Technical Trying to pull off an ancient steering wheel HELP!

I have had this for years and getting close to finishing my truck and want to use this wheel off of a 1928 Chrysler. I cannot figure out how to take this thing off. I bought a wheel puller but I am afraid to do something wrong and damage the wheel, I believe it is all wood. Maybe someone has done this before? The round metal piece underneath the wheel is not threaded on to anything.
thanks,
Joe

 

Let me know if additional info or pictures are needed to figure this out.

 

Spray the center liberally ('grossly') with PB Blaster, bolt the wheel puller to 2 of the 5/16" holes in the hub. Now screw the puller center down onto a pair of 5/16" flat washers atop the shaft to avoid damage. Tighten the puller slowly, wheel should pop free.

 

Looks to be keyed to the shaft w/ a pin through the back side collar.....How about removing/drilling the pin and then pressing the shaft out from the top??

 

...After the PB Blaster of course

 

Good eye, 'Deuce... Sure didn't see that pin!
"It was like a needle in a ..."

 

I was typing too slow when I wrote about that underside hole you guys saw. read below:

It is a tapered shaft with a key, so the puller should work if it is a good solid puller. I'd use a puller to grab through all 4 boltholes because that aluminum flange might actually be diecast or weak enough to break with pulling on 2 holes.

Look at that tiny hole in the underside pic, that is to oil the top column bushing.

If you pull and it is really stuck bad, cut the column tube and shaft off right under that collar, then use a press if you have one wide enough to get the wheel into it.

.

 

I know that the shaft on my '56 Ford was a ******* to get the wheel off of, especially without collapsing the tube. I cut down a bolt head on a bolt that fit into the shaft, and backed the retainer nut all the way to the end of the threads and STILL had a knock-down, drag-out fight with it and had to rework the threads. Lots of P'Blaster and patience, is all I can suggest.

 

I've had luck with stuck boat propellor shafts in the past heating them slightly, not red or anything near, but too hot to touch comfortably, then hitting every juncture of the two parts I can find with paraffin wax. A candle works fine. The wax will melt and be drawn down into the joint. Then try pulling it or driving it with a hammer on a piece of hard wood on the exposed shaft. Good luck.

 

I just tried to pull it again, had to buy bolts from Tractor Supply as the ones with my puller don't fit. I had to take bolts the whole way through and nut them on the other end. All I accomplished was the bolts bent. I will spray the PB and let sit overnite and try again. The wax seems to be a next step. After that I am cutting the shaft and pressing it of if I can.

 

You might try drilling shaft...Start with a bit slightly larger than the bore and sneak up on it.

 

OR....Cut the shaft off flush w/ the collar and slip the ol` Saws All down the bore and cut over the collar, Then give the shaft a squeeze in your vise. THAT would get it off there.

 

Does it still turn? What turns with the wheel?

 

It took 90 years to get stuck that well so it will not likely want to come off in one afternoon.

I've had the best luck with heat, paraffin, and Kroils and a wheel puller. Use the first 3 things first and then use the wheel puller. Draw it up tight and walk away for a day or two. When you come back and the puller is a little loose then tighten and walk away again.

My experience comes with removing spring shackles on old Dodge trucks. If those come out without a plasma cutter, then one is the king of the hill.

 

+1 on the patience part. That **** has been on there a long, long time. While everybody praises Kano Kroil it isn't sold in stores. Why is that?

Anyway lately I've been partial to Liquid Wrench. PB just reeks. Whatever gets used may take longer than just overnight or a day. I've seen fasteners that wouldn't budge no matter what, a few days later unscrew with finger pressure. Really weird. Give it a spray and bang on it with a hammer, not too hard, but that tends to break up the corrosion and the chemical wicks where it needs to go faster. Wait a day and spray it again. Rinse lather repeat.

 

anybody ever mix up acetone and A/T fluid?! Acetone thins the A/T fluid to water consistency and then...it evaporates!
Leaving the A/T fluid in the crack(so-to-speak!)
I like better than ANY penetrating oil in a can. (and its wayyy cheap!)
6sally6

 

When I turn the wheel all the pieces turn. The plate on the bottom, the plate on top and the threaded shaft. I sprayed the shaft so now I will put pressure on the puller and let it sit. I used to jack up old buildings so I guess I forgot the slow patient approach.

 

There could be a set screw in the hole, that is usually what is used when there is a key.

Sent from my SM-G955U using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Always been a fan of gibbs brand lubricant.
Spray it everywhere you can, turning wheel upside down to let gravity help it get it in.
Some times you have to leave it for a while.
Then gently tap frozen parts with a hammer, (m***ive whack for big jobs).
Never failed me yet, but I don’t do a lot of this stuff.

 

Great news, I was able to fet the wheel pulled. I cut the shaft and managed to put it in my vise. I put pressure on and threw the heat to it and POW! it popped loose. As the Hambers forewarned me I expected a pop but it was still more than I thought it would be. Thanks! Now going to take it to a machinist friend of mine to make it fir a 3 hole column for my truck.