Help needed figuring out volumn

Roadstar helped me build this breakfast bar in my almost completed hot rod kitchen. The top of said "bar" is black and white tile with an area left in the middle for car memorabilia. After placing all the memorablia in the cutout I want to fill it in with a two part epoxy resin bringing the top flush with the tile. The area in question is
56 inches by 17 inches and is 3/4 inch deep.

The package gives me square footage coverage but doesn't state how deep this coverage is. I was good at math but over the years my brain has turned to mush. Anyone have any idea on how many ounces I'll need to fill this space?

I'm close to posting photos of the whole kitchen soon.

 

a pint's a pound, the world round.

Actually, there are 128 fluid ounces in a gallon, and there are also 231 cubic inches in a gallon, so there's probably about 3.09 gallons, or roughly 400 fluid ounces, needed to fill that volume.

Another way to figure it out would be to see how much water it takes to fill it up, using maybe a measuring cup, which should be calibrated in ounces.

 

You have 714 cubic inches which turns out to be 395.6 fluid oz. if I did the math right. Looks like squirrel beat me to it though.

 

great minds think alike, eh?

 

Use them fancy measuring cups you make cookies with to find the displacement of the "memorabilia" you want to bury under epoxy. How much water do they displace when you drop them all into 3 cups of water (or whatever works)?

Subtract that from the 714 cubic inches of empty space in the cut-out and you should be close enough for jazz.

Just a thought... there's probably a smarter way.

 

Thanks guys! Very much appreciated. I knew I could count on the HAMB for a quick answer.

I didn't think about the stuff inside taking up much space. I'll plan on 400 ozs knowing I'll have alittle left over. Better too much then not enough.

 

I'm not impugning RoadStar's workmanship here, but you want to be darn sure everythings level.

A dry? run with water could tell you precisely where you're at far as level is concerned.
Provided things are sealed off so there wouldn't be any water damage and if not, a thin layer of sheet plastic to protect the woodwork would do it.

Watch out for bubbles.

Welcome back to the ranks of the well....

 

Jay, Roadstar's pretty much a prefectionist when it comes to stuff like this. Just like the cars he builds, attention to detail is normal for him. The "bar" is so level the little bubble inside the level has a level in it.

Here is my idea for minimizing air bubbles. After mixing the two part epoxy in the bucket I'll pound the bucket on the floor forcing the bubbles to the top. Once completed I'll make sure I pour the mixture out real slow. How's that sound?? Any other ideas or hints??

On another subject, did you get an email from my Dad awhile ago regarding some car friends of his (the Earlys) that moved to Kingman from CA?? Just wondering if you made contact with them. Both the husband and wife are into cl***ic cars and are a wonderful couple to get to know.

 

That is actually a real good idea JAy. The floor is probably not perfectly level and the table top may not be perfectly level and it will be crutial that it be for what she has in mind. I have screws holding the countertop to the base cabinets so I could unscrew it and make sure it is perfectly level at least for the "Pour"

Thanks for the input or is the impune

 

Are you using Envirotex Polymer ?
It needs to be mixed VERY well.
If you think you are stirring too much,that's almost enough.
If you see little tiny bubbles floatig in the air,your doing it right.

Double check the maximum thickness in the instructions,
you may have to pour it in two layers.

And follow the instructions about using a Propane Torch to get rid of bubbles.
Works MUCH better than any other method.

I've used this stuff for some of my panels,
works quite well IF you get everything right.

A test piece is a good idea.

 

http://www.onlineconversion.com/

 

Sweetheart, what about all the leveling you did when you installed the cabinets?? I didn't buy that bag of shims just to look at. I double checked it and it's completely level.

 

Yes, that is exactly the brand I was looking at at Micheal's. The largest packages they had were like 32 oz. and it was $25.00 I thought it was alittle steep so I p***ed. Any idea where I could get said product at a better price??

Thanks for the hints. I'm sure they will come in handy. The torch thing I'm not so sure about but maybe Rudy will help/

 

I figured he'd have it pretty level, thought I'd point it out.
I just hate it when the resin pours over the front before the back side is full....

My experience with table tops full of resin is limited to seeing the end result of what a friend did with polyester resin as well as repairing my sailboat when I crashed into a dock with it.
Long story short, I tried to back into a dock under sail and my talents and sailing knowledge weren't what they should have been at the time.
Got pretty good at backing out of the dock under sail though....

Just gotta choose the right dock....


I did get the email, it got dumped in an MSN screw-up that was my fault.
I'm pretty sure you have my other email address so if you or your dad could send the contact info again - to the Frontier addy - I'd appreciate it.

