I’m working through some brake issues... and this may be my culprit eventually... Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
see the part number? that's an instant giveaway if you take a few minutes to learn how Ford part numbers work.
Yup, Ford. Code looks like D0**, so most likely late '70 model, but more likely a '71. Also Ford will keep the same code until updated, so it may have been found on a later model. Ford used this style of combination valve into the '00s What seems to be the brake issue?
Judging from where the lines are coming/going, it appears to be plumbed wrong. This picture is for front disk/rear drum, so it has a metering valve in the front, proportioning in the rear. The direction of flow/pressure makes a difference. The electrical connection is for the brake warning light. Shows if there is a difference in pressure between front and rear when you push the pedal. Pretty much useless, as you'll know there is a problem before the light comes on.
I never did figure out how Ford part numbers worked. The middle number identifies what kind of part in is then the prefix and suffix supposedly identify the exact part/version. We had 8 Louisville trucks so we kept some parts in stock that were common problems that we had to get from Ford. Window regulators, heater cores, drag links etc When we used the part, we ordered another using the part number. The drag link was 18 inches long with no grease fittings. We had replaced several and ordered replacements with the part number. The fourth one we got was 4 feet long. We figured somebody got the number wrong but it was exactly the same number that was stamped into the 18 inch long one as on the 4 foot long one. The dealer finally figured out that Ford had changed the number and used the previous number on another part.
I saw this pic earlier today too, and was thinking the same thing. I’ll have to climb under again to make sure.... although I have also read between 70-73 these were oriented several differs ways with a few different brackets Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Keep in mind that the number stamped on parts is the "engineering number", it's not the actual part number. So you have to use the parts book to look up the part, if you want to order the correct part! But the engineering number is great for getting an approximate application. D0AP for example, means 1970 Full size car Powertrain....D is the decade, 0 is the year the part was first used, the letters for the different carlines are easy to look up, and the section of the car should be kind of obvious. Each part also has a 5 digit number that specifies what particular part it is, then you will find letter suffixes to identify specific applications. GM part numbers are random. Mopar part number were assigned in sequence, so you can guess the first year use of a part from the beginning of the number....28xxxxx numbers were used on 1970 model year cars, mostly, for example.
It may work right when plumbed right, clean it out, reroute the lines and see if it works. There are only a few parts inside with a couple o-ring seals.
Thanks thus far... the whole discussion got started in a separate thread quoted below(if I did it right).... What do you guys think the symptoms would be plumbed backwards... I was thinking it just wouldn’t let any liquid through.... but I’m experiencing a rear brake over heating issue... almost if it always has a mechanical/hydro drag Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
After looking at the ‘stock photo’ the entry point for brake fliud into distribution block is closer to the rear of the unit... just as mine is plumbed HRP... can you confirm Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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