and replace it with something radical and funky that you want sitting up high and proud. Lokar has adapter kits for aftermarket knob installs.

    *****I just happen to be one of those guys with a short Lokar shift lever who is looking for a longer one. I haven't done my install yet so I already have a new, long, uncut cable. All I want is the outer lever. I'm your best answer. :cool: Send me a private message and we'll talk.
     
    roundvalley and BigO like this.
  16. 26 T Ford RPU
    Joined: Jun 9, 2012
    Posts: 12,595

    26 T Ford RPU
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    And after. I retained the thread for the Knob by removing some from below it and welding it back on. It very easy to do. JW
    [​IMG]
     
  17. 1956 F100
    Joined: Nov 26, 2007
    Posts: 801

    1956 F100
    Member
    from Louisiana

    I cut mine and rewelded it so the splice was inside the leather boot. Just be sure not to have the weld penetrate through the tube as to prevent the cable from freely sliding.I then cut the cable back so it worked. Was actually pretty easy.
     
    BigO and The Shift Wizard like this.
  18. 26 T Ford RPU
    Joined: Jun 9, 2012
    Posts: 12,595

    26 T Ford RPU
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Good point about the weld/cable interference as I had that issue and the weld was so hard I couldn't drill it, cut the weld out and did it again but better. JW
     
    BigO likes this.
  19. jkski
    Joined: Jan 27, 2009
    Posts: 137

    jkski
    Member

    wound copper wire around a tube the size of the channel,inserted it in the tube with single strand of it sticking out the bottom.Did the weld at the cut pulled on the strand till it all came out.
     
  20. David Gersic
    Joined: Feb 15, 2015
    Posts: 2,814

    David Gersic
    Member
    from DeKalb, IL

    Just buy the shorter stick. It comes with the cable. Swap it out, sell the long stick to recoup most of the cost, and done.


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    robracer1 and roundvalley like this.
  21. 26 T Ford RPU
    Joined: Jun 9, 2012
    Posts: 12,595

    26 T Ford RPU
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    When I had to cut mine it was already the shortest swan neck one. That was what I wanted
    so I had to cut it, was trying for an early Ford look..well kind of. JW
     
    BigO likes this.
  22. BigO
    Joined: Jun 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,459

    BigO
    Member Emeritus

    Thanks , that's what I was afraid of. Great info for me and others.
     
  23. BigO
    Joined: Jun 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,459

    BigO
    Member Emeritus

    Thanks, that can work.
     
  24. BigO
    Joined: Jun 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,459

    BigO
    Member Emeritus

    Thanks for that good point about the weld penetration.
     
  25. Joe H
    Joined: Feb 10, 2008
    Posts: 1,874

    Joe H
    Member

    I bought a shorter stick for mine off e-bay for a decent price, cheaper then from Lokar. I still have the long lever if you mess yours up and need one. Both ends are threaded and the cable could be cut easy enough.
    Joe
     
    BigO likes this.
  26. BigO
    Joined: Jun 21, 2006
    Posts: 3,459

    BigO
    Member Emeritus

    Thanks, thats good to know. Appreciate the offer.
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.