I would have called them a while back to invite them for the Saturday morning donut run, but I've been busy with my daughter's cotton picking - insert appropriate bad words here - mechanical fuel injected V-Dub Rabbit as well as digging a ditch and running a water line to the back of the garage so I can wash cars without doing the three hose lalapalooza....

Only had two leaks and still have to re-engineer one part.
Should have used galvanized instead of PCV for the faucet bib.

Lalapalooza is Michiganese for dancing under the influence of beer, right?


Did I mention building a bunch of new screens for the house?
Geez . . . pita city....

 

I think they have their instructions on their site.
http://www.eti-usa.com/consum/envtex/envlite.htm

You could try a serious industrial fiberglas supplier,
they should have the same stuff.
Some call it Table Top Finish,or Bar Top Finish,or similar.
Same stuff,it's a variation on the resins used for Fiberglas work.

The stuff gets mixed 50/50,and stirred REAL well.
Por it on,spread it out,let it sit for a few minutes,
then start with the propane torch.

Michaels frequently has a 40% or 50% off coupon in their weekly fliers.
That's when I buy mine. Screw paying their retail prices.


There are other similar products available with UV protection,
this stuff will turn yellow if it gets a lot of direct sunlight.

 

Yikes, this breakfast bar is right underneath a huge window that faces due west. About 2 hours of direct sunlite a day. I'll certainly ask for a product that has UV protection. Thanks!

 

Search online for Bar Top Finish,etc
to find a product with built in UV protection.

Of course it will be more money,and harder to get.

 

You should mix in a tiny little bit of METALFLAKE.....

 

Thats a great idea....and I have a close buddy with silver flake that lives about a mile away.

Since this has YOUR attention, I'm about 5 plates away from hanging KS

 

Your plate will go out in the mail tomorrow.

 

THANKS Frank! Much appreciated.
I tried to call you around noonish on Saturday, thinking perhaps you were at the show but had a minute or two to talk. Something you said on Friday has kinda been bothering me. I need to ask you something. I'll try you tomorrow around noonish on your home phone. xoxoxo

 

Metalflake,and/or Pearl Powder,will work.

And because there are no solvents,you can use
the cheap glitter/flake that normally disolves in automotive clear.

You can pour some,then add the flake,
so some areas will be clear,others will have flake.

 

Well then I better get that thing in the mail...

 

So, if my memory of the alphabet is correct, Indiana should be on the wall of fame already!

Sweet.

 

Back to kindergarden for you bud.
Kansas is just two away from Indiana and I mentioned I was about 5 away from Kansas which basicly boils down to I'm stuck at Hawaii.

There is one HAMB guy from Hawaii, Evilgenis who I'm pals with but he didn't have one so I'm kinda stuck cuz I can't think of any other HAMB members that I could ask. What I'll probley do is put a spacer up, continue on, and then put a post up with the handful that I'm missing in a couple of weeks. The whole thing looks really very cool so far.

I wish you were coming to BilletProof so you could see it in person. I think a roadtrip to Detroit for the weekend is going be in order for you and the boys. Perhaps at the end of June???

 

you coul always cheat and do Ebay... I looked and there are a couple on there. They have pretty little rainbows on them to keep the GMBs happy!

Still debating on it... I have the openhouse to contend with on Sunday... and a ****tail party on Saturday night that they want me here for. I'd like to drive out on Friday after work, do the show on Saturday morning and leave by 1 or so... I doubt it will happen but its nice to dream...

(btw, did you get the surprise I sent you? UPS says they delivered it to the 'back door.')

 

C9,
Details. Always the details. Most helpful reminding us about leveling. Since you live in Kingman, a little detail reminder. Laying pipe underground in Arizona is chancy if the pipe can corrode, like galvanized. Arizona soils are pretty active and like to eat anything steel. If the galvanized is even partially buried it WILL corrode. The zinc galvanizing is cut off when threaded and the bare steel is exposed. I specify either PVC or polyethylene sleeved copper for buried water pipe. You can get the polyethylene sleeving at any building supply place. They use it in new home construction for the copper under-slab piping. Blue for cold water and orange for hot water. Besides I can get non-leaking with soldered copper joints. The threaded joints in galvanized steel always has at least one or two leakers.

 

Hey Denise. I think there is a gal on here from Hawaii who is "looking for her father's T-bird". Look up that post. perhaps she could help?

Oh, how about a pic of the hot rod kitchen?

 

Here's another thought if you still want to check out your volume...rice. Dump uncooked, dry rice out of a measuring cup until it fills up to the level you want. There's your volume. It'll account for the volume of the depression minus the volume of your display pieces. Then scoop and vacuum it out.

 

The Rice idea works.

And don't forget you will need GOOD ventilation while the polymer is curing.