Hot Rods 9 Inch Ford Help!

I am replacing the pumpkin/third member in my 9 inch Ford rear end and have a dilemma. The casing that is in my truck has no fill plug in it, and the third pumpkin/member that I am putting in does not have a fill plug in it. How do I fill check the fluid? Do I need to drill and thread in a filler plug?

 

The 3rd member metal is about 1/8 in. thick so rather than drill and tap,
weld in 2 threaded bungs. One to fill. One to drain. Use pipe thread.

 

Look to see if the boss is cast in your third member. If so just drill and tap. Bones

 

What 19Fordy said..... Might as well add a drain as well.

Reminds me of one of those horrible tv shows. They had same problem and only two minutes to fix. They put a couple quarts of gear lube in ziplock bags and stuffed it together.




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Oh Lordy Lordy!

 

You might check this article on 9" rear ends. Sounds like you've got a WAR casing which might be prone to cracking.
http://www.maliburacing.com/ford_9_inch/ford_nine_inch.htm

 

Seems I saw a tech article on that very subject recently - Street Rodder, Cl***ic Truck or similar pub.

 

Yep, all of them I've seen have the fill plug boss, just not always drilled. Most machine shops can drill/tap that for you... You can do it yourself with a 1/2" pipe tap, but make sure you get all the chips out.

 

An old trick my dad taught me to do in drilling and tapping where you cannot clean the other side, is to use grease on both your bit and tap. The grease with capture most of the shavings and chips. Bones

 

I also used the "grease on drill and tap" trick and a hex head allen screw.
Don't run the tap in too far or you will lose the pipe tap taper.
Do a little at a time and check fit of plug each time. Use non-hardening Permatex.Aluminum plugs won't strip out the steel threads. Just tighten: snug as a bug in a rug.
https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/plug-fittings/fitting-size-1/1-4-in-npt

 

Or you could take a wheel off and let that side down to the ground, jack up the other side, pull the axle, and pour the gear lube down the tube. If it is bordering around 0 degrees and you are working in the alley, you may have to heat the oil up on the kitchen stove (at least until your mom smells what you are doing). Oh! to be young and stupid again; well, at least the young part.

 

I had the same deal three weeks ago, with an 8” going into my shoebox. I didn’t notice til it was all together and ready for oil. Doh!

 

If you know how much oil the rearend requires, how 'bout just removing the air vent hose and fitting and adding the oil thru that hole?

 

I had to use the vent to pull out the old gear lube and add the new gear lube in an O/T rear end.
I have a hand pump, and just attached a piece of hose that was small enough to fit in the tube. It worked like a charm.
Bob

 

Put one axle in and wheel-tire on that axle then set it one the ground. Now jack up the side without axle and pour lube into axle tube then cap it with the other axle.

 

If you have a vent tube jut remove it and fill from there. Did that on a Ford 8.8 rear end.

 

Drill and tap it!
Filling from the vent or axle is ********!

 

I agree....how the hell will you ever check fluid level during maintenance?

 

Easy and fast when your in a hurry. You want serious? I prefer welding bung's in place. One to fill and one to drain.

 

This all depends on where he is at in his build. If it’s in the car complete, drill and tap the third member, with the technique I mentioned earlier. If the rear end is dis***embled, setting on the work bench, weld two bungs in it. Bones

 

So you said initially that you were PUTTING in in (implying it was still out), what's the big dealer drilling and tapping it now?

 

You and F-ONE are so serious it's hilarious.

 

Thanks for all the replies. I ended up drilling and tapping it. Went very well and did not experience any issues.

 

X2.

Ray