Don't need any bells and whistles. Have some new edelbrock stuff on it, aftermarket rockers and need basic block work. Just want it to be good work and worth the money. That's it. Thanks. I want someone who has worked on many FE motors. I don't want to have to go back to the same machine shop twice for the same job they should have done right the first time. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I've had some motorcycle stuff done at Q and E in Anaheim. They do good work and won't rip you off. I believe the guys name is Vince, from what I remember. http://qande.com/site/?page_id=248
Most machine shops should be able to do a FE, if it as Flathead 4 or 8 a Y block or a W I would be really looking closely. For all intentions the FE is a modern engine like the Cleveland, Windsor, BBF, BBC and SBC
You do indeed need a shop who is experienced wth FE's, especially stay away from machinists who are rah-rah Chebbie, as they tend to not care enough to catch and work with the differences. One thing, most FE's don't need a line hone as the factory machining was pretty good, but Chebbie shops tend to want to do it without checking, as Chebbies usually need it, and of course it's more money on the tag
Not in Burbank, but not far away - Automotive Balancing in Baldwin Park, near the intersection of the 210 and 605. Been in business a LONG time, same people. Small shop, excellent work. Mike
Never had a bad experience really. But I went to a couple of shops in la and they had never even heard of an FE motor. So I wasn't sure if that was a good place. Maybe it was. But, I don't wanna take the chance Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Never talked to Burbank speed. I'll give them a call. Will call q and e as well. Actually all these places. Lol. Chebbie. Good to know meangene. And I don't mind driving if it's worth it guys. And sorry for the late response. I'm rarely on here anymore Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Why not ask on the FE forum, they would know the best (and worst) shops. http://www.network54.com/Forum/74182
Called a couple places. Think I'm gonna check out valley head. Give em a try. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Not a FE but I just had the Flathead done by Dave at BMS in San Bernardino. Small shop and a very knowledgeable guy, easy to deal with, and fair prices IMO. Just a thought in case the other shops don't work out for some reason. Telephone : 909 799-7770 Address : 1904 Riverview Dr., Suite 101 , San Bernardino , CA , USA , 92408 More info here: http://hotrodenginetech.com/perfdir/bms-machine/
I had Dougan's do all the machine work on my recent Pontiac 421 rebuild, my friend did all the assembly work. Near the end of this thread I show in detail all of the costs, this may help you get an idea of what they typically charge for machining labor:http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1964-pontiac-421-ho-engine-build.969317 My friend has taken numerous Pontiac engines to them to have the machine work done, he's the go-to guy in his Pontiac club for engine builds. Dougan's always does great work and they're always willing to work with their customers. They most certainly can do the complete engine rebuild to your specs, no matter what brand. Dougan's Engine & Machine 9072 Limonite Ave, Riverside, CA 92509 (951) 681-1961
It was in LA off of la cienega near Washington. There’s a target near there. It’s no longer in biz. Forgot the name. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Late response. But, I took the motor to Bobs machine shop. I think the city was La crescenta. Cost $4000 to rebuild. Bob gave me higher compression pistons. As he said. Mine that I had didn’t have a lot of power. Put a new regular cam. Valves on the heads were a little loose. The plug in the back for the cam was backwards!! Tore down the whole motor. Painted it and put it all back together. Plus, I needed a new crank! Mine got rusted. So, he put in a nice used one. Bob and staff were really helpful. Got the tranny on. (C-6, which I rebuilt in my transmission class.) now just waiting to plop it in. Just bought a new wiring new harness. Waiting for it in the mail. Got new fuel and brake lines,new gas tank. Still need a new radiator, water pump, and some odds and ends to start her up. But getting sooooo close. Have had the car for like 15 years. And started the restore like 6 or 7 years ago. Finally getting close on at least getting it running. Just need her to run!!! Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Read up on Fram oil filters, not exactly the best filter choice in the world. Otherwise the engine looks great!
^^^^ Why do people continue to buy these things?!?!? If I look at an supposedly "good running" engine to buy and it has one I walk away. SPark
I remember hearing about them! I will change it pronto!! [emoji16] Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Wix. I've cut them open. Fram and Wix. Fram was comical, poorly 'sprung' inside, filter looked like it came thru a paper shredder. "Acme" came to mind. Coyote engineering. Wix was 'engineered'. Made sense.
It gets worse with Fram filters. They make up one that is sold to places like Walmart, it has a slightly different part number. I put one on my old Chevy wagon, the engine never had a knock on start up until I put a Fram oil filter on it.
